How many tooth blade for 3/4in mahagony? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 19 Old 01-22-2013, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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How many tooth blade for 3/4in mahagony?

How many tooth blade should I be using to cut 3/4in thick mahogany?
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post #2 of 19 Old 01-22-2013, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
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How many tooth blade should I be using to cut 3/4in thick mahogany?
What kind of blade?

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post #3 of 19 Old 01-22-2013, 11:43 AM
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table saw, band saw, jig saw, scroll saw, hand saw? ripping or crosscutting?
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post #4 of 19 Old 01-22-2013, 11:48 AM
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How many teeth you got?

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post #5 of 19 Old 01-22-2013, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry, table saw and ripping and crosscut both.
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post #6 of 19 Old 01-22-2013, 11:55 AM
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The type of wood is less of an issue, the real question is what kind of cut. If you are ripping the wood (reducing the width of the board), a tooth count of approx 24 is good. If you are crosscutting (reducing the length of the board), you want a higher tooth count such as 60 or higher will give you the best cut.
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post #7 of 19 Old 01-22-2013, 11:55 AM
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I use a 50 tooth

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post #8 of 19 Old 01-22-2013, 11:59 AM
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I presently have a 40 tooth blade in the saw, I think this is a Ridge Carbide Thin Kerf. I also have 40 tooth Forest WW II.

My saw came with a Delta 50 tooth. Not a bad blade, but I chipped a tooth so had to put one of the 40 tooth blades on.

3/4in mahogany is not difficult to cut.
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post #9 of 19 Old 01-22-2013, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I wasn't far off then. I have a dewalt 60 tooth thin kerf fine finish blade I'm using for now.
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post #10 of 19 Old 01-22-2013, 01:36 PM
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That blade will probably burn the wood if you use it to rip. If that is the only blade you have, go very slow and watch for burning/binding. If you have a Home Depot or Lowes close by, a decent rip blade can be had for less than $30.
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post #11 of 19 Old 01-22-2013, 02:05 PM
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Ok I wasn't far off then. I have a dewalt 60 tooth thin kerf fine finish blade I'm using for now.

You don't want a finish blade. Get a 50 tooth combination blade.

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post #12 of 19 Old 01-22-2013, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mdntrdr View Post
You don't want a finish blade. Get a 50 tooth combination blade.
This is your best advice!

There are two simple choices at Lowe's, Home Depot or Rockler.

Freud or Marples
Rockler has the Marples blade on sale for less than $40 this month. I use the Marples blades and they are superb blades at very reasonable prices.

Make sure that you get a true COMBINATION blade. The teeth are usually in groups of 5 and 8 or 10 groups per blade.

There will be a large gullet for a raker tooth (flat top) followed by 4 smaller gullets and each gullet for an (ATB) alternating top bevel tooth.

The advantage to a combination blade is that the blade will work well to almost any depth of cut as the large gullet helps to clear out all the saw dust from the cut. General purpose blades (All ATB Teeth) start to struggle when the depth of cut goes much above 3/4".

As for the number of teeth. If you expect to make a lot of cuts deeper than 1-1/2" go for the 40 tooth blade. For general around the shop, almost always in the saw type of blade, go for the 50 tooth blade. You will be happy with either.

Use the right tool for the job.

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post #13 of 19 Old 01-22-2013, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Rich, that information is helpful. For now all my rough boards have been cut on my miter saw which has a 40 tooth blade in it. Once its been planed down to 3/4 I cut it on my table saw. This due to the rough boards being 14-15' long.

I'll try to get over to Home Depot this week and pickup a 50 tooth Combo blade.
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post #14 of 19 Old 01-22-2013, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BKBuilds View Post
Thanks Rich, that information is helpful. For now all my rough boards have been cut on my miter saw which has a 40 tooth blade in it. Once its been planed down to 3/4 I cut it on my table saw. This due to the rough boards being 14-15' long.

I'll try to get over to Home Depot this week and pickup a 50 tooth Combo blade.
Actually, before I spent any money I'd turn it around and put the 60 tooth on the miter saw and 40 tooth on the table saw. Everything else being equal, ie saws aligned, blades sharp, etc., rip cuts will generally be better with fewer teeth and crosscuts better with more teeth. Knotscott has posted some excellant information on blade selection here in the past. I don't know if has been elevated to a sticky or not though. If it hasn't, it should be.

John

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post #15 of 19 Old 01-22-2013, 10:33 PM
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As stated, type of wood isn't important and you have good information already to help you decide on what kind of blade. If you want good accurate cuts, you need to follow more instructions as setting the blade height on your ts. If you crank up your blade all the way - as high as it goes - and try to cut a 3/4 inch board, you will have serious tear out because the blade will be exiting the wood at a sharp steep angle. If your blade is not high enough, it will be working too hard, heat up and cause burn marks. That's the basic rule. As for details, they can be controversial. I take my stock and lay it along side of the blade and I will lower or raise the blade until the bottom of the gulleys are even with the top of the wood. I get smooth cuts and the blade works the way it was designed too.

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post #16 of 19 Old 01-23-2013, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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Hmm... Ok. I've been raising the blade by putting the stock next to the blade and raise it till the teeth are fully over the wood at the top. You are saying it should be higher?
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post #17 of 19 Old 01-23-2013, 07:03 AM
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Ok I wasn't far off then. I have a dewalt 60 tooth thin kerf fine finish blade I'm using for now.
60T should be fine if it has a positive hook and is not one of their "Construction" blades, which aren't overly suitable for fine woodworking....their Precision Trim series is a better choice.
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post #18 of 19 Old 01-23-2013, 08:58 AM
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.......... I take my stock and lay it along side of the blade and I will lower or raise the blade until the bottom of the gulleys are even with the top of the wood. I get smooth cuts and the blade works the way it was designed too.
this is the same info re: blade height i've gotten from freud when i posed the same question to them. the gullets (gulleys above) are the valleys between the carbide teeth. as a freud rep explained it, they want the carbide tooth to shear the wood when it enters it, not chop it (this can happen if the blade is too high). with the gullet clearing the work piece, the sawdust can be ejected quickly so as not to interfere with the cut.

this article is also pretty informative

http://www.woodcraft.com/Articles/Ar...?articleid=691

there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.
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post #19 of 19 Old 01-23-2013, 11:54 PM
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BK - I stated the basic principle of "too high" vs "too low" and said the details beyond that are controversial. We woodworkers have different methods to achieve the same results and we can all be defensive about our methods. Many times it depends on what you've been taught, or in my case, what I've discovered since I'm a self taught wood worker. Being self taught leaves me open to different methods as folks discuss the issues. Tooolguy1000 might even be like me - seeking out information and testing out methods. Like he explained, the gulleys take out the saw dust and lets the blade do its' job the way it was designed. I bet Toolguy1000 even knows why some blades have fancy swirly cuts in them. They are not for design.

Its' never hot or cold in New Hampshire... its' always seasonal.
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