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PA WOODCHUCK 11-25-2018 05:30 PM

Help selecting BS blade.
Since my original blade is worn out I made the choice of a Bosch 1/2 x 4tpi but the cut is very rough when cutting. I made this choice since I'm cutting 4 inch maple, but have same results even cutting 1.5. I'm open to suggestions what I should have along with brand name members like. I do Rockler for supplies.


woodnthings 11-25-2018 06:02 PM

Rough cuts!
A 4 TPI blade should give you a "rough' cut. How rough is it? It's a catch 22 because you need fewer teeth to cut thicker stock. More teeth won't carry away the dust efficiently and you will overheat the blade and it will
go dull much sooner. So, what to do?

I use a 3 TPI blade, even fewer teeth for resawing. I plan on sanding away the tooth marks after is sawn it OR sometimes I run it through the planer or over the jointer, depending ... You may have received a bad blade.... :surprise2: Maybe the set/offset on one tooth is more than all the others?
To find out which tooth it might be take a thin piece of cardboard and tape it next to the side of the face in such a way that when you spin the blade in the opposite direction it will touch any tooth that is set too far over. Experiment and see what you find out. If there just one tooth, gently squeeze it back in line with the others using a Channel Lock pliers. If nothing seems awry, the blade may be OK and "some sanding" is required. :vs_cool:

PA WOODCHUCK 11-25-2018 06:59 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Here's the test cut

firehawkmph 11-27-2018 09:58 AM

That looks like a terrible cut PA, I get a smoother cut with my chainsaw. Are you pushing too hard, forcing the wood through? I use Timberwolf blades on my 14" Jet and get decent cuts with fine lines in it from a 3tpi blade, for thicker cuts. What kind and size bandsaw are you using? When you get a new blade, you should go through the whole setup of tuning up a bandsaw. There's a video on you tube which makes it very easy. Forgot the guys name, but he demos for Carter Bandsaw accessories.
Mike Hawkins

sunnybob 11-27-2018 10:51 AM

That looks like you are jerking the wood through in small pushes.
The wood should have a gentle steady pressure on it, allowing the blade to make its own cut.
When cutting, keep an eye on the side bearing guides. If one starts to move then slow down, if either both move in fits and starts, agin, dump the blade.
A way of checking if the blade is good is to use a piece of scrap, push it halfway through, and then let go. If the wood jumps and twists, the blade is useless.

PA WOODCHUCK 11-27-2018 07:36 PM

Blade would chatter cutting fast or slow so I replaced it with a 7TPI and much better.

Mikhail2400 11-27-2018 08:18 PM

I ran across a video on youtube named "Bandsaw tuning for the anally retentive". Now personally I think this guy goes a little overboard but I did follow a few of his suggestions, such as tuning a new blade with a die-grinder and it did pretty much stop any blade flutter while improving the cut too.
Up above firehawk mentioned a guy who works for Carter Bandsaw. Im pretty sure he was talking about Alex Snodgrass and that guy is amazing with a bandsaw so I listen to any of his suggestions. He has quite a few videos on youtube you can look up.
Good luck with your saw!!

hawkeye10 11-27-2018 09:45 PM

I use Timber Wolf BS blades. Call Timber Wolf and they will advise you on the blade to buy for your saw and what you are cutting. That is what I did. When cutting wood on you BS try and make your cut without stopping and don't force the workpiece. Let the blade do the cutting. Here is a link to Timber Wolf.


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