How can I fix a "twisted" 2x6? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 19 Old 01-10-2012, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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How can I fix a "twisted" 2x6?

I make bed frames and use 2x6's for the side rails. A problem I run into is sometimes one of the 2x6's will slightly "twist" on me. With enough muscle I can still force the bolt holes in the headboard and footboard to align up with the holes on the rails. Most of my customers are women (not downing women anyway whatsoever here). Sometimes they simply are not strong enough to twist the rail the opposite way momentarily to align the bolt holes. I spend a lot of time going through stacks of 2x6's making sure to only buy the best (straightest and knot free as possible) boards I can find. However, like I mentioned, once in a while one will "twist" on me. Two questions: (1) is there anything I can do to avoid the 2x6's from twisting? Bowing never really seems to be an issue. I usually buy 8 or 10 at a time. (2). How can I take the twist out once it already happens? We're not talking much. If you lay the twisted 2x6 flat one end will completely lay flat. The other end will be almost flat with roughly a 1/2" to 3/4" gap on one edge. Thanks for any help.

Oh and if it matters, the 2x6's are regular untreated 2x6's. The rails are 80" long and I paint them.
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post #2 of 19 Old 01-10-2012, 11:55 PM
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Pick out better 2x6 at the lumber yard before you buy them.

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post #3 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 12:02 AM
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Dig through the pile until you find quartersawn 2x6s. That should help a little least. You should look for something like this:

Last edited by Upstate; 01-11-2012 at 12:04 AM.
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post #4 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 12:02 AM
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Plane it down and make it a 1x5!
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post #5 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 12:13 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominick View Post
Pick out better 2x6 at the lumber yard before you buy them.
You are stating the obvious . I make sure the 2x6's I pick out at the lumberyard are twist and bow free. The twisting forms over time.


Thanks for the tip on the quartersawn 2x6's.
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post #6 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 12:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickSaw76

You are stating the obvious . I make sure the 2x6's I pick out at the lumberyard are twist and bow free. The twisting forms over time.

Thanks for the tip on the quartersawn 2x6's.
Where are you storing them before you use them? I'm just trying to understand how there twisting after you get them home.

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post #7 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 07:41 AM
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I think that the basic problem is that you are buying cheap lumber that is not thoroughly dried.

George
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post #8 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 08:41 AM
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buy some extras

The box stores or a good lumber yard will have a lenient return policy and not question if you return a few that have warped. They will be OK for most construction jobs.
Store or stack them vertically, rather than laying flat on top on one another, so the air in the shop reaches all sides evenly.
In my experience Spruce will warp more and faster than Southern Yellow Pine. If you see a bunch of "off casts" in or near the pile stay away from that wood and come back later or go to a different store. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #9 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickSaw76 View Post
Two questions: (1) is there anything I can do to avoid the 2x6's from twisting? Bowing never really seems to be an issue. I usually buy 8 or 10 at a time. (2). How can I take the twist out once it already happens?
(1)...You could sticker them horizontally with a lot of weight on top.

(2)...It's hit or miss in trying a "reverse twist". Most likely it won't work.

An option would be to glue up two 3/4" x 5.5" boards that are straight and flat.






.
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post #10 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 10:21 AM
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Kiln operators only dry construction grade lumber down to around 18%-19% moisture content before shipping to stores. Depending upon grading system moisture content can be higher than 19%. After taking it from stack at store boards get more air circulation and dries some more. Twisting & swelling part of uncontrolled wood drying process.

Depending upon where you live want wood with moisture content less than 12% for making furniture.

Just because wood has been through a kiln does not mean completely dry. Wood gains moisture or loses moisture based upon relative humidity in area.

Do not use twisted board for building your beds. You can have joint failures later when wood inside home reach moisture content of 8%-10%.
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post #11 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 01:13 PM
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If you can afford to purchase more boards than you need at any time, stack them vertically and let them acclimatize to the drier indoor environment. As an alternative you can stack them horizontally with stickers between them to allow for air flow though the stack. Placing weight on the stack can also help to let them dry straighter. I have measured wood in my home and gotten readings of between 6% and 8%. Wood allowed to air dry for some time in my unheated shop will regularly measure 10% to 12%. This is enough difference to cause some lumber to twist or warp as it adjusts to the drier air in my home. If you can pre dry the lumber you can sort out any twisted boards and possibly use them for shorter cross members in your bed frames.

Taking the twist out of a board is a hit and miss propositon.

Gerry
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post #12 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 02:55 PM
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if you are willing to lose some thickness, passes over a jointer to flatten a face, then planer to even thickness. or you can hand plane or belt sand. when i absolutely need good 2x lumber, i will buy more than i need (maybe 25%), use the best and return the rest. imho - i also recommend buying it right before using it, trying to store it is like asking it to warp.
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post #13 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 03:08 PM
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Maybe you'd get less severe twisting using two 1"x6" (3/4" finished thickness) boards glue together.
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post #14 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 06:34 PM
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Planing wont do it,it will just make a thinner twisted board.I would try kiln dried wood and also if you find a board that seems heavy compared with the rest,it may have a high moisture content.Poplar is a pretty cheap wood and can be stained nicely.It can be had at HD or Lowes.

***For the record*** Ive made hundreds of guitar bodies,never put one together and cant play a note.
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post #15 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 10:45 PM
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Cut it up at evey 12 in and burn it you never get it out when u buy form lowes or other places like that you need to store it in the same temp as you bought it its call acumatting 11 days per inch of thickness

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post #16 of 19 Old 01-11-2012, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigcouger
Cut it up at evey 12 in and burn it you never get it out when u buy form lowes or other places like that you need to store it in the same temp as you bought it its call acumatting 11 days per inch of thickness
Burn it

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post #17 of 19 Old 01-12-2012, 04:12 PM
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still dont smell smoke

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post #18 of 19 Old 01-21-2015, 06:08 PM
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twisted 2x6

Throw a powered hand planer on it to get the twist out then rip the edges off square. If it's not enough then to use as a rail, save it for something else.
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post #19 of 19 Old 01-21-2015, 06:54 PM
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This thread started out a few years ago. I'm sure the bed is a recliner by now.

Cut it twice, measure once and it's still too short.
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