Help - New Jointer or New Planer which one first? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 06-12-2019, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Help - New Jointer or New Planer which one first?

I have an old Delta 8" jointer - Yes shimmed and all
Also have a Delta Lunchbox planer - Fast speed only works
I am looking to upgrade both machines but have to pick one first.

Which one should i get first?
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post #2 of 9 Old 06-12-2019, 02:39 PM
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That is something only you can really answer, which of the two machines that you have now is in the most dire condition that it needs replacing. Is the jointer worth restoring rather than replacing as it would seem to be the higher quality of the two.

“Everything we hear is an opinion, not a fact. Everything we see is a perspective, not the truth.”
― Marcus Aurelius
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post #3 of 9 Old 06-12-2019, 03:10 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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Keep the 8" Delta ...

Get a new 15" stationary planer to replace the lunch box and just maintain the Delta 8" jointer, which would cost a lot to duplicate in quality. I have a 15" Jet planer, but Grizzly and Rikon makes them also.
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Gri...P-Planer/G0453


The Dewalt 735 13" planer gets good reviews and is reasonably priced compared to a cast iron version:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=dewalt+73...l_65u0qjx84c_e

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #4 of 9 Old 06-12-2019, 04:11 PM
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I went 25 years without a planner of any type. Got one and still did not use it much.


All depends upon the type of wood that you purchase.


George
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post #5 of 9 Old 06-12-2019, 06:11 PM
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I had a 6" jointer I suffered with for many years. It was only after I started making more entry doors I upgraded to a 12" jointer. If I had had the Delta 8" it would have been good enough. Like George I worked for decades before buying a planer. For most projects you can purchase the wood in the thickness you need so I never bothered. Again because of entry doors I bought a lunchbox planer but found it wasn't up to the task so I bought a 24" planer. The equipment you need really depends on your own needs. For most things the lunchbox planer works very well.
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post #6 of 9 Old 06-12-2019, 10:10 PM
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To me the planer is used more than the joiner, I use a lot of old lumber that has warped/cupped as well as new box store wood, so it is my go to tool. Once the surface is flat then I would use the joiner or the table saw to square it up.
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post #7 of 9 Old 06-13-2019, 02:14 AM
where's my table saw?
 
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Not really ^ .......

It's mostly about the tablesaw...huh?
The table saw is finicky about the condition of the wood it will safely accept...... huh?



Any wood that is NOT flat on the bottom and square on the edge that you place against the fence MAY be cause for a kickback. This is because the wood may twist as it's going past the blade, bind up and get kicked backwards OR it may lose contact with the fence and ride Up and OVER the blade back at you. The use of the jointer prior to the tablesaw will prevent this. Using the planer first will not..... huh?


Because the planer is a "two sided" machine, it makes the wood a uniform thickness along it's length and will duplicate any slight curvature in the board. The cutter is on the top face of the board, so it will duplicate what ever is on the bottom face. It is also "power fed" unlike the jointer where the operator controls the feed rate and pressure down on the tables.



The jointer is a "one sided" machine and only performs the cutting/ material removal on the bottom face, leaving the top face alone. The jointer has two tables, an infeed and an outfeed which are separated by the cutter. As the wood is fed into the cutter the depth of cut is determined by the amount of offset between the two tables. The greater the offset, the greater the depth of cut. After the wood is both flat and square, it's safe to run on the table saw, AND both edges will be straight and parallel!



I use mostly rough saw wood that was milled from trees on my property years ago. I will also buy rough sawn wood at the mill in special species for special projects like Zebra wood, Teak, Walnut and some Maples. I can select the type of grain orientation this way, quatersawn for straight knot free applications, OR plainsawn for most of the others. Where the wood has been sawn from the initial log determines how it will react during the drying process. If the grain on the end is vertical it's less likely to cup. If the grain is arched, it will cup toward the smaller side of the arches. The more you learn about how wood moves, the better your projects will be!




The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #8 of 9 Old 06-19-2019, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeC View Post
I went 25 years without a planner of any type. Got one and still did not use it much.


All depends upon the type of wood that you purchase.


George

Every situation is different. :) I too went 25+ years without a planer and have had a jointer for all of that time. Then I got a planer last year and have used the heck out of it ever since. :) This is mainly due to the fact that I came into an abundance of rough pine for free that I am using to make bookcases and bulletin boards for my wife's school. (I am sick of building just bookcases and bulletin boards now after a year of seemingly nothing but. :) )


Your decision though will need to be made based on what your needs are...and those can change, as mine have too. Good luck.
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post #9 of 9 Old 06-19-2019, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeC View Post
I went 25 years without a planner of any type. Got one and still did not use it much.


All depends upon the type of wood that you purchase.


George
Every situation is different. :) I too went 25+ years without a planer and have had a jointer for all of that time. Then I got a planer last year and have used the heck out of it ever since. :) This is mainly due to the fact that I came into an abundance of rough pine for free that I am using to make bookcases and bulletin boards for my wife's school. (I am sick of building just bookcases and bulletin boards now after a year of seemingly nothing but. :) )


Your decision though will need to be made based on what your needs are...and those can change, as mine have too. Good luck.
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