Hand Plane Help! - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 07-09-2011, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Hand Plane Help!

Hey guys I'm pretty new to woodworking. I decided to build a pirate themed toychest for my kids and I haven't had any real problems (mostly small trial and error stuff) until now. I bought a 9 in jack plane from Menards to clean up the really rough edges and it worked fine for a couple days. Yesterday I was taking off a few shavings and it started digging into the wood in places. I took off the blade and realized that the few nail heads that I hit had created some teeth on the blade. I got a whet stone and sharpened it up but now the plane won't stay on the wood, it just jumps all over the place digging big notches in the wood as it jumps. I took the blade back out and sharpened it for about 30 min and after I put it back together I still had the same problem. As I said before I'm new to this and I've looked around trying to find a solution but to no avail. I just need some suggestions please.

Thanks for any help!
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post #2 of 14 Old 07-09-2011, 03:50 PM
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Hi Moo, welcome to the forum.

Sounds like blade chatter.

The blade needs to be super sharp, with the back of the blade being flat.
The chip breaker should be no more than 1/16" behind the edge.
The blade/chip breaker should sit flat against the frog.
Lastly, the blade might be adjusted for too deep of a cut.
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post #3 of 14 Old 07-09-2011, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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thanks

I'm in my way back out to the garage to give your suggestions a try... Thanks!
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post #4 of 14 Old 07-09-2011, 03:55 PM
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Here's the anatomy of a Stanley plane
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post #5 of 14 Old 07-09-2011, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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I tried sharpening the blade again but I think that I made the cutting surface too sharp without enough of an angle. Same problem... Keeps taking big chunks out of the wood... Still frustrated! I think I'll find someone with a grinder or sharpening wheel to even out the angle. could this be the problem? Thanks again for all of the help!

Last edited by Moo; 07-09-2011 at 05:17 PM.
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post #6 of 14 Old 07-09-2011, 05:24 PM
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do you have the bevel facing down, and the chip beaker on top?

You can steepen the angle on the blades some, and they will still cut.

Try planing from the other direction and see how that works.
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post #7 of 14 Old 07-09-2011, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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oh god I feel really stupid right now... I had the bevel facing up. I appriciate everything man! thanks!!
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post #8 of 14 Old 07-09-2011, 05:37 PM
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Glad you got it figured out.
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post #9 of 14 Old 07-09-2011, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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works like a charm now.... can we delete this thread?! Thanks for everything again!!
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post #10 of 14 Old 07-09-2011, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moo View Post
I think I'll find someone with a grinder or sharpening wheel to even out the angle. could this be the problem? Thanks again for all of the help!
I would strongly suggest against taking any chisel, plane iron, or other cutting tool to a grinder. While a grinder is great for lawn mower blades, it is the wrong tool to use to sharpen wood working tools. First off, the grinder will heat up the blade, and that heat could cause it to loose its temper , and therefore, if you do manage to get it sharp again, it won't keep that edge long. Your plane iron and chisels should be razor sharp. anything less is dangerous, and a real PIA to use safely. You could google the "Scary sharp" sharpening method.... I understand that alot of guys on this site use this to sharpen their tools. I use the worksharp 3000 (basically a sandpaper sharpening system(up to 6000 grit)), and am very happy with it, though I am very careful to avoid letting any of my blades from heating up.

Hope this helps.

Fabian

Fabian

I used to be fairly indecisive, but now....... I'm not so sure.
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post #11 of 14 Old 07-10-2011, 07:57 AM
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A plane iron or any other of a long list of cutting tools,edges are either.........hollow ground or they ain't.If someone can come up with a way of putting this hollow grind on without using some sort of grinder........which come in many forms,I'm all ears.We have a '47 Norton surface grinder w/hyd power feed,water cooled and a Pope spindle($$$),thats graduated in .0001's,and tips the scales right at 1 1/2 tons.


So,while a 69$ bench grinder from HF may suck......saying that grinding tool edges is somehow not appropriate,boggles the mind?BW

Those who say it cannot be done shouldn't interrupt the people doing it.
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post #12 of 14 Old 07-10-2011, 08:34 AM
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Wet paper on glass works for me... It's all I need.

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...
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post #13 of 14 Old 07-10-2011, 10:30 AM
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I agree with the wet paper on glass, btw ....got my first real chisels last week....old set of buck bros....man can these things cut., cost a bit but well worth it
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post #14 of 14 Old 07-10-2011, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by lawrence
I agree with the wet paper on glass, btw ....got my first real chisels last week....old set of buck bros....man can these things cut., cost a bit but well worth it
So old but new to you? Sweet... PICTURES???

~tom ...it's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt...
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