I just used paste wax for the first time - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 11-21-2013, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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I just used paste wax for the first time

I am a changed man.

Wow. That's the finish I've been looking for all these years.

Any tips or tricks for applying paste wax over poly? Seemed pretty easy. The can said that "more advanced" users will let the wax sit for longer. Why do you need to be more advanced for this? Will this threaten the finish?

Thanks in advance, -SW
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post #2 of 16 Old 11-21-2013, 02:38 PM
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It is easy. Just be warned, now you have waxed the surface, you will not be able to fix any scratches in the finish with poly, since it will not adhere to the wax.

If you like the look of the wax, you likely could have achieved the same by buffing with a buffing wheel and Tripoli compound. This is what some woodturners do. The tripoli compound does not impact future finishes.

I normally just apply the wax then wipe off. Not sure what difference leaving the wax on for a period of time makes.

The wax will fade over time.
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post #3 of 16 Old 11-21-2013, 02:40 PM
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No damage to the finish. I usually let the wax "haze" before I buff. 2 coats buffing between each.
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post #4 of 16 Old 11-22-2013, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Paine View Post
It is easy. Just be warned, now you have waxed the surface, you will not be able to fix any scratches in the finish with poly, since it will not adhere to the wax.
Will rewaxing fix scratches and scuffs?
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post #5 of 16 Old 11-22-2013, 09:55 AM
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What kind of wax are you using? Just a standard carnuba car wax or like a furniture polish wax?
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post #6 of 16 Old 11-22-2013, 09:57 AM
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Did you rub out the finish first? I apply with steel wool on shellac finishes. Maybe you will want to try something other than poly now that you like the way wax looks.

Try this on things like bandsaw boxes. Wax and turpentine. Just wet a cotton cloth with the turp and scoop out some wax and rub it in.

Al

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post #7 of 16 Old 11-22-2013, 07:59 PM
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The most important thing to remember is let the poly dry for a month to six weeks before using wax on it. If you wax it too soon before the poly cures it may penetrate into the finish.
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post #8 of 16 Old 11-22-2013, 09:17 PM
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I don't use wax at all. It doesn't add any protection to speak of, and it's only a temporary enhancement if perceived as such. Using it will preclude doing any further finishing, unless totally removed, which is a PITA.






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post #9 of 16 Old 11-22-2013, 09:39 PM
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I make a lot of furniture, I nearly always finish with Minwax paste, it does dry to a fairly hard finish after a couple of weeks and is durable. This coffee table( tables) was made out of recycled Cedar fence boards and in four years has only ha one retreat net.
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If it doesn't feel safe, it probably isn't.
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post #10 of 16 Old 11-23-2013, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonycan
I make a lot of furniture, I nearly always finish with Minwax paste, it does dry to a fairly hard finish after a couple of weeks and is durable. This coffee table( tables) was made out of recycled Cedar fence boards and in four years has only ha one retreat net.
Nice. I almost always finish with Minwax. It does get hard. On my last table top I let it set too long without buffing and it was really difficult to buff out.

Al

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post #11 of 16 Old 11-23-2013, 12:32 AM
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I put the paste on and start finishing it straight away, I use old washroom towel, in three stages, polish till it slides easily,let it dry for about two days and then give it the same treatment . It works for me.

If it doesn't feel safe, it probably isn't.
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post #12 of 16 Old 11-25-2013, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, everyone. I'm using Myland's Traditional Wax (clear).

Looking forward to trying it over shellac. Seems like such a nicer finish than leaving it at poly. Will try applying it with turpentine/mineral spirits, too.
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post #13 of 16 Old 11-25-2013, 04:55 PM
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When I built my daughters chest of drawers I used wax on the frames the drawers slide on. I was amazed how slick the surface became. I'm just wondering how long it will last untill I have to rewax it. With the wood to wood friction I didn't figure it would last too long. I thought I'd let it go for about 6 months then pull the drawers out and check how slick it was.
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post #14 of 16 Old 11-25-2013, 06:14 PM
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I'll finish a couple of wood carvings this winter, all in yellow cedar. PacNW native carvers have used neutral/clear KIWI shoe wax polish. Think I'll try that. Or else a tin of Aerowax (never opened) which must date back to the days of Ghengis Kahn.
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post #15 of 16 Old 11-25-2013, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robson Valley
I'll finish a couple of wood carvings this winter, all in yellow cedar. PacNW native carvers have used neutral/clear KIWI shoe wax polish. Think I'll try that. Or else a tin of Aerowax (never opened) which must date back to the days of Ghengis Kahn.
I tried Kiwi after reading about it, still prefer Minwax and per volume Shoe Polish is really expensive. However to each his so good luck.

If it doesn't feel safe, it probably isn't.
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post #16 of 16 Old 11-26-2013, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Streamwinner
Thanks, everyone. I'm using Myland's Traditional Wax (clear).

Looking forward to trying it over shellac. Seems like such a nicer finish than leaving it at poly. Will try applying it with turpentine/mineral spirits, too.
Turp is different from mineral spirits. It will in fact add to the finish and doesn't all evaporate. It's better in a lot of ways. With other finishes it makes it flow and lay down better. It will increase the durability of the finish.

Al

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