I hate sanding - Page 3 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #41 of 55 Old 04-19-2015, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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I don't have that type of equipment unfortunately so I do all the prep with what I have (a 13" planer with sled). Even though I can get all the surfacing done at a shop, for some reason I feel I should do it all myself...maybe it makes it feel more like I did it all myself even though it isn't perfect. I also think I learn more.
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post #42 of 55 Old 04-19-2015, 10:11 AM
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Get yourself a belt sander. The best of the best is the Porter Cable locomotive sander. Sand all your flat work first with a belt sander and then use an orbital. Few people like sanding but using a belt sander once you get good with it will make the job go a lot faster which you would like.
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post #43 of 55 Old 04-19-2015, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by phoenixbound View Post
bald, do you LIKE using poly, or are you having to do so, for it's particular properities. I've used poly of course, but I abhor using it and instead use water bornes (such as Enduro) which dry faster, have great abrasion resistance (esp when you use their crosslinker!). Spraying poly horrible. LOL! stickiness everywhere if you don't have a water wall and massive industrial exhaust fans. For the hobbyiest such as myself, I just can't see the upside, but then again I'm an impatient type (long dry time and then there is the imbedded dust issue with that) , and don't like the fact poly is the worst when it comes to repairs. As you can see, poly ain't my fav finish. LOL!!!!
I used the water poly twice, was not really happy with the result. Maybe if I used it more, who knows.
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post #44 of 55 Old 04-19-2015, 10:10 PM
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Which water poly do you use? The stuff I've used works really well.

The tools don't make the craftsman....
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post #45 of 55 Old 04-19-2015, 10:28 PM
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The last I used with a little 8oz Minwax Polycrylic to try it out. Threw out what didn't go on the scrap wood I was trying it on.
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post #46 of 55 Old 04-20-2015, 02:34 PM
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The last I used with a little 8oz Minwax Polycrylic to try it out. Threw out what didn't go on the scrap wood I was trying it on.
Hey Steve:

What didn't you like about it? Can you be more specific? How did you prepare the surface?

I have used the Minwax Polycrylic Protective Finish on many projects. It is pretty easy to put on, but it can also look terrible when the surface is not prepped correctly or too few coats are added. I usually apply at least six (6) coats with light sanding in between with a Scotch Brite scratch pad. The more coats I put on the smoother the surface. I prefer the semi-gloss sheen. Clean up is a breeze with water.

I have started using Shellac (Bulls Eye brand). I have found that the application technique for Shellac is more important than with the Poly. The drips are harder to see and it must be applied with very light coats. Flat horizontal surfaces are easy with Shellac, but horizontal surfaces next to a vertical surface can easily collect too much shellac and then have to be redone. A minimum of two (2) coats is required to have a smooth finished surface. A Scotch Brite scratch pad for roughing between coats works great.

Eric
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post #47 of 55 Old 04-20-2015, 02:50 PM
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my least favorite thing to do. confined in a basement with no ventilation or respirator or dust collector........all 3 shall change soon
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post #48 of 55 Old 04-20-2015, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ORBlackFZ1 View Post
Hey Steve:

What didn't you like about it? Can you be more specific? How did you prepare the surface?

I have used the Minwax Polycrylic Protective Finish on many projects. It is pretty easy to put on, but it can also look terrible when the surface is not prepped correctly or too few coats are added. I usually apply at least six (6) coats with light sanding in between with a Scotch Brite scratch pad. The more coats I put on the smoother the surface. I prefer the semi-gloss sheen. Clean up is a breeze with water.

I have started using Shellac (Bulls Eye brand). I have found that the application technique for Shellac is more important than with the Poly. The drips are harder to see and it must be applied with very light coats. Flat horizontal surfaces are easy with Shellac, but horizontal surfaces next to a vertical surface can easily collect too much shellac and then have to be redone. A minimum of two (2) coats is required to have a smooth finished surface. A Scotch Brite scratch pad for roughing between coats works great.

Eric
No matter how I sprayed it heavy or light it severely raised the grain. Then when it dried it seem to be nothing there. By the time I would have gotten 3 mils of finish on I think it would have taken a dozen coats. It certainly was a lot of work smoothing the grain down. I'm sure it would have done better with Zinsser Sealcoat first but if you do that you might as well use lacquer. I was looking for something non-flammable to use in customers homes.
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post #49 of 55 Old 04-21-2015, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
No matter how I sprayed it heavy or light it severely raised the grain. Then when it dried it seem to be nothing there. By the time I would have gotten 3 mils of finish on I think it would have taken a dozen coats. It certainly was a lot of work smoothing the grain down. I'm sure it would have done better with Zinsser Sealcoat first but if you do that you might as well use lacquer. I was looking for something non-flammable to use in customers homes.
Yeah, I can see that happening. I only use a brush to apply. I usually only put poly on plywood cabinets, but it has worked good on maple that I sanded to 150 grit. It usually takes six (6) coats to get a nice smooth surface. It works better when the surface is horizontal. I usually rotate vertical surfaces to horizontal to get a good coverage.

Applying poly is not a quick process. I wouldn't use it at a customer's site. Have you tried the Shellac yet? It is certainly quicker, if you can master the application technique. It would probably work real well with a sprayer, although I haven't tried it.

Last edited by ORBlackFZ1; 04-21-2015 at 02:50 PM. Reason: improper grammer
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post #50 of 55 Old 04-21-2015, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
The last I used with a little 8oz Minwax Polycrylic to try it out. Threw out what didn't go on the scrap wood I was trying it on.
Not my favorite, but I had to train a friend how to spray and that was the finish he chose. One coat, sand, another two coats with a light buff a few days later. About 2 hours between coats. We used a Devilbiss Finishline IV HVLP gun with a 1.5 nozzle and sprayed straight out of the can, no thinning.

The coats have to be thick, look terrible when they go on, but seem to level out once they dry.

Pure mathematics is, in it's way, the poetry of logical ideas. - Albert Einstein.
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post #51 of 55 Old 04-22-2015, 06:54 PM
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i hate sanding too. The stroke sander would be nice!
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post #52 of 55 Old 04-23-2015, 03:38 PM
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I don't know what you are all complaining about,imagine seven or eight weeks of this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzZudj4fasQ
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post #53 of 55 Old 04-24-2015, 10:41 AM
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Thumbs up

repeated post.

Last edited by BaldEagle2012; 04-24-2015 at 10:44 AM.
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post #54 of 55 Old 04-24-2015, 12:36 PM
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I don't know what you are all complaining about,imagine seven or eight weeks of this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzZudj4fasQ
Hey, it's a two part program, work on the boat and work on your abs at the same time. All that up and down will either make you or break you.
But no more complaining about sanding from me for awhile. At least until next time!
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post #55 of 55 Old 04-25-2015, 08:13 AM
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Hey, it's a two part program, work on the boat and work on your abs at the same time. All that up and down will either make you or break you.
But no more complaining about sanding from me for awhile. At least until next time!
That is not an ab workout, that is a shoulder workout. You could turn it into a leg workout, by squating instead.

Tact is for people not witty enough to be sarcastic.
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