How do I cut 1/8" x 2 inch maple into 1/2 inch pieces? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 24 Old 01-13-2013, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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How do I cut 1/8" x 2 inch maple into 1/2 inch pieces?

I am trying to cut a piece of maple (1/8 x 2" x 48") into half inch strips to be used for an inlay. Any thoughts? I tried a piece on the table saw and it was a disaster. How can I set up the table?

Other idea was to use a blade and score it a tad larger, break it off and then sand it to fit.

Other idea was to give up

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post #2 of 24 Old 01-13-2013, 02:59 PM
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Let me see if I am understanding the situation.

Are you wanting to cut the 2in wide x 4ft long dimension into 4 strips @ 7/16in wide x 4ft long?

I have done this on the table saw. I have a zero clearance insert.

I used the fence and pushed with a piece of plywood. Sacrificial push stick.

I set the blade to be a bit higher than 1/8in.

Can you provide more detail on what "it was a disaster" means?
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post #3 of 24 Old 01-13-2013, 03:01 PM
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1) i would use a sacrificial fence on my drop saw and a sharp blade. Screw a piece of MDF or timber right across your fence. Then cut through it. The gap will only be as big as your blade. I would cut your pieces on edge.

2) if you want to go the table saw you can do a similar thing. Lower your blade, clamp or fix a piece of MDF to the top of your saw carefully so it is very secure. Start the saw and wind the blade up till it has come through enough. Turn off the saw and screw or clamp a fence where you need it.

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post #4 of 24 Old 01-13-2013, 03:34 PM
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Yes should clarify if you are doing long rips or short cross cuts. My bad. Drop saw would be fine for small table saw for long.

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post #5 of 24 Old 01-13-2013, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveTTC View Post
Yes should clarify if you are doing long rips or short cross cuts. My bad. Drop saw would be fine for small table saw for long.

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long rips.
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post #6 of 24 Old 01-13-2013, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mengtian
long rips.
Option 2) from what I said would be the go then. I imagine your piece went down between the table and the blade and kinda blew up. The other thing that may help is not having the blade too high. Did the MDF table top make sense to you?

Of corse if you have a zero tolerance insert as the other Dave mentions then you don't need to do the whole MDF thing.

3) With such thin stock I have used a knife and straight edge and scored from both sides. This has worked well so long as you don't try to cut to deep with each pass.

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post #7 of 24 Old 01-13-2013, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveTTC View Post
Option 2) from what I said would be the go then. I imagine your piece went down between the table and the blade and kinda blew up. The other thing that may help is not having the blade too high. Did the MDF table top make sense to you?

Of corse if you have a zero tolerance insert as the other Dave mentions then you don't need to do the whole MDF thing.

With such thin stock I have used a knife and straight edge and scored from both sides. This has worked well so long as you don't try to cut to deep with each pass.

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It almost blew up LOL. It was riding up the blade and came out all jagged. Yes, the MDF makes sense except i don't have any. Would 1/4 " plywood work?

What about scoring it since it is so thin? It would be time consuming but accurate.
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post #8 of 24 Old 01-13-2013, 04:50 PM
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Do you have a bandsaw?
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post #9 of 24 Old 01-13-2013, 05:03 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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You tube has a few videos on thin strips

There are several but this one is the easiest:
Look at about 3:40 minutes in:


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #10 of 24 Old 01-13-2013, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Do you have a bandsaw?
Wish I did...that is what I would use.
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post #11 of 24 Old 01-13-2013, 05:39 PM
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If you want a full " width, you'll only get 3 out of 2" wide (width of the kerf). I would use a featherboard before and after the blade. I would run the blade higher than just above the stock. The featherboard could also have a top guide to hold down the stock. By all means, use a push stick or push shoe.





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post #12 of 24 Old 01-13-2013, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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If you want a full " width, you'll only get 3 out of 2" wide (width of the kerf). I would use a featherboard before and after the blade. I would run the blade higher than just above the stock. The featherboard could also have a top guide to hold down the stock. By all means, use a push stick or push shoe.





.
I could do the math LOL....I don't have any feather boards. Thought about making my own for now.


Thanks!
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post #13 of 24 Old 01-13-2013, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mengtian View Post
It almost blew up LOL. It was riding up the blade and came out all jagged.
I know what you mean. This means the back side of the blade was picking up the wood.

I have a featherboard I can install vertically on the fence.

Another option is to tape this to another piece of sacrificial wood.

I mentioned earlier you will only get 4 @ 7/16in widths if you are using a full kerf blade.
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post #14 of 24 Old 01-13-2013, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mengtian View Post
I could do the math LOL....I don't have any feather boards. Thought about making my own for now.


Thanks!
The best ones are the ones you make.





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post #15 of 24 Old 01-13-2013, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mengtian
It almost blew up LOL. It was riding up the blade and came out all jagged. Yes, the MDF makes sense except i don't have any. Would 1/4 " plywood work?

What about scoring it since it is so thin? It would be time consuming but accurate.
1/4" ply should be fine.

Scoring is should work, I should have put a 3 next to that to show it a separate option. There are menu times I have simply scored such material.

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post #16 of 24 Old 01-13-2013, 08:03 PM
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I would use my bandsaw, but if I didn't have one, I would use a knife and a metal straightedge for the long cuts, as Dave TTC suggested, and a razor saw for crosscuts or angle cuts.
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post #17 of 24 Old 01-14-2013, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone. I got my strips cut and they came out great. I went a tad over (1/32"). I figure it would fit nice as the inlay or I can sand it a bit to fit. I went with a zero clearance insert, 1'16th inch blade (go figure, it was on my circular saw which I hardly ever use! so it is now on my TS). I did not have any feather boards so I nailed in a piece of the wood with 1/8" clearance and used a piece of MDF that I used to "hold" the wood tight.
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post #18 of 24 Old 01-14-2013, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mengtian View Post
Thanks everyone. I got my strips cut and they came out great. I went a tad over (1/32"). I figure it would fit nice as the inlay or I can sand it a bit to fit. I went with a zero clearance insert, 1'16th inch blade (go figure, it was on my circular saw which I hardly ever use! so it is now on my TS). I did not have any feather boards so I nailed in a piece of the wood with 1/8" clearance and used a piece of MDF that I used to "hold" the wood tight.
Thanks for posting the successful conclusion to the thread.

Looks like a good piece of engineering and creativity to apply the concepts. Well done.
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post #19 of 24 Old 01-14-2013, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for posting the successful conclusion to the thread.

Looks like a good piece of engineering and creativity to apply the concepts. Well done.
While going through a Rockler catalog sitting on my thoughtful spot I started wondering why folks spend so much money on jigs and gadgets. I made a spline jig that works just fine, tenon jig, router circle jig. In part it is due to the fact it is a hobby and I don't feel like spending the money on store bought jigs but also I am finding out that the more I make jigs and such I am learning more about my tools and how to get things done.

Besides, why wait a week to get a jig in when you can make it out of scraps and get going with your project.

Almost forgot: Tablesaw and router box joint jig.
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post #20 of 24 Old 01-14-2013, 12:42 PM
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Besides, why wait a week to get a jig in when you can make it out of scraps and get going with your project.
You are I are able to build things based on a picture or idea. I have a few home built jigs.

I have a friend who comes over to help and spend some time "makin' sawdust" on some Saturdays. He struggles unless he has a plan, with cut list and detailed instructions.

I do not know what % of the forum members can/do work without plans, but I see a lot of threads where people are asking for plans, in some cases for items which to me seem very simple.

I have never purchased a plan.

So for some folks they buy because they cannot build. For others, they may buy because it is easier than building. Then there are folks like you and I who get a lot of satisfaction from building from scratch and solving the challenges along the way.
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