Ideas? Table Saw bog down w/ Stock blade on 3" Pine - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 04-20-2015, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Ideas? Table Saw bog down w/ Stock blade on 3" Pine

I was ripping some 3" thick 2x4's that I laminated up for some legs on the Table saw.

I have a New 1.75HP cabinet saw. I am not mentioning the brand because it shouldn't matter.

As I was resawing the work, there were about about 10 cuts to make. 3" is almost the full available cut height. The second variable is that the boards were not jointed, they could have been 1/32 or so out of square/binding. Not a lot, but maybe a tiny sliver of light between workpiece and fence.

Near the end, the circuit overload on the saw tripped, and I had to rest the saw to finish.

I am very cheap, and avoid buying things unless there is evidence it is important. How much blame would you place, and where?

1. Tough to rip 3" stock?
2. Not square stock caused binding?
3. Stock blade can't handle it?
4. 1.75HP not enough for 3" pine?

I'm leaning towards all of the above, but just curious of your thoughts.
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post #2 of 16 Old 04-20-2015, 02:23 PM
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Stock blade can't handle it. The stock blade is almost always crap, get yourself a good quality ripping blade and you shouldn't have a problem

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post #3 of 16 Old 04-20-2015, 02:24 PM
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obviously more power will forgive other issues.

Id put my money on number 2, possibly number 3.

you need to take the extra effort to make things easier on the saw in these cases, but it will do the job.
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post #4 of 16 Old 04-20-2015, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dovetails View Post

........
The second variable is that the boards were not jointed, they could have been 1/32 or so out of square/binding. Not a lot, but maybe a tiny sliver of light between workpiece and fence.



1. Tough to rip 3" stock?
Absolutely, especially without a 24 tooth rip blade on 3" stock, especially Pine, gums up overheats the blade ...doesn't cut well....

2. Not square stock caused binding?
Absolutely, any twist on a 3" cut will bind the blade.

3. Stock blade can't handle it?
Nope, but you didn't say what the "stock" blade was, so guessing it's not one of the better ones....?

4. 1.75HP not enough for 3" pine?
Probably not. Not all in one pass with the wrong blade as mentioned...

I'm leaning towards all of the above, but just curious of your thoughts.
^ those are my thoughts.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #5 of 16 Old 04-20-2015, 03:22 PM
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All of the above contributed, but the quickest thing to do is get a new blade. Your saw likely came with a full kerf 40 tooth combo blade of marginal quality.

Replacing it with a thin kerf, 24 tooth rip blade such as this will make all the difference in the world. Remember a thin kerf blade takes 30-50% less power to turn through the same piece of wood as a full kerf blade.

Also, ripping with a 40+ tooth blade of any quality isn't ideal.

Ideas? Table Saw bog down w/ Stock blade on 3&quot; Pine-imageuploadedbywood-working-talk1429554156.159451.jpg

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post #6 of 16 Old 04-20-2015, 03:28 PM
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A couple of suggestions; 1) 24 tooth rip blade, preferably thin kerf for that size saw and 2) Try in two passes...... set depth of cut to 2" +/-, run the first pass, flip stock end for end and run second pass.

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post #7 of 16 Old 04-20-2015, 05:00 PM
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I am guessing that you are running your saw on a 120 volt circuit. I have an old Delta model 10 contractor's saw and it often tripped the breaker or the motor reset when ripping, even with very good quality blades. I switched the wiring over to 240 volt and I've never had it happen since then.
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post #8 of 16 Old 04-20-2015, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all. I was just shocked when it happened. But I figured I knew the answer.

Appreciate your input.
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post #9 of 16 Old 04-21-2015, 09:58 AM
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I have to disagree with a thin kerf blade ripping 3" stock.Especially a sappy wood like pine.There is a good chance this will generate enough heat to warp the blade.It may work fine but your taking a chance especially if the saw is underpowered for this size stock.
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post #10 of 16 Old 04-21-2015, 01:28 PM
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Quality thin kerf blades are made to cut thick stock. I've never had a thin kerf blade warp. Just my personal experience with freud blades for close to 10 years.

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #11 of 16 Old 04-21-2015, 01:36 PM
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Can you cut half way through and then turn it over? This would require less hp. Cutting 3" is like resawing, on a bandsaw fewer teeth is better. It's the same on a table saw. I've had good luck ripping thick hardwood with a fiber cement blade. Having only 6 teeth makes the job go easier.
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post #12 of 16 Old 04-21-2015, 06:22 PM
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mmwood ; brought up the voltage issue.

If your running an extension cord ( like I have to to) make sure it's rated for heavy duty use.
Ideally with 12 gauge wiring.( 20 amp rating).
Excessive voltage drop will bump up the amps and trip breakers sooner.
I plan on converting to 240V soon , on the saw and planer anyways.
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post #13 of 16 Old 04-21-2015, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryan50hrl View Post
Quality thin kerf blades are made to cut thick stock. I've never had a thin kerf blade warp. Just my personal experience with freud blades for close to 10 years.
I quit using them about 15 years ago after warping a couple.This was on a 5 hp PM66.I always use high quality tooling and have them professionaly sharpened .It was a production furniture shop so may have been due to the continuos cutting that generated more heat.
Not really sure but they will warp if overheated.
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post #14 of 16 Old 04-22-2015, 08:55 AM
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I totally agree with the above recommendations to use a 24 tooth, thin blade, but would also recommend using a splitter, or riving knife, to prevent the wood from squeezing the rear of the blade.
If you are cutting unjointed, possibly "wet" 2x4s I would not suggest cutting half depth & then flipping the boadr as the uneven surface could/would cause additional binding. Keep in mind that when a blade is totally "buried" in the wood, clearing the chips is problematic. Typically the gullet of the blade should be slightly above the top of the wood being cut to help clear the chips.

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post #15 of 16 Old 04-22-2015, 10:05 AM
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make two passes or three

you are under powered

220v?
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post #16 of 16 Old 04-22-2015, 10:09 AM
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sometimes though, the cut will close around and pinch the blade. I would make two passes even with my 3 hp, 220v saw. it is just easier
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