Help ,Did I totally ruin my oak window base? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 20 Old 01-29-2013, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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Help ,Did I totally ruin my oak window base?

Hi Guys,

I was trying to sand out some marks on unfinshed oak. I was using a dewalt random orbital sander at 60 grit. If left a roundish patter that doesnt match the wood at all ( see picture ). What did I do wrong and can i fix this?

Thanks
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post #2 of 20 Old 01-29-2013, 08:10 PM
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Sand the entire piece starting w/ 120 and moving up the scale, sanding WITH the grain.


Take your 60 grit paper and throw it away!!!! The only thing I use it for is removing paint when I don't have any stripper handy.

Now, the proper approach is to start w/ a higher grit and work your way down until you correct the problem. Don't do it in the reverse manner else you end up w/ your current problem.

This is correctable.
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post #3 of 20 Old 01-29-2013, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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OK But I am still safe using random orbital dewalt?
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post #4 of 20 Old 01-29-2013, 08:15 PM
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looks like oak veneer to me and you sanded thru the layer of oak
i sure hope im wrong
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post #5 of 20 Old 01-29-2013, 08:40 PM
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That's oak ply and you sanded thru the veneer, I'm afraid. More sanding will only make it worse. For future reference, I never go lower than 80, and that's only for surface leveling when sanding solid wood glue ups and such.

Start at 120 and go up in grit. Makes no sense to go the other way. The ROS leaves little swirls, and each successive grit removes the swirls of the heavier grit before it and smooths the surface further.

Couple things you can do, depending on your skill set and adventurousness. Re-Veneer the window sill with spray contact cement and a piece of oak veneer. That's what I would do.
If you plan on staining the sill, you could disguise the burn thru by drawing in some grain with the appropriate color permanent marker and stain lightly using successive LIGHT coats, blending as best you can.

Whatever you do, don't try to sand it out ;-P
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post #6 of 20 Old 01-29-2013, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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Great, I am so suprised out how thin the veneer was. How thin of a layer of vaneer can I get? Like 1/8 inch hopefully and what are the odds I can get something that remotely matches the window?

Oh and if I was to keep sanding deeper would I eventually strike oak again?

Last edited by Cordel; 01-29-2013 at 09:00 PM.
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post #7 of 20 Old 01-29-2013, 09:54 PM
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With all due respect. You screwed the pooch. 60 grit?

Al

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post #8 of 20 Old 01-29-2013, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cordel
Great, I am so suprised out how thin the veneer was. How thin of a layer of vaneer can I get? Like 1/8 inch hopefully and what are the odds I can get something that remotely matches the window?

Oh and if I was to keep sanding deeper would I eventually strike oak again?
Veneer is thinner than you grandmothers bible paper.

Al

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post #9 of 20 Old 01-29-2013, 10:09 PM
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You will hit oak again.....in 3/4 of an inch......Sorry man....its time to learn how to reveneer. http://www.woodcraft.com/product/200...8--10-mil.aspx
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post #10 of 20 Old 01-29-2013, 10:12 PM
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No, you won't strike oak again if you keep sanding. I think at this point, veneering it again is your only real shot at fixing that like it was before.

Edit.....I was posting at the same time as the guy above. I was about to say the same thing about the 3/4 inch ply but decided not to. Haha.

What he meant was the other side is also veneered, too.

Last edited by Duane Bledsoe; 01-29-2013 at 10:18 PM.
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post #11 of 20 Old 01-29-2013, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al B Thayer View Post
Veneer is thinner than you grandmothers bible paper.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
She reads the King James version and yes its pretty thin. I will need Gods help anyways to get me through this disaster.

Thanks for the help though guys, i appreciate it.

Last edited by Cordel; 01-29-2013 at 10:33 PM.
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post #12 of 20 Old 01-30-2013, 01:09 AM
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Can't tell from the photo. If you can pull the piece out, replace it with a new piece, maybe with solid lumber. That might be easier (and in the long run cheaper) than making this you first veneering experience.
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post #13 of 20 Old 01-30-2013, 07:40 AM
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Sorry bro, for sure oak ply wood or a veneered substrate. If you buy some veneer you could fix it with a little work. You might be better off to re veneer the whole piece. I would fill the burnt area with a decent wood filler and glue some new oak to it.
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post #14 of 20 Old 01-30-2013, 07:51 AM
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By oak i mean oak veneer. The veneer is super thin so sand everything to 220 lightly with no added pressure, then wipe all dust off of the piece. When you are ready to cut the veneer to size a pair of sharp scissors will do the trick. Be careful when cutting with the grain as the veneer may want to run with a grain or split so to speak. Across the grain should cut nicely.

When ready to glue use a brush or rubber head roller and put a thin film of glue across entire surface. Flip piece over and repeat. Then use wax paper to protect the surface u don't want glue on and put some weight on the piece over night.
Carefully sand the edges down so they are flush and you are all set.
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post #15 of 20 Old 01-30-2013, 07:56 AM
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Even if it were solid wood you shouldn't have been using 60 grit paper on an orbital sander. That coarse you would leave swirl marks all over what you sanding which wouldn't show up until you started finishing it. 80 grit is as coarse as you should go and then only on solid wood and it will leave swirl marks you need to pay attention to work out with finer paper afterwards. 60 grit is more suited to strip paint off metal.

40 years ago when I got in the business if a person was careful you could sand a piece of plywood with a belt sander with a 60 grit belt and not sand through the veneer. Todays plywood the veneer is so thin sometimes you can see the core through the veneer before it's sanded. The veneer is as thin as paper and after they laminate it on a sheet they send it through a sander and take half of that off so when you get it there is nearly nothing. Todays plywood shouldn't be sanded with anything coarser than 180 grit.
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post #16 of 20 Old 01-30-2013, 08:56 AM
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From the picture, it looks like you have enough room to use 1/4" oak plywood instead of a veneer.
Easier to install, readily available at real lumberyards.
IMHO

Learning more about tools everyday
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post #17 of 20 Old 01-30-2013, 09:43 AM
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I can't tell how this is mounted but is flipping the piece over and option? To me it looks like a window sill.
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post #18 of 20 Old 01-30-2013, 04:49 PM
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Here here.
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post #19 of 20 Old 01-30-2013, 04:54 PM
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My fault, here here Steve. Todays plywood is for the birds and I've only been in it 20 years. Ten years ago you could at least go through the steps from 80 grit to 220 grit. I'm struggling right now with a set of cherry built-Ins. I might as well rub the carcasses with my hand so i won't burn through it.
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post #20 of 20 Old 01-30-2013, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larrylii View Post
I can't tell how this is mounted but is flipping the piece over and option? To me it looks like a window sill.

Be careful doing this little trick. If you screw it up I doubt you could ever blend it in to match the other windows. I went to fix a broken tile once.........................................:cens ored:
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