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post #1 of 16 Old 09-27-2016, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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I need advice

I am building a hybrid piano by installing a digital keyboard into an old upright shell. I need to shave off about an 1/8" from each side (pointed to in photo 1) and want the resulting surface to be smooth so that I can glue the veneer that I just removed.
How would you suggest I do this?
Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 16 Old 09-27-2016, 06:51 PM
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I would sand it off. You could also use a handplane.
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post #3 of 16 Old 09-27-2016, 06:54 PM
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The only way I can see to accomplish this task without completely disassembling the piano would be to use a Japanese pull saw to remove the section needed to gain clearance, and then use a sander or planer to smooth the cut surface.
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post #4 of 16 Old 09-27-2016, 06:58 PM
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Chisel, or handsaw.

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OH, wait a minute ............Yep!.............That's what he said!

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post #5 of 16 Old 09-27-2016, 07:02 PM
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That's a difficult one. The part looks like it might be removable. It looks like the back end of it is screwed on and perhaps vertically it may be doweled. If you can remove screws from the back you might be able to saw it off and then trim it off and re-install it.

If that isn't an option you might trim as much off as possible with a small router. Then chisel off the rest with a wood carving gouge.
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post #6 of 16 Old 09-27-2016, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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It appears to be glued though I don't doubt there are dowels. I removed the veneer using a heat gun and putty knife. I don't think I could use the heat gun to remove the entire block. Proceeding with caution as I want to retain the integrity of the original construction. Man they built these things solid back in the day!
I'm thinking sanding.
Much obliged for the thoughts!
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post #7 of 16 Old 09-27-2016, 07:36 PM
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Hand plane could maybe work of you're good with it. Then a chisel for the bit that's not accessible with a hand plane. Though I agree that sanding is probably your best bet. Use a nice flat sanding block, or an 1/3 or 1/4 sheet electric sander. I wouldn't use a belt sander, for risk of gouging the surface.
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post #8 of 16 Old 09-27-2016, 07:53 PM
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If it is truly an antique piece, the glue used may be hide glue, which will release easily with a bit of moisture (as in from a spray bottle). It would be worth a shot, because it could easily be glued right back on after removal.
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post #9 of 16 Old 09-27-2016, 07:57 PM
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How about taking a little off of the unit you are installing into that space? The plastic case on it will probably sand easier than the piano.
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post #10 of 16 Old 09-27-2016, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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I'll check it out. Thanks
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post #11 of 16 Old 09-27-2016, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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Interesting thought but ..... nah.
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post #12 of 16 Old 09-27-2016, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geotech View Post
Interesting thought but ..... nah.
Then it's sanding, or carving...

Have fun!
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post #13 of 16 Old 09-27-2016, 10:53 PM
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Here is something I might try. I would take two strips of aluminum or thin wood and attach them to the blade of my Japanese pull saw. I would run the strips past the blade fore and aft and screw them together and I would VHB (Very High Bond) tape the strips along the blade. Thin 3M VHB tape has a grip of 90 oz. / sq. in. and it will stick.
I would attach them with 1/8" of blade showing, then make a series of cross cuts using the strips to stop the blade at 1/8", it wouldn't take long to saw 50 1/8" deep kerfs. Then I would chisel off the wood down to the bottom of the kerfs and sand (or scrape more likely) until smooth.
I would look at taking 1/4" off one side and leaving the other.
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post #14 of 16 Old 09-28-2016, 01:08 AM
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Good advise thus far so use what is most comfortable for you! Here is what I would do... saws and routers are good options to start your needed cut because they can be accurate, but you have physical obstructions preventing you from completing the finished cut... If you can, I would start the work with a router and be almost accurate. Take a proud 3/16th off with the router as far into the completed cut as possible. Finish that almost perfect with a good sharp chisel by sliding the flat back side of the chisel along the surface of the almost perfect (a bit proud) cut. Then use a flat metal file to sneak the final cut down to your desired perfect need. I always use this method for my MT joints.
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post #15 of 16 Old 09-28-2016, 03:16 AM
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I had this idea for an antique piano we had where all the linen pull backs for the keys had rotted. However, my wife said this would be desecration and in the end we had the piano restored at a cost of some $4,500. My son has custody now as we have downsized.
I think you are taking on a worthwhile task. So much better than the block keyboards. Let us see a pic or two when finished and maybe a sound bite.
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post #16 of 16 Old 09-28-2016, 08:46 AM
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Might cut like 3/8" off each side and use a hand saw to do it. Cutting more than the minimum would make using a hand saw easier.
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