hairline cracks/slit in raw pine wood table - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 12-11-2019, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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Question hairline cracks/slit in raw pine wood table

I decided to remove all the paint and stain on a tv stand that I wasn't happy with. The guy who made it evidently didn't sand much if at all on most of the wood. It has been a huge project trying to sand the entire piece, but i have most of it done. My problem/concern is that the long pieces of wood that are the legs/trim are very fragile and have what look like hairline cracks running down a few of the boards. I was able to fill some very bad gouges and missing wood areas (last pic) with homemade wood filler, but these cracks are so fine, I'm not sure this will work. I will be painting the legs where the cracks are and plan on using primer first, but I'm worried that this might not be enough to cover. I have sanded multiple times with all levels of grit, but it won't get ride of the cracks. Any suggestions would be a huge help! Thanks. Below are pics.
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post #2 of 9 Old 12-11-2019, 05:04 PM
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I'm not seeing cracks. I do see remnants of what appears to be stain in the natural grains of the wood?

Tip for removing small dents in wood: https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-a-Dent-from-Wood. Works like magic. :)
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post #3 of 9 Old 12-12-2019, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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I thought they might be very thin cracks in the wood, but that makes me feel better if that is all it is. Thanks for the link to the method to remove cracks and dents though. I have never tried this! Have you done this before?
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post #4 of 9 Old 12-12-2019, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suzanne LaMore View Post
Thanks for the link to the method to remove cracks and dents though. I have never tried this! Have you done this before?
This method doesn't remove cracks. But it does remove small scratches and dents to fair effect, and can substantially reduce larger ones. And yes, I've used it. I'm not the most careful woodworker, and sometimes I may drop a board, or lay it on top of a wood chip on the bench.

The method works by saturating the crushed wood fibers with water, and essentially re-inflating them. But if the wood fibers have been broken, the method will not work so well. Also, the water needs to be able to absorb into the wood, and works best on naked wood. A finished wood (sealed or painted) will not work well without first removing the finish.

In your case, where the staining is, I don't think this will work. I think that's the natural grain of the wood. To remove the stain, you would need to continue applying a stain solvent, or sand until it's gone.
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post #5 of 9 Old 12-12-2019, 10:11 AM
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The legs and top look like they are made out of nominal 2" framing lumber--2x4's or 2x6's, actually about 1 1/2" thick. This is rarely pine but rather a spruce/fir mix. This wood is processed for a structural rather than aesthetic end use. The kiln drying process is rapid to keep cost down and can result in fine cracks or fractures that run all through the wood. They may run at an angle to the surface, so they can appear and disappear as you look at it from different angles. They may open and close with changes in moisture content. The wood is stringy compared to pine, so the surface can be torn up by planing. The torn fiber in the bottom picture can go quite deep. It looks like someone worked this a bit with a hand plane, maybe to flush up the joint.

If the lower shelves are thinner, they are more likely to be a hard pine.

Don't know what the construction is, but it looks like a sturdy and nicely proportioned piece. What do you have in mind for a finish?
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post #6 of 9 Old 12-12-2019, 03:06 PM
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He said he used pine for both top and bottom boards. I am not sure what I will do for a stain yet. I am afraid of it going orangey but have seen special walnut look nice sometimes. My coffee table, made by someone else, was spruce and I like the color but it probably wouldn't look the same. It was 2 parts special walnut and dark walnut and one part early american I believe...all minwax. I like lighter more natural colors. Here is a pic of my coffee table.
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post #7 of 9 Old 12-12-2019, 03:57 PM
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One thing about the OP table. It has a lot of knots. If you're planning on painting it, you'll have to seal the knots with shellac first. Otherwise they'll bleed through like crazy.
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post #8 of 9 Old 12-12-2019, 04:58 PM
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I am only going to paint the legs. Not the 3 boards. I am priming before I paint the legs.
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post #9 of 9 Old 12-12-2019, 05:00 PM
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The tv stand is the one I'm working on. Not the table. That is mine and I like it as it is. The guy who made it moved and doesn't make tv stands or I would have had him do it for sure!
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