Here is the full table in perspective view, in its smaller size configuration:
It is 43" in diameter.
The skirt is not as large in diameter as the table top, and needs to be redone and made bigger to lay flush with the table top's outer lip so as to accommodate the maximum size extension table leaves folded up inside the base table when not in use. This will become clearer in a moment.
This is the unfinished and uncut ring that will form the eight extension leaves:
This piece's inner ring has a diameter of 43" and an outer diameter of 61" for a total of 18" larger, or 9" of radius larger. It is only 1/4" thick because such thickness affects the ability for the leaves to store under the table, as they sit in large part on top of one another, overlapping, like a camera lens.
The next picture is with the table top and skirt removed:
The inner circle is fixed to the table base. The outer ring pointed to, not to be confused with the extension leaves ring shown prior (that has yet to be sliced into 8 equal pieces) sits on top of 2 boards in an "X" configuration, and can spin freely in either direction. One of those 4 prongs of the "X" is above my finger. I point to a dowel that was cut down on the ring because it was misplaced. In a working form of the table, 8 equidistant dowels will emerge from this ring and point to the sky about 2" or so in height. These dowels help open the leaf extensions when this ring is spun clockwise as looked at from above. This becomes clearer in pictures below.
Here is a picture with this ring removed so the "X" pattern can be seen.
The circular table skirt rests on top of this "X" pattern, rising with a counterclockwise (as seen from above) spin of the table skirt, and lowering with a clockwise spin.
In the next picture the too small circular table skirt and its "threads"--made of the aforementioned glued on dentil molding ride on top of this "X." This molding allows the skirt to raise and lower with its being spun. This dentil molding, in protruding from the inside surface of the skirt, takes up precious space to store the expanding leaves. I would rather effect this threading by routing into the skirt, either while a still a straight board before kerfing, or after. This is the essence of my last post that inspired request for these pictures.
Equally important, the threads resist downward movement of the skirt, but less so, albeit less important, upwards movement of the skirt towards the sky. Threads routed into the inside of the skirt would resists up or down movement of the skirt.
Here is the table skirt spun counter-clockwise and as a result is lower to the ground. This lower position is necessary to be able to extract the leaves from within inside the table, and then raise those leaves to the height of the base table top by spinning the skirt clockwise once those leaves have been extracted.
Let's now take a look at the internal hardware that makes this work. The following is an 8 point star whose center lies in the center of the table.
Near the end of each star point is a bolted hinge point with a folding up arm with its middle section cut out. This middle cut out of each arm sits on its own dowel (of 8) mentioned above that have yet to be installed on the internal ring. As the skirt is dropped and this ring spun by the owner clockwise, the dowels turning clockwise open the arms.
The position of the bolted hinge point is a complex optimization exercise. While all 8 bolts are equi-distant from the center, there is a distance window where the largest leaves can still fit under the table. Make the hinge point further out or closer to the center, and the leaves that will fit under the table when stored must become smaller to fit.
When these arms are folded up they are roughly 20" from center as shown:
This size fits under the table top, with a radius of 21.5" but not the current skirt, which needs to be widened, and why this thread first began, and how best to make this circular skirt.
The last picture shows how 1 of the total of 8 ring segments fit under the table, featuring a temporary cardboard ring segment for measurement purposes:
These ring segments fold somewhat overlapping on top of one another, again, like a camera lens. The leaves can only close as far is the small disk in the center of the table that keeps the base table top elevated, even with the skirt is dropped, permits them to.
The basic principle to expanding the table is to drop the skirt by spining it clockwise, exposing the leaves by spinning the ring clockwise, and then spinning the skirt counter clockwise to raise it and the leaves, (along with the arms and star inside the table) to the base table top height.
The process is reversed to fold away the expanding leaves.
I hope these pictures help for a better understanding and my desire to router the new larger skirt's threads.