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post #1 of 8 Old 09-23-2020, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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jointer

i am leaning to buy a jointer but there is so many reviews on them its hard to decide,,i was leaning to the benchtop type,,but for not much more you can get the ridgid one,,, even the grizzly that's not too bad in price,,im just a retired woodworker so an advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated,,and which do you thing would be the easiest to change knives,,the one with straight blades or the helical inserts,,,,thank you
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post #2 of 8 Old 09-24-2020, 10:08 AM
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I got a helical style thickness planer - I'll never go back to the straight blade stuff.
I have an old (inherited) jointer, and if I used it more often I'd be replacing the head....


the one downside to the helical design is you have to buy all new inserts when dull - there is no home sharpening (or pro, I know of)
most inserts rotate once - you get two edges per 'buy'
I recommend carbide inserts, if available. as a hobbyist, I don't have all day to be "fixing" tools
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post #3 of 8 Old 09-24-2020, 02:46 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Helical is great ... I guess

In 50 years I've had one, but everyone that does loces 'em. I've managed with a straight blade knife set, BUT I don't use a lot of figured grain stock, mostly straight grain. That's where the difference is according to most. If I were buying new, then pop for the extra convenience at a higher cost.

https://www.grizzly.com/products/Gri...RoCAf0QAvD_BwE

https://www.grizzly.com/products/Gri...terhead/G0452Z

The price difference is about $300.00 or more. If I were buying new again I would go for the 8" wide models, because it is a once in a lifetime purchase and bigger/wider is better. Table length is the other very important factor. A 6" jointer runs out of table pretty much after 30" or so. This is critical because the end of a curved piece drops off the edge causing a curve to be planed into it. The longer the table supports the outfeed end, the straighter your stock will be. Yes, you can make extensions for shorter tables and many woodworkers have:
https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=...h=717&dpr=1.25



The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 09-24-2020 at 02:55 PM.
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post #4 of 8 Old 09-24-2020, 03:41 PM
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I have the Grizzly G0452Z 6” jointer with helical head & 15” G0453Z planer with the helical head. I’m pleased with both.

The inserts are 4-sided, so they last quite awhile. And if one does get damaged it’s just a case of rotating it (a few minutes effort) and you’re back in business.

Rotating or replacing all the inserts is a bit tedious, but precise if you’ve got everything clean. No fussing with setup and adjustment.

Another advantage is that shavings are finer than with knives and are much less likely to clog your dust collector hose.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ron
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post #5 of 8 Old 09-24-2020, 08:33 PM
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It really depends on the type of work you’re doing.

If you’re building with wide boards, as in traditional or reproductive work, then a wide jointer is a good one to have.

If you’re mainly jointing edges a 6” is fine, but very limited for face jointing.

I have an 8” converted to helical 4 years ago I’ve still got one rotated if cutters. In that time I would have 6 sharpening of blades.

I think that’s a good choice if you have the space and 220v electrics.

Robert
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post #6 of 8 Old 09-26-2020, 01:45 AM
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I had a 8" Jet jointer/planer and ended up selling it as IMO it was useless. As a thickness planer it was too small and as a edge jointer I found the rockler tapering jig far easier and so much easier to use and the edge, with a good saw blade of course, was glue ready.
I face joint using a sled and shims to get a true flat face in my 13" Dewalt thickness planer then just flip the stock over and plane to desired thickness.

Bill F.
post #7 of 8 Old 09-26-2020, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
I had a 8" Jet jointer/planer and ended up selling it as IMO it was useless. As a thickness planer it was too small and as a edge jointer I found the rockler tapering jig far easier and so much easier to use and the edge, with a good saw blade of course, was glue ready.
I face joint using a sled and shims to get a true flat face in my 13" Dewalt thickness planer then just flip the stock over and plane to desired thickness.
I do the same as you with a planer and table saw. I am curious to know which "good saw blade(s)" you are using to get that glue ready edge?
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post #8 of 8 Old 09-27-2020, 12:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tool Agnostic View Post
I do the same as you with a planer and table saw. I am curious to know which "good saw blade(s)" you are using to get that glue ready edge?
Hey, how's it going? I have a SawStop so I tried their Titanium series and have been very happy with it. I bought a Chopmaster for my miter saw for a lot more money and if SawStop made a 12" blade would have a hard time picking which one to get.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bill F.
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