How Do You Plane Thin Stock Into Veneer? - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 29 Old 08-11-2012, 02:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicago View Post

I was just trying to thin down some walnut stock to adhere beneath my veener so that the birch ply would not show through the veneer pin holes. By attempting to use the planer I was hoping to dimension these sheets to a uniform thickness.
Can't you just laminate the walnut stock directly to the ply, then plane it to thickness? If you do all sides of the box at the same time, you can ensure that they are all exactly the same thickness.

After you do that, you can apply the burl veneer, cut to size, yada yada yada...

Just be sure to plane the walnut between resaws to give yourself a flat face to glue to the ply.
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post #22 of 29 Old 08-11-2012, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Pirate View Post
Just curious, how does the planer handle thicker walnut?
I had trouble planing walnut on my planer, and I think it was a sign of dull blades.
Walnut is basically a softwood although, technically, it is classified as a hardwood. Having said that, walnut should not cause any problems in your planer. However, it will dull blades like any other wood, but perhaps not as quickly as rock maple will.

Dull blades are never a good idea regardless of the machine or hand they are in.
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post #23 of 29 Old 08-11-2012, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Streamwinner View Post
Can't you just laminate the walnut stock directly to the ply, then plane it to thickness? If you do all sides of the box at the same time, you can ensure that they are all exactly the same thickness.
This may be a very workable solution.

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Originally Posted by Streamwinner View Post
Just be sure to plane the walnut between resaws to give yourself a flat face to glue to the ply.
I hear ya. Sounds to me like you've been there, done that.

Thanks for the great comments.
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post #24 of 29 Old 08-11-2012, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Quite accidentally. They were "off falls" from the primary saved piece, but I was impressed how thin they were, less than 1/16". They were a bit rough because of the blade set.
Yes, in spite of my personal amateurish wood working skills, it is indeed impressive how thin a finely tuned bandsaw can slice a board. I've attached a few photos of an 8"x17" walnut slice for your perusal.

I've also attached a drawing showing the actual thickness of the perimeter of this walnut slice. While wanting to achieve a thickness of 1/16" (0.0875"), the results were less than stellar. Since I have nothing to compare these results to, they may be in the 'ball park' (or not!) as these things go.

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Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Here's the big question for me...how big are the pieces and can they be resawn from a wide plank/board.
If they are 6" or 7" wide then I think you can probably do it. You bandsaw would have to be tuned perfectly and a fine set blade used rather than the typical 3 TPI resaw blade.
It would seem that if you glued them to a thin substrate like 1/8" plywood you could then plane the by hand to get a smooth surface or just just a ROS with progressively finer grits.
Without know the exact application, it's difficult to know the size, the joinery, the thickness etc. ..... bill
I've been using a Wood Slicer for these cuts, but that is going to change in the very near future. I have a few Timber Wolf 3/4" AS-S on order and which were reviewed here.

I've used Wood Slicer's for a number of years, but do so reluctantly. I think they are over-priced and do not hold their edge as well as one would expect after having paid a premium price of nearly double that of other comparable blades. In the past I have retuned several due to poor weld alignment. Having disclosed all of this, I am ready to move on to a different brand of band saw blades.

Hopefully, the Timber Wolf's will git 'er done for me. I have used TW blades in the past, but in narrower width's and not for the precision work I am now trying to achieve. I am very anxious to try these blades.

I recently returned some Olson blades that claimed a 0.025" thickness, but were 0.030" on average.

There are a lot of variables in this bandsaw slicing business and I have much to learn.
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post #25 of 29 Old 08-11-2012, 01:05 PM
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I think you are doin' great!

I do see the plank starting to cup away from the fence.... ?
If that's the case, I would alternate faces and plane the rough face in the planer or by hand. That can become your "finished" surface when that piece is the off fall. When I resaw I run the plank over the jointer, if it's not too wide, then make another resaw pass, but a planer would work also especially on wider boards.

Having said that your veneer looks really nice, a bit thinner than I thought also. The Woodslicer blades have a good reputation, but as you say at 2X the price I'm not buying. I use TW in a 3TPI, either 1/2" oe 3/4" from Grizzly. I also weld my own from 100 ft bulk rolls in 1/2" Starret blade stock, usually. I have a commercial welder and grind the flash off with a Dremel type tool. I have also sharpened my 3 TPI with the Dremel on the machine for a quick and productive tune up. Like this:

I finally found a use for the Roto-Zip tool I had, but never used. With an 1/8" collet it's got a 4.5 AMP motor, not easily slowed down....

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 08-12-2012 at 01:51 AM. Reason: spelling
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post #26 of 29 Old 08-12-2012, 12:36 AM Thread Starter
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Turning bad into good

Well, I've learned a lot today.

The Bad
I took the shroud off of the Hurricane Class Vac on my DW735 to see if this would keep from lifting my very thin walnut sheet into the blades and it did not work. See Exhibition Photo A below.

The Good
I then decided that the best bet was going to be to glue two pieces of thin walnut to the 1/4" birch ply and then run the walnut-birch ply combo through the planer. This worked just as expected. See the next two photos. The first shows the paper tape used to pull the walnut together and the next show the result after pass through the DW735.

The last photo is just to keep me honest. It shows the edge of the walnut-birch ply laminate.

So, all I can say is 'Not too shabby for a veneer rookie.' Now, all I have to do is do this a few thousand times more and I'll qualify for my first Veneer Badge. LOL

I sandwiched this together in my homemade veneer press which - to my astonishment, actually worked. Instead of carpet underlay, I used one of the semi-stiff foam pads meant to be walked on. They come is colors and lock together. I cut one of these to match my melamine veneer press and it worked. I think it is visible in the last photo.

If anyone sees any errors in my thinking, please let me know.
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post #27 of 29 Old 08-12-2012, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
I do see the plank starting to cup away from the fence.... ?
If that's the case I would alternated faces and planing the rough face in the planer or by hand. That can become your "finished" surface when that piece is the off fall. When I resaw I run the plank over the jopinter, if it's not too wide, then make another resaw pass, but a planer would work also especially on wider boards.

Having said that your veneer looks really nice, a bit thinner than I thought also. The Woodslicer blades have a good reputation, but as you say at 2X the price I'm not buying. I use TW in a 3TPI, either 1/2" oe 3/4" from Grizzly. I also weld my own from 100 ft bulk rolls in 1/2" Starret blade stock, usually. I have a commercial welder and grind the flash off with a Dremel type tool. I have also sharpened my 3 TPI with the Dremel on the machine for a quick and productive tune up.

I finally found a use for the Roto-Zip tool I had, but never used. With an 1/8" collet it's got a 4.5 AMP motor, not easily slowed down....
I had no idea it was possible to sharpen a dull band saw blade that easily. The blade in the video is held pretty stiffly. He must have some sort of rig to do that.

Thanks for the info.
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post #28 of 29 Old 08-12-2012, 12:55 AM
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no jig

I've done it that way myself:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/b...ing-diy-10872/


Quote:
Originally Posted by chicago View Post
I had no idea it was possible to sharpen a dull band saw blade that easily. The blade in the video is held pretty stiffly. He must have some sort of rig to do that.

Thanks for the info.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #29 of 29 Old 08-12-2012, 01:05 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Thanks for the link and the info.

I was wondering today if my chainsaw diamond bit and Dremel (emergency chain saw gear) would work for this and you just cleared that up.

Sweet!
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