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post #1 of 16 Old 05-29-2012, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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Question Help and Advice wanted

I want to make a very special wine rack. I cant afford to buy one but would invest in the tools. Please can anyone advise on what method and tools to purchase.

The wine rack is tree trunk. It needs the bark taking off and finishing. I want to produce something warm that shows the grain and is tactile. I have attached a picture.

Do I need to shot blast the wood? How and what is the best long term finish? Do I need to spray it. I want it to be durable.

THe next big question is the holes? How the hell do I drill big holes such as those that can take a wine bottle? Advice please?

Ed
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post #2 of 16 Old 05-29-2012, 02:06 PM
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You scan strip the bark with wire brush, followed by a flap sander, mounted in an electric drill.

The holes can be most easily done with a large Forstner bit if you can find one large enough. You will need a fairly large drill motor to turn it though.

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post #3 of 16 Old 05-29-2012, 02:48 PM
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I would use a drawknife to remove the bark. A 3" cup style hole saw with a pilot bit will cut the holes. Use at least a ⅜" electric drill.





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post #4 of 16 Old 05-29-2012, 06:11 PM
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Holesaw?? Where do you get a holesaw that will drill a hole deep enough for a wine bottle?
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post #5 of 16 Old 05-29-2012, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave66
Holesaw?? Where do you get a holesaw that will drill a hole deep enough for a wine bottle?
You drill until it bottoms out, and then remove the plug with a mortising chisel, before taking another cut with the drill.

A long and tedious process but the Forstner bit will also take quite a while.

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post #6 of 16 Old 05-29-2012, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jigs-n-fixtures View Post
You drill until it bottoms out, and then remove the plug with a mortising chisel, before taking another cut with the drill.

A long and tedious process but the Forstner bit will also take quite a while.
+1. You can drill deeper by just using a shaft extension for the bit. Using a Forstner bit requires all the material to be hogged out, instead of just the circumference. It would be a PITA with a Forstner IMO.





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post #7 of 16 Old 05-29-2012, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetman

+1. You can drill deeper by just using a shaft extension for the bit. Using a Forstner bit requires all the material to be hogged out, instead of just the circumference. It would be a PITA with a Forstner IMO.




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A hole saw can only go the depth of the blade before you bottom out. No matter how long of extension you put on it. And, a hole saw can only cut the kerf of it's saw blade leaving a plug that will have to be removed. .

The OP wants to build a wine rack out of a tree trunk. To do that he will need to drill large, deep, flat bottomed holes. The OP also stated that they have a minimum of tools.

I do own the chisels required to accomplish the task, such as mortising chisels to clean out the plug, and swan neck chisels to clean out the bottom of the holes. But from the OPs post he doesn't.

From their post the best option for them is a good drill which can be used to turn both the Forstner bit, and the wire brush and flap sander needed to debark the trunk. Yes there are other tool combinations that could do the job. But not for as low of initial cost as the four tools I recommended. Nor with as short of a learning curve.

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post #8 of 16 Old 05-29-2012, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetman View Post


I would use a drawknife to remove the bark. A 3" cup style hole saw with a pilot bit will cut the holes. Use at least a ⅜" electric drill.










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A 3/8" drill? I would think at least 1/2" and geared low for drilling a 4" or so hole into a solid tree, like a milwaukee holehawg. And hold on tight!

Thanks for your help
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post #9 of 16 Old 05-30-2012, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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Im wondering if sandblasting the wood after it is stripped would show the grain? Also how do I get a finish. Should I spray or brush?
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post #10 of 16 Old 05-30-2012, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edward1976
Im wondering if sandblasting the wood after it is stripped would show the grain? Also how do I get a finish. Should I spray or brush?
Sandblasting will bring out the grain. So will brushing with a fine wire brush.

A spray finish is probably the only way to apply a finish evenly to an irregular surface.

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post #11 of 16 Old 05-30-2012, 09:21 AM
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How "green" is the trunk you are using? By green, I am asking how dried out is it?

I tend to agree with cabinetman on this. I have drilled through an 8 x 8 with a hole saw, and after the hole saw bottoms out, all you have to do is take a screw driver and "pop" the plug out by wedgeing it in the cut kerf, and prying it out. Then continue on.... If the drill bottoms out, then the said extension will get you as deep as you want to go. To flaten out the bottom, you could use a smaller forstner bit.

Regardless of which drill bit you want to use, you do want to get a 1/2" drill because they are more powerful. I also know that the bigger holesaws require a 1/2" chuck anyway. You also DON'T want to cut at high RPMs because if it catches, you will be thrown good. A good drill to use for this application is one like this. It has two handles to help you maintain control. That drills max rpm is not that high either, but isn't needed to be, because it was made for applications like this.

As far as finish, Spraying would be the way to go, if you have access to a HVLP sprayer... if not then this project will take a bunch of cans, and be quite costly. With a piece this size, you could just brush on, which would be more cost effective, and still get into the nooks and crannies. I personally like Polyeurathane, but laquer would work just as well.

Hope this helps

Fabian

I used to be fairly indecisive, but now....... I'm not so sure.

Last edited by thegrgyle; 05-30-2012 at 09:24 AM. Reason: forgot to answer questions about finishing
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post #12 of 16 Old 05-30-2012, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jigs-n-fixtures View Post
A hole saw can only go the depth of the blade before you bottom out. No matter how long of extension you put on it. And, a hole saw can only cut the kerf of it's saw blade leaving a plug that will have to be removed.
That's right. That's the idea. By easing the saw back and forward as it enters, the plug doesn't stick to the inside of the cutter. The saw will remove itself from the plug fairly easy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jigs-n-fixtures View Post
The OP wants to build a wine rack out of a tree trunk. To do that he will need to drill large, deep, flat bottomed holes. The OP also stated that they have a minimum of tools.

I do own the chisels required to accomplish the task, such as mortising chisels to clean out the plug, and swan neck chisels to clean out the bottom of the holes. But from the OPs post he doesn't.

From their post the best option for them is a good drill which can be used to turn both the Forstner bit, and the wire brush and flap sander needed to debark the trunk. Yes there are other tool combinations that could do the job. But not for as low of initial cost as the four tools I recommended. Nor with as short of a learning curve.
IMO, using a flap sander on the bark may keep you flappin' way past beer thirty depending on how old/dry the bark is. You may be just sanding your butt off making the bark smooth. A drawknife, IMO, would be the quick and easy method for bark removal. He could just use a wide chisel and a hammer, or a hatchet and a hammer. Even a long handle scraper might do the job.

As for cost, a hole saw could be much less expensive than a Forstner in a 4" diameter. Drilling with a 4" Forstner bit with hand drill would a real chore. If doing it that way, you should equip the drill with an outrigger handle.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D180064-4-Inch-Standard-Bi-Metal/dp/B00005LEZR/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1338381844&sr=8-5 http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1803-16-Inch-Change-Mandrel/dp/B00004RGZQ/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_b I also would add that I suggested a ⅜" electric drill. That would be too small...a " drill would be needed. A hole needs only to be about 4"-5" deep.

http://www.amazon.com/Multi-Forstner-Southeast-Tool-SMSHS460/dp/B003S7YUXK/ref=sr_1_188?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1338382904&sr=1-188 MLCS has one (f#9261) for $35 + shipping. I don't know how good it is.

He could also use a hand brace and an expansive bit. That combo works pretty good.




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post #13 of 16 Old 05-30-2012, 11:44 AM
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I like the Forstner bit myself. I don't think you can guarantee the inset on the hole saw is going to pop out easily each time, depending on the wood of the tree. Any crotch or cross limb grain might be a lot tougher, and having to dig it out could ruin the hole, which would ruin the project. Of course, I own a Milwaukee Hole Shooter, so I am biased.

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post #14 of 16 Old 05-30-2012, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tennessee View Post
I like the Forstner bit myself. I don't think you can guarantee the inset on the hole saw is going to pop out easily each time, depending on the wood of the tree. Any crotch or cross limb grain might be a lot tougher, and having to dig it out could ruin the hole, which would ruin the project. Of course, I own a Milwaukee Hole Shooter, so I am biased.
You wouldn't have to "dig it out" if it put the holes in jeopardy. A chisel can be used to chip and bust away the plug without damaging the walls of the holes.
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post #15 of 16 Old 05-31-2012, 05:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks

Thanks to all. I will let you all know how I got on.
Ed
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post #16 of 16 Old 05-31-2012, 06:52 AM
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Welcome to the forum...Looking forward to seeing your progress.

Roger from the Great Horicon Swamp
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