How to create this wood cross section? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 01-24-2013, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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How to create this wood cross section?

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...N#.UQHImR3C1pp

I am trying to create a 5"X8' casing piece with a cross-section similar (doesn't have to be precisely identical, just want the rounded flutes) to the one in this picture, but can't find the proper router bit.

How would this piece be done? Would I need a custom fab'd router bit or could someone post a link or two to let me know what I need to create this?

Thanks!
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post #2 of 18 Old 01-24-2013, 09:46 PM
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The link doesn't work....
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post #3 of 18 Old 01-24-2013, 10:26 PM
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Link OK for me in 15(?) yr old computer.
I suspect that was a stack of custom grinds in a milling machine.
Syncra Forest Products/McBride BC can crank that out.
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post #4 of 18 Old 01-24-2013, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beavoid View Post
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...N#.UQHImR3C1pp

I am trying to create a 5"X8' casing piece with a cross-section similar (doesn't have to be precisely identical, just want the rounded flutes) to the one in this picture, but can't find the proper router bit.

How would this piece be done? Would I need a custom fab'd router bit or could someone post a link or two to let me know what I need to create this?

Thanks!
Gods of microsoft in a strange mood tonite. Link worked earlier, now it doesn't and my first post disappeared

Could be done with a "point cutting roundover" like this one:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...nd over anchor

The stock would be face down on the table and the fence moved each pass.

Another option would be a multi-bead bit like found on this page
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...s/bt_bead.html

In this case the stock would be run on edge against the fence. I have only seen this type of bit available for routers with a max of 3 beads. You would need to run one pass and adjust the bit height to get additional beads.
Hope this helps

John

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post #5 of 18 Old 01-25-2013, 01:52 AM
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You can make the piece in 2 or 3 parts

Then you could use the multi-bead bit as john has posted and glue the parts together to form a wider section.
No Link for me either...
So just trying to picture it from what you described.
I'd prefer using the vertical bit myself, lots of feather boards.




OR you can rip various production moldings to reassemble to suit your profile:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cata...gry=Search+All


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 01-25-2013 at 01:58 AM.
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post #6 of 18 Old 01-25-2013, 02:25 AM Thread Starter
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http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UQIhYx3C1po

I need a cross section similar to this, except I need it on a 1"X5"X8'

Sorry about that link. I don't know what happened. I will check out the bits you guys mentioned. Thanks!

Also, which tool would you guys recommend? 1 pass or multipass?

WIll this one work well, or is it a crappy cheapo? http://www.amazon.com/Magnate-Point-Cutting-Roundover-Router/dp/B00063FYNY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1359089267&sr=8-1&keywords=pointed+roundover+bit
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post #7 of 18 Old 01-25-2013, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beavoid View Post
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UQIhYx3C1po

I need a cross section similar to this, except I need it on a 1"X5"X8'

Sorry about that link. I don't know what happened. I will check out the bits you guys mentioned. Thanks!

Also, which tool would you guys recommend? 1 pass or multipass?

WIll this one work well, or is it a crappy cheapo? Amazon.com: Magnate 7506 Point Cutting Roundover Router Bit - 3/8" Radius; 1/4" Shank Diameter: Home Improvement
Hi - for what you are doing, a 1x5 is 4" wide, I would elect to use the point roundover. Magnate bits have a pretty good reputation although I have never used one myself. You do want to check the radius you need though, that bit you linked to will yield 3/4" wide beads. I'm thinking a 3/16" radius may work better for the look you are apparently going for.
The vertical bit works well for picture frames, at least that's what I use one for but the ones available for routers usually have only a 1/8" radius, I'm sure shaper cutters or molding heads are available in larger sizes.

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post #8 of 18 Old 01-25-2013, 10:18 AM
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I would just use 2 of these

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UQIhYx3C1po

Rip the tops off each one at the intersection and glue them back together after flipping one over.
BAM, you're done, no bits, no hassle.
As long as the glue joint is in the intersection, it will not show, so if you need even more width, rip both top and bottom off to suit your dimension. BAM, you're done.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #9 of 18 Old 01-25-2013, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UQIhYx3C1po

Rip the tops off each one at the intersection and glue them back together after flipping one over.
BAM, you're done, no bits, no hassle.
As long as the glue joint is in the intersection, it will not show, so if you need even more width, rip both top and bottom off to suit your dimension. BAM, you're done.
Good idea, except those are door moldings, 2" wide, be tough to get 5" after ripping the edges off, or even before. There may be a similar molding available in wider stock though.

John

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post #10 of 18 Old 01-25-2013, 12:12 PM
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Got to thinking about this and just drew it up real quick. Could cut a 1 x 6 down to 5" wide, 3/8" radius bit would work just fine (drawing it up, 3/16" looked a little small). Would take only 3 fence setups and 5 passes on a router table, just rotate the board end for end after each pass except the last one.
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John

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post #11 of 18 Old 01-25-2013, 01:26 PM
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let me clarify

Quote:
Originally Posted by jschaben View Post
Good idea, except those are door moldings, 2" wide, be tough to get 5" after ripping the edges off, or even before. There may be a similar molding available in wider stock though.
Take 2 moldings 2 1/4", rip off half an inch from one edge, leaving 1 3/4" x 2 = 3 1/2"
Take 2 more, rip off 1/2" from both edges, leaving 1 1/4", x 2 = 2 1/2"
The math:
1 3/4 X 2 = 3 1/2"
1 1/4 X 2 = 2 1/2"
So far 6", rip off more to suit the width......

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #12 of 18 Old 01-25-2013, 01:33 PM
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Try Baird Brothers. I've purchased mouldings from them and they are great to deal with. Shipping can get expensive, but I had 140 feet of 12' pieces shipped to VA from their shop in OH, so I wasn't expecting it to be cheap. Although the cost of the millwork itself is very good.
http://www.bairdbrothers.com/Casings-C2.aspx

It looks like they have what you are looking for, and you can chose whatever lengths you want as the wood species. They can also do custom mouldings. And since they already have cutters to make the profile you are looking for (I think, based on what I have seen here, but unable to open the link), if they don't have the exact dimensions you are looking for, they could make what you need if it's not a standard stocked item.
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post #13 of 18 Old 01-25-2013, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
Take 2 moldings 2 1/4", rip off half an inch from one edge, leaving 1 3/4" x 2 = 3 1/2"
Take 2 more, rip off 1/2" from both edges, leaving 1 1/4", x 2 = 2 1/2"
The math:
1 3/4 X 2 = 3 1/2"
1 1/4 X 2 = 2 1/2"
So far 6", rip off more to suit the width......
I apologize if I implied that it cannot be done with a buildup, I just disagree that, in this case, a buildup isn't an optimum solution.

John

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post #14 of 18 Old 01-25-2013, 02:02 PM
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What about this

How to create this wood cross section?-100_1083.jpg

I don't know if they sell them still but I inherited one and used the cutters in the top right to do something very similar to what you want. You use it in your table saw and not your router if that makes a difference.

Pete
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post #15 of 18 Old 01-25-2013, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
OR you can rip various production moldings to reassemble to suit your profile:
[url
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=door%20casing&Ns=None&Nt pr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All[/url]

[/LEFT]
I thought about this but am worried that there wouldn't really be a way to be precise enough to rip 2 boards that well and then glue them together somehow.

How would you go about doing this to get a fine quality end product?
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post #16 of 18 Old 01-25-2013, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiskeypete View Post
What about this

Attachment 60935

I don't know if they sell them still but I inherited one and used the cutters in the top right to do something very similar to what you want. You use it in your table saw and not your router if that makes a difference.

Pete
Someone mentioned this shaper idea to me before like this but I can't quite picture how it works since the opening on the table of the table saw for the saw to come out is so skinny I can't imagine the shaper and its blade being able to fit through there. Can you describe/show how it works a little better? Just curious.

Right now I am inclined to go with John's idea and a Magnate pointed roundover or the multibead. I think that gluing boards together might get messy and imprecise. Am I wrong?
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post #17 of 18 Old 01-25-2013, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beavoid View Post
Someone mentioned this shaper idea to me before like this but I can't quite picture how it works since the opening on the table of the table saw for the saw to come out is so skinny I can't imagine the shaper and its blade being able to fit through there. Can you describe/show how it works a little better? Just curious.

Right now I am inclined to go with John's idea and a Magnate pointed roundover or the multibead. I think that gluing boards together might get messy and imprecise. Am I wrong?
I removed the throat plate on my table saw and used one I made for a dado stack with a wider opening. I don't know if every saw has a throat plate though.

Do you just need to make one 8' length? I would just do as others are suggesting and rip a couple already made moldings. You could always use biscuits to help align when gluing.

If you go with a multi-bead router bit, how long is the shank to allow it to be above the table enough for a 5" board?
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post #18 of 18 Old 01-25-2013, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beavoid View Post
Someone mentioned this shaper idea to me before like this but I can't quite picture how it works since the opening on the table of the table saw for the saw to come out is so skinny I can't imagine the shaper and its blade being able to fit through there. Can you describe/show how it works a little better? Just curious.

Right now I am inclined to go with John's idea and a Magnate pointed roundover or the multibead. I think that gluing boards together might get messy and imprecise. Am I wrong?
Making this profile with a router would entail it being done with a table setup, and the stock would be on edge. The router bits don't provide a very wide profile for the radii needed. It would need passes flipped in order to get the cross count of beads. I wouldn't do it that way as it's difficult to hold it against the fence and maintain a smooth pass for whatever the length.

It would be easier to do this on the table saw with a moulding head. This site carries heads and accessory cutters similar to the Craftsman head.
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With the head, using a profile to cut the beads would be done one bead at a time. You'll still have the problem of holding the stock against the fence and holding it down besides. For lengths longer than you can reach with push blocks, if you stop or hesitate, you can make a divot it the profile. Ideally, making a continuous pass non-stop would be the way to do it. Here is the knife you would use...
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