A huge hole is broken into where i put screw - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 04-01-2013, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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A huge hole is broken into where i put screw

I smashed my computer desk and the opening where there is a small door collasped. Where the screws go, is a big hole so i cant screw it back in. What can i use to fill the hole, its pretty large.
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post #2 of 21 Old 04-01-2013, 06:09 PM
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Oh boy, flake board. My first choise would be to route the wood out and insert a piece of solid wood with wood glue. Using just filler, I would fill it with PC 7 epoxy. When you put the screw back be sure a pilot hole.
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post #3 of 21 Old 04-01-2013, 06:10 PM
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You will need something which can take a screw. You need the strongest two part epoxy you can find to fill the hole.

If the epoxy does not hold the screw, you may also need to drill out to glue a dowel for the screw.
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post #4 of 21 Old 04-01-2013, 06:47 PM
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I had to fix an entertainment center once that was made out of that stuff. Guy claimed it fell off a trailer while he was moving.
I routed out all those broken areas and inlayed 1/2" plywood. Once filled and repainted it didn't come out half bad. Tricky part was getting all the assembly holes in the right spot. On some I just had to guess about from the mating parts.

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post #5 of 21 Old 04-01-2013, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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How do you route it? Sorry I don't know a single thing about wood.
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post #6 of 21 Old 04-01-2013, 07:04 PM
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You gonna fix this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by yeung107 View Post
How do you route it? Sorry I don't know a single thing about wood.
In order for you to fix this you'll need a sharp knife or chisel, a sanding block, a small drill, some tape and some 2 part Epoxy.
http://www.harborfreight.com/super-s...oxy-92665.html



Build a "dam" around the broken part using the tape so the epoxy won't run all over the place.
Mix up both of the small tubes together very well and pour it around in the opening.
Let is set up about 1/2 hour, then chisel off the extra and sand it flush, drill a new hole, then paint it

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 04-01-2013 at 07:07 PM.
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post #7 of 21 Old 04-01-2013, 07:14 PM
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On that, I would use PC-7. That stuff does not run, is good for filling holes, and it hardens rock-hard. PC-7 is a dark grey when it cures. They also make a similar product that is for wood and is a lightish brown after curing. You can sand and paint it too.
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post #8 of 21 Old 04-01-2013, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yeung107 View Post
How do you route it? Sorry I don't know a single thing about wood.
I just put guide strips around the affected area, used a router with a guide bushing and set to a depth equal to the plywood I was using for the repair. Just routed out a nice, flat bottomed area and cut a piece of plywood to fit.
Fairly quick and effective way to make the repair but if you're not familiar with using a router you may want to try one of the alternatives. It's not a job I would recommend as a router training exercise.

John

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post #9 of 21 Old 04-01-2013, 11:58 PM
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Quote:
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How do you route it? Sorry I don't know a single thing about wood.
It would be easier if you had a small router like a laminate trimmer. Anyway just use a 1/4" straight cut bit and route a area about 1"x1" and about 1/2" deep. Then cut a piece of wood the size and shape of the hole and glue in with wood glue.

A more precise method would be to make a pattern (piece of plywood with a square hole cut in it) and use a template guide on the base of the router. It would make a more uniform cut so the plug would be easier to make.

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post #10 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 12:22 AM
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If it were me I would chop out a bit of the PB where the screws will go. Then I would use west system epoxy and pour it in there. Where the screws go, and where I chopped out the extra wood I would put a pc of solid wood there. When the epoxy dries it will have captured the wood and made the area flat. Sand it smooth, paint it and then you can drill your pilot holes for your screws into the pc of wood that is trapped in the epoxy. Use something hard like Oak or Maple.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
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post #11 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 01:22 AM
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finesse
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post #12 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 10:19 AM
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Do you have a friend that knows any thing about wood or wood working? How about a friend that does repairs around the house? Do you own a drill?

I get a feeling from your post that this repair may not be in your experience level.

George
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post #13 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 12:03 PM
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Or this stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/Donald-Durham-Co-00004-Durhams/dp/B000LNS2LU/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1364908435&sr=1-6&keywords=wood+putty
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post #14 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Curl View Post
Do you really think that would hold up to the screw pull?

George
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post #15 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Curl View Post

This stuff is Gypsum based, like drywall. It would NOT hold up to the pressure of the screw threads cutting into it and pulling out.

Fabian

I used to be fairly indecisive, but now....... I'm not so sure.
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post #16 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 03:44 PM
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use a metal flat/fender washer

When pouring the epoxy, place a large diameter flat washer right over the hole for the screw and below the surface of the surrounding wood. That will make a reinforced area strong enough to resist the screw pulling through..... make sure the hole in the flat washer/fender washer is small enough to not allow the screw head to pull through it.


LOTS OF ADVICE HERE...SO FAR.... NO RESPONSE....

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #17 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegrgyle View Post
This stuff is Gypsum based, like drywall. It would NOT hold up to the pressure of the screw threads cutting into it and pulling out.
Good enough. I stand behind my original suggestion of PC-7 though.

Cheers.
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post #18 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 08:13 PM
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I'd blow the loose crap out and fill it with epoxy. Tape the edges to keep it from flowing out of the crater.

Hey~!!! It's a hobby~!! It's not supposed to make sense.
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post #19 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 09:56 PM
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looks like the OP isn't following this ... sigh. i'm out too.
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post #20 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Curl
looks like the OP isn't following this ... sigh. i'm out too.
Consider: no "Hello from...", no introduction, just a question. At the risk of making a sweeping generalization, I have to say I believe I've heard this one before....
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