Installing full extension drawer slides - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 11-28-2014, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Installing full extension drawer slides

I am doing a kitchen upgrade (my own). I am running into a snag installing the new drawer boxes. My cabinet guy sold me tru trac full extension drawer slides. From what I've read on the internet these are entry level slides. I can't find any installation instructions. I have face frame cabinets. My question is how to orient the slides to the cabinet. Do the slides come out to flush with the face of the carcass? Are they recessed say an 1/8th of an inch or more? Can someone help me out? Thanks. Having done plenty of remodel work I'm pretty handy but this has me stumped.
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post #2 of 13 Old 11-28-2014, 10:24 PM
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I use the tru-trac guides, they are good slides. I make a wood bracket out of 1/2" plywood that goes between the faceframe and the nailer strip on the back of the cabinet. Then I mount the cabinet member to the bracket extending 11/16" past the bracket so that it recess's back 1/16" from the face. Then the drawer member I mound 5/16" up from the bottom of the drawer. I then mount the brackets in the cabinet to faceframe only. The back is left loose until the drawer is inserted. Then I adjust the drawer to where the front fits nice and then nail the back side of the brackets to the cabinet. Since yours are retro fit you might have to shem between the bracket and the divider.

If your dividers are flush with the drawer opening I would cut some sticks to fit between the floor of the cabinet and the drawer opening so you can screw them in level with the cabinet floor of the cabinet. Put a minimum amount of screws into them until you test the fit of the drawer.
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post #3 of 13 Old 11-28-2014, 10:49 PM
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The full extension slides mount exactly the same as the non-full extension. As Steve says, you have to add a spacer for face frame cabinets.

George
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post #4 of 13 Old 11-28-2014, 11:14 PM
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Here are a couple of pics of my kitchen cabinet build.
Steve said it well.
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post #5 of 13 Old 11-28-2014, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply. In the pic it looks like the slide does not butt up against or bottom out to the rear bracket and that there is a little bit of space there. I wasn't sure if it was OK to have a little room there. Steve's process sounds easy enough...I'll give it a whirl.
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post #6 of 13 Old 11-29-2014, 12:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Golfnrl View Post
Thanks for the reply. In the pic it looks like the slide does not butt up against or bottom out to the rear bracket and that there is a little bit of space there. I wasn't sure if it was OK to have a little room there. Steve's process sounds easy enough...I'll give it a whirl.
There is some wiggle room but the rear bracket holds the slide firmly. Btw, those slides are in a corner cabinet...28 inches long instead of 22 used in the other standard cabinets.
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post #7 of 13 Old 11-29-2014, 12:41 AM
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The bracket I use is made like this only there is one left and one right. I like it for installing drawers in the shop because they will hold the drawer up so you can stand behind the cabinet and adjust the drawer. Of course the bottom drawer the 1/2" block on the front has to be cut off flush with the bottom.
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post #8 of 13 Old 11-29-2014, 09:17 AM
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I like using the slip on rear brackets like you have pictured. The only downside is the cost. I can see a cabinet shop opting to make their own. I have a kreg jig that you clamp to the face frame and it holds the slide perpendicular to the front. I use it to get the front screw in then I check if the slide is level using a torpedo level with a magnetic base. If it is I zip screws in the back bracket. As for the drawer box I made a marking jig that registers against the bottom and allows me to mark a line through the center of the screw hole locations. I mount this piece about 3/16 back from the front.
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post #9 of 13 Old 11-29-2014, 11:39 AM
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When I installed the drawer slides, I used a several spacers like Steve's drawing. I would check the length of the spacer and adjust accordingly until I had the right spacing. The slide would sit on it until I could run in the screws.
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post #10 of 13 Old 11-30-2014, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ttharp View Post
I have a kreg jig that you clamp to the face frame and it holds the slide perpendicular to the front. I use it to get the front screw in then I check if the slide is level using a torpedo level with a magnetic base. If it is I zip screws in the back bracket. As for the drawer box I made a marking jig that registers against the bottom and allows me to mark a line through the center of the screw hole locations. I mount this piece about 3/16 back from the front.
The Kreg jig is handy...So, the slide piece that attaches to the drawer box needs to be set back a little bit from the back side of the drawer front? I set mine to butt up against the back side of the drawer front, Do I need to change that? Will that affect the operation of the slide?
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post #11 of 13 Old 11-30-2014, 10:22 AM
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Why not make a mock-up with the drawer slides so you can see first hand how the slides work.
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post #12 of 13 Old 11-30-2014, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Golfnrl View Post
The Kreg jig is handy...So, the slide piece that attaches to the drawer box needs to be set back a little bit from the back side of the drawer front? I set mine to butt up against the back side of the drawer front, Do I need to change that? Will that affect the operation of the slide?
I set my guide piece that attaches to the cabinet back about an 1/8 inch and the piece that attaches to the drawer tight to the front. This allows the front to fit tight to the cabinet before it bottoms out against the slide.

Do one thing at a time, do it well, then move on.
www.bigdaveswoodworks.com
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post #13 of 13 Old 11-30-2014, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave
I set my guide piece that attaches to the cabinet back about an 1/8 inch and the piece that attaches to the drawer tight to the front. This allows the front to fit tight to the cabinet before it bottoms out against the slide.
This is why I do it as well.
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