How to rescue my rusted tablesaw top? - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 28 Old 03-29-2014, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnie52
WD 40 is an oil and when left on a surface, it can become a greasy mess if applied too heavily. T9 works well, but again becomes a real mess over time when left on the surface for several days. Wax is not really my first choice any more either.

Ever since Cabinetman convinced me of the value of a product called Top Coat, that is all I use on the tops of my cast iron tables. I remove heavy rust first using a cup style wire brush and an angle grinder with mineral oil, then go after any remaining rust using mineral oil and a kitchen scotch-brite pad. Following a through wipe down with mineral spirits to remove any oil and blow drying with the air compressor, I apply 2 coats the top coat. The first coat I will buff to a nice smooth surface and the second I will just let remain on the surface without buffing until I'm ready to use the machine again.

Keeps all my cast iron surfaces rust free and slick as greased snot between uses.
Johnnie that's what I thought too. But it's just not the case. WD40 seems to dry out and soak in. I spray it on and let it sit for a few minutes then wipe it down. There's nothing left to mess up my work at all. I use it on my cast iron C clamps and it does a much better job than the top coat stuff.

I was persuaded to try it after Fine Woodworking published their findings.

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Here is a pic on a comparison I did using WD40 and the top coat spray.

Al

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post #22 of 28 Old 03-29-2014, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Al B Thayer View Post
Johnnie that's what I thought too. But it's just not the case. WD40 seems to dry out and soak in. I spray it on and let it sit for a few minutes then wipe it down. There's nothing left to mess up my work at all. I use it on my cast iron C clamps and it does a much better job than the top coat stuff.

I was persuaded to try it after Fine Woodworking published their findings.

Attachment 92008

Here is a pic on a comparison I did using WD40 and the top coat spray.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
so which one is which?

there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.
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post #23 of 28 Old 03-29-2014, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by toolguy1000

so which one is which?
The one that has no rust and looks brand new. I can't believe I answered this question.

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post #24 of 28 Old 03-29-2014, 09:20 AM
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the reason i asked was to confirm that top cote left the clamp on the left in the pictured condition. or is the clamp on the left a unit that was untreated by anything?

there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.
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post #25 of 28 Old 03-31-2014, 06:38 PM
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Nothing works as fast without damaging the underlying metal as a Scotchbrite disc on a die grinder. That's what restoration guys use for old rusty automotive carcasses. WD40 works well to penetrate/lubricate the process.

You can use the square pads by hand but if you have a grinder these things will save you an hour of tedious labor.

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post #26 of 28 Old 04-02-2014, 10:26 AM
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I just restored my Unisaw table which had been sitting outside for ten years. I used my Dual Action Sander with 120 grit, then my vibratory sander with 150. It came out beautifully and you can still see the original ground, swirl finish on the cast iron surface. after that, I wiped it down with Lacquer thinner until I no longer saw dirt and discoloration on my rag. then, in order to keep the surface smooth and wood sliding well with no residual residue, I used a silicone spray and wiped it down.

Am I asking for trouble with a silicone based product?

Chuck
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post #27 of 28 Old 04-02-2014, 10:55 AM
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I just restored my Unisaw table which had been sitting outside for ten years. I used my Dual Action Sander with 120 grit, then my vibratory sander with 150. It came out beautifully and you can still see the original ground, swirl finish on the cast iron surface. after that, I wiped it down with Lacquer thinner until I no longer saw dirt and discoloration on my rag. then, in order to keep the surface smooth and wood sliding well with no residual residue, I used a silicone spray and wiped it down.

Am I asking for trouble with a silicone based product?

Chuck
I've been doing a lot of searching on this site and others about getting the rust off and keeping it from coming back. I had bought a 6" ridgid jointer about 5 or so years ago when it went on clearance and I haven't used it much and it sat in an unheated garage so the table was severely neglected. This week I needed to use it so decided it was time to clean it up. I used my DA with 220 and also some scotch brite on my die grinder and some mineral spirits.

But in my searching I read that silicone is the WORST thing you can but on because it will contaminate the wood and cause fish eyes in the finish and is hard to get off. Some said once silicone is but on it can contaminate for life. Lots of paste wax fans and some that say that is bad also and to use top cote. Some good discussion on here about the chemicals if you search.

Thanks for your help
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post #28 of 28 Old 04-02-2014, 04:46 PM
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I've always heard that argument about silicone products and wood contamination. I do know that silicone can make it almost impossible to repair metal welds if it is present. I would think that if you are going to thoroughly sand the wood prior to finishing though that that would remove the contamination.
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