How to rip straight (square) from an uneven piece - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 06-30-2018, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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How to rip straight (square) from an uneven piece

NEWBIE QUESTION: If you have 2x8 plywood piece, but both long edges are uneven, how do you “true up” both edges?

If I rip against a fence, the cut would follow the uneven edge - right?
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post #2 of 14 Old 06-30-2018, 10:56 PM
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You might use a homemade jig like this to true the sheet up. Then you could finish cutting it on the table saw.
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post #3 of 14 Old 06-30-2018, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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You might use a homemade jig like this to true the sheet up. Then you could finish cutting it on the table saw.
Thank you Steve.

Im going to try your suggestion. Part of the problem is that it’s 1/4” ply and quite floppy. Hopefully it can take the weight of the circular saw.
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post #4 of 14 Old 06-30-2018, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Microscopes View Post
Thank you Steve.

Im going to try your suggestion. Part of the problem is that it’s 1/4” ply and quite floppy. Hopefully it can take the weight of the circular saw.
You might lay it on a bench with just the part you are cutting off or lay it on saw horses with a sheet of thicker plywood under it.
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post #5 of 14 Old 06-30-2018, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Microscopes View Post
Thank you Steve.

Im going to try your suggestion. Part of the problem is that it’s 1/4” ply and quite floppy. Hopefully it can take the weight of the circular saw.
The 1/4" shouldn't be a problem. It's sandwiched between the 3/4" guide board (attached to the guide board) and the material you're cutting, just there as a guide to index to your marks on the substrate, so it's not under any stress. If your'e referring to the substrate you're cutting as 1/4", just place another board under the 1/4" ply held back enough so the saw blade clears it.

Last edited by pro70z28; 07-01-2018 at 12:04 AM.
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post #6 of 14 Old 07-01-2018, 12:22 AM
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Steve how is it that your post wasn't there when I posted, but your post is there now? I've noticed that has happened several times before on other threads also. I usually have to leave the site, then when I return, poof there it is. Just one of those trivial things I ponder late at night.


Now back to the subject at hand.
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post #7 of 14 Old 07-01-2018, 06:35 AM
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Out of stock right now, but there is this: http://www.rockler.com/e-z-jointer-clamp-kit

Or you could make your own.
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post #8 of 14 Old 07-01-2018, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Microscopes View Post
Thank you Steve.

Im going to try your suggestion. Part of the problem is that it’s 1/4” ply and quite floppy. Hopefully it can take the weight of the circular saw.
I got a piece of pink foam insulation that I lay down and put the ply on that.

https://www.homedepot.com/s/foam%252...0sheets?NCNI-5
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Don in Murfreesboro, TN.
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post #9 of 14 Old 07-01-2018, 01:59 PM
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My knees are too old to get down on the floor so I made one of these to sit on a couple sawhorses:

http://sawdustmaking.com/Sheet%20Rack/rack.htm

“Everything we hear is an opinion, not a fact. Everything we see is a perspective, not the truth.”
― Marcus Aurelius
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post #10 of 14 Old 07-02-2018, 05:06 PM
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I use a straight edge and a straight router bit. Get one side straight then you can run it through the saw.

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post #11 of 14 Old 07-02-2018, 09:32 PM
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If you have a long board with a straight edge, then you can attach your irregular board to it so that it hangs over the edge of your straight board. Put the straight board's edge against the rip fence on your table saw, and let your board hang over the edge far enough that the blade will cut the edge that you need on your board. After that, put your "helper" straight board away. Flip your board so that the new straight edge is against the fence, and trim the other edge straight.

How can you attach your board to the straight board?

* Clamp it from the top. One drawback is that it leaves screw holes in your "helper" straight board for the clamps.
* Use double stick tape. You risk a dangerous kickback if your board is not securely fastened. It may be hard to separate the boards if you use enough tape.

In case it matters, I use tape and featherboards.
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post #12 of 14 Old 07-02-2018, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Tool Agnostic View Post
If you have a long board with a straight edge, then you can attach your irregular board to it so that it hangs over the edge of your straight board. Put the straight board's edge against the rip fence on your table saw, and let your board hang over the edge far enough that the blade will cut the edge that you need on your board. After that, put your "helper" straight board away. Flip your board so that the new straight edge is against the fence, and trim the other edge straight.

How can you attach your board to the straight board?

* Clamp it from the top. One drawback is that it leaves screw holes in your "helper" straight board for the clamps.
* Use double stick tape. You risk a dangerous kickback if your board is not securely fastened. It may be hard to separate the boards if you use enough tape.

In case it matters, I use tape and featherboards.
No insult intended but that's why I've found a router much easier. I can get a solid clamp on everything. Pretty fast setup too. I'm also only running a portable table saw too so stability is much better across my sawhorses.

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post #13 of 14 Old 07-03-2018, 10:01 AM
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I've used this for years to get a straight / square edge, back when I used a lot of redwood & cedar to glue up CNC sign blanks. I used a 1/2" router bit to straighten & clean up the edges.
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post #14 of 14 Old 07-03-2018, 09:39 PM
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There are plenty of ways to do this but the method I use is to use a square on one end and get a straight line. Then use a circular saw with a straight edge guide to square it off.

This method works well and is very simple so long as things aren't way out of square and grain isn't an issue. If the aforementioned is an issue then I will normally pick two points inline with the grain as close to the edge as possible and then use the same technique mentioned above to cut.
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