Help sanding Maple live edge slab - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 09-15-2019, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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Help sanding Maple live edge slab

So I'm fairly new to woodworking and I've been sanding this Maple slab for a while. I've gotten it pretty smooth but I can't get rid of these lines from what I believe was the planer at the saw Mill. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

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post #2 of 16 Old 09-15-2019, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by lord_bedsheets View Post
So I'm fairly new to woodworking and I've been sanding this Maple slab for a while. I've gotten it pretty smooth but I can't get rid of these lines from what I believe was the planer at the saw Mill. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

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What is your sandpaper number ?????

What is grit number ????

It will be 40 or 60 grit...

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post #3 of 16 Old 09-15-2019, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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What is your sandpaper number ?????

What is grit number ????

It will be 40 or 60 grit...

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I was using 60 and 80 grit

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post #4 of 16 Old 09-15-2019, 04:35 PM
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This is my last solution....

You have to use jointer or hand planer...

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post #5 of 16 Old 09-16-2019, 08:51 AM
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You simply need a more aggressive material removal method. Personally, I have a Festool Rotex that can remove a lot of material, similar to a belt sander but with more control. This is what I use for finishing rough slabs. I start at about 60 grit, sometimes even 40 grit.
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post #6 of 16 Old 09-16-2019, 09:41 AM
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I second the hand plane method. You can get there with sanding, but it'll take a while.


"The kind of man who wants the government to adopt and enforce his ideas is always the kind of man whose ideas are idiotic." -H.L. Mencken
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post #7 of 16 Old 09-16-2019, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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You simply need a more aggressive material removal method. Personally, I have a Festool Rotex that can remove a lot of material, similar to a belt sander but with more control. This is what I use for finishing rough slabs. I start at about 60 grit, sometimes even 40 grit.
Goodness, those are expensive sanders. With me just starting out, I don't know if I can justify spending that much right now. Thanks for the advice!!

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post #8 of 16 Old 09-16-2019, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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I second the hand plane method. You can get there with sanding, but it'll take a while.

https://youtu.be/m231_HKCOWs
I figured this would end up being the route I had to go. Thanks!!

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post #9 of 16 Old 09-16-2019, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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This is my last solution....

You have to use jointer or hand planer...

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Teşekkür ederim! I lived in Adana in 2008-2009!

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post #10 of 16 Old 09-16-2019, 01:53 PM
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Teşekkür ederim! I lived in Adana in 2008-2009!

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Oh really... I live in Izmir.. I have been Adana for military service... I did in Turkish Air Force... I did work at INCIRLIK MILITARY AIRPORT.. I don't miss Adana.. Adana is too hot.. I did come back civil life 18 months later... I like to live civil life... Military service is not for me...

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post #11 of 16 Old 09-16-2019, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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Oh really... I live in Izmir.. I have been Adana for military service... I did in Turkish Air Force... I did work at INCIRLIK MILITARY AIRPORT.. I don't miss Adana.. Adana is too hot.. I did come back civil life 18 months later... I like to live civil life... Military service is not for me...

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Nice! I did United States Air Force at INCIRLIK when I was there. I am a civilian now back in the United States but I still work for the US Air Force and TurAF daily. I do logistics for TurAF on behalf of our government.

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post #12 of 16 Old 09-16-2019, 02:48 PM
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Nice! I did United States Air Force at INCIRLIK when I was there. I am a civilian now back in the United States but I still work for the US Air Force and TurAF daily. I do logistics for TurAF on behalf of our government.

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What do you think about F 35 problem ???

We are allies...

We are on the same side...

We are in NATO...

Turkey is not super power but The second most powerful army in Europe...

I don't understand america Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Pentagon...

We did buy S 500 than russia and we can get SU 35 than russia...

USA can lost a strong friend..

Why is USA embargo us about F35..

Really I don't understand. ..


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post #13 of 16 Old 09-16-2019, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I don't really want to get on the F-35 topic on this forum, but I do know that we want Turkey to be part of the F-35 program. But when you buy things from Russia that jeopardizes everything.

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post #14 of 16 Old 09-16-2019, 04:39 PM
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Well, I don't really want to get on the F-35 topic on this forum, but I do know that we want Turkey to be part of the F-35 program. But when you buy things from Russia that jeopardizes everything.

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You are right sir... wrong place... Here is woodworking forum.. Last thing .. you did not give us another option.. Nice to meet you sir.. GOODNIGHT..

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post #15 of 16 Old 09-16-2019, 05:23 PM
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Oh really... I live in Izmir.. I have been Adana for military service... I did in Turkish Air Force... I did work at INCIRLIK MILITARY AIRPORT.. I don't miss Adana.. Adana is too hot.. I did come back civil life 18 months later... I like to live civil life... Military service is not for me...

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Merhaba. Okay, that's the only word I know. My daughter is the one who knows Turkish. lol
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post #16 of 16 Old 09-20-2019, 12:04 AM
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So I'm fairly new to woodworking and I've been sanding this Maple slab for a while. I've gotten it pretty smooth but I can't get rid of these lines from what I believe was the planer at the saw Mill. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

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The "Law of Sanding" is that you must get everything sanded to the lowest grit necessary so all "scratches" match. Then progressive sanding with higher grits works to get a uniform surface that is smoother and smoother as you progress with higher grits.

Assuming you want that slab both flat and smooth, you will have to remove wood between those milling marks (from the saw mill) to get to the level of the marks and then sand the entire flattened surface to a grit that "erases" the milling marks. The less time spent on this coarse sanding the better, so a belt sander at a low grit or a router jig that lets the router ride on rails over the slab, or a sizable hand plane could get that done. Once flat and no milling marks are ruining the surface, then progressively higher grits on the flat surface will do it.

If by some chance you need the slab smooth, but not flat, then just attack the milling marks, (and slightly more), with the lower grits and progressive sanding until the entire surface has scratches of the same grit and go from there. It won't be flat, but all of it will be smooth (ie there would still be higher areas outside of the milling mark areas).
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