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post #1 of 18 Old 05-28-2012, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Gorilla Glue

I was gluing up my dust collection ben and decided to use Gorilla Glue. I had tried it in the past once, but don't remember the application. I just remembered it expanded and think it will work well for this glue up.

Anybody have experience with this type of glue? Does it work well for certain applications but not others? Anyone ever use it on furniture building? Has it proven itself?

Anyone know the best way to wash it off your hands and fingers?

Al

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post #2 of 18 Old 05-28-2012, 10:39 PM
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Polyurethane glues excel at some applications because they have low creep and are moisture resistant. But, even though the foaming action fills a gap, there's little strength in the gap so joints need to fit well in order for the joint to have real strength.


To my recollection, there's no reasonable way to remove it from skin other than to wait. Best to wear gloves.
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post #3 of 18 Old 05-28-2012, 11:07 PM
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Gorilla glue works well in situations where parts don't fit well or the wood is somewhat rotten. On interior wood with well fitted parts I would use carpenters glue. On exterior applications with well fitted parts I would use weldwood resorcinol glue or titebond III.
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post #4 of 18 Old 05-29-2012, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al B Thayer View Post
Anyone know the best way to wash it off your hands and fingers?
Al,
The comments will come out of the woodwork. People will say gloves first and a zillion other comments.

To remove polyurethane glue from your hands, just wear some latex or nytril gloves for about 30 minutes and work up a sweat. Your hands will be cleaner than your Mom ever thought possible.

Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
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post #5 of 18 Old 05-29-2012, 12:09 AM
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I have used Gorilla Glue (the polyeurathane kind) for all my dust collection needs, because it expands and seals up any part of the joints. It also adheres to everything (I.E. plastic hose connectors with wood). I like to think that it is better at making something "air-tight" than other glues.

As far as getting it off your hands, That is a tricky situation. Most polyeurathanes that I have worked with ( and I am in the insulation industry) will only wear off with time. I have tried all sorts of chemicals and solvents, and there really isn't anything that works for me that wouldn't eat my skin too. The best thing is to wear gloves before starting to work with it.

I will have to try that trick about wearing latex gloves AFTER I get the polyeurathane on my hands. I am leary, but would be willing to try it.

Fabian

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post #6 of 18 Old 05-29-2012, 12:59 AM
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I used it on hardi board for an outdoor smoker, it worked great. Kerosene took it right off my hands.
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post #7 of 18 Old 05-29-2012, 06:48 AM
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Dampen both glue joints with water before gluing. Only apply the glue to one joint.

R..
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post #8 of 18 Old 05-29-2012, 08:09 AM
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I don't like GG. For those applications needing a glue other than that, I'll use a PVA (white glue), aliphatic resin (yellow glue), urea formaldehyde, or a phenol formaldehyde, or a two part epoxy.






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post #9 of 18 Old 05-29-2012, 08:14 AM
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I've used it on a few things and really didn't like it. Gave up completely on using iy. I think the only cleaning approach is if it's not cured you can use a solvent...I used acetone, but that's probably not the one recommended.

"I long for the days when coke was a cola and a joint was a bad place to be" (Merle Haggard)
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post #10 of 18 Old 05-29-2012, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al B Thayer View Post
I was gluing up my dust collection ben and decided to use Gorilla Glue. I had tried it in the past once, but don't remember the application. I just remembered it expanded and think it will work well for this glue up.

Anybody have experience with this type of glue? Does it work well for certain applications but not others? Anyone ever use it on furniture building? Has it proven itself?

Anyone know the best way to wash it off your hands and fingers?

Al

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If you didn't know their are 2 kind's of gorila glue. The syurp color foam's and the white doesn't. When dryed nothing break's it down? Maybe the glove's work i don't know. But it say's use glove's for a reason. good luck on getting glue off. I only use the white color gc when i use it
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post #11 of 18 Old 05-29-2012, 10:43 AM
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One downside to GG I've found is it doesn't keep in the bottle as indefinitely as carpenter's glue does.
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post #12 of 18 Old 05-29-2012, 02:51 PM
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The GG works best with good tight joints, and lots of clamps or screws to hold things tight as it cures. The foaming that fills the gaps, also spread them. You will get the strongest joints if you wet both pieces of wood well, and then let them dry until the surface isn't visibly damp. The polyurethane needs water to cure. The more moisture, the more it foams. Conversely, it will wick deeper into the wood and give a stronger joint, if the water it needs, is in the pores of the wood.

All that said: In your application I would use one of the gun grade, polyurethane construction adhesives. It will give you a well filled joint of considerable strength, more than you will need. This is particularly true if you have joints designed to be glued and screwed.

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post #13 of 18 Old 05-29-2012, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice guys. I don't think I will use GG on projects that require a fine finish unless I'm sure I can remove the excess foam. It seems to have preformed how I want it to and while the joints, by design, are not tight. I'm going to trust the advice given stating it will work well or fine on joints that are not tight.

I didn't get much on my hands but do understand it would be best if gloves were worn. If there was something that removed the glue easily I would work without the gloves. Gloves can also be dangerous around power tools.

It would seem this GG would be somewhat more flexible than white or yellow glue and I have a very light design that will flex with use so I hope it has lasting quality.

I also know how warring a pair of rubber gloves any length of time will make even the most stubborn material curl off.

Al

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post #14 of 18 Old 05-29-2012, 04:37 PM
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I find these Polyurethane glues (like Gorilla Glue) to be disagreeable to work with. They are thick, messy, seem to get everywhere, and have a limited shelf life. I use them only when their unique properties are really needed--like for outdoor joints that aren't tight fitting.

For just a little more, you can do it yourself.
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post #15 of 18 Old 05-29-2012, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed_h
I find these Polyurethane glues (like Gorilla Glue) to be disagreeable to work with. They are thick, messy, seem to get everywhere, and have a limited shelf life. I use them only when their unique properties are really needed--like for outdoor joints that aren't tight fitting.
Okay, two votes for "used when joints not tight". I agree with you Ed, messy and not too easy to control. When you live in the more is better world, you surely get more with this GG.

Al

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post #16 of 18 Old 05-29-2012, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by del schisler

If you didn't know their are 2 kind's of gorila glue. The syurp color foam's and the white doesn't. When dryed nothing break's it down? Maybe the glove's work i don't know. But it say's use glove's for a reason. good luck on getting glue off. I only use the white color gc when i use it
Del I didn't. Haven't seen the white. But the foamy syrup is what I was looking for.

Thanks Al

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post #17 of 18 Old 05-30-2012, 03:05 PM
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To get it off your hands/fingers, IIRC the bottle says use mineral spirits while it's still wet. After it dries, I dunno...sandpaper, maybe.

Joe

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post #18 of 18 Old 05-30-2012, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by joek30296
To get it off your hands/fingers, IIRC the bottle says use mineral spirits while it's still wet. After it dries, I dunno...sandpaper, maybe.

Joe
I did get the little bit off my hands and next time I will get it off before it dries. If not, bring on the latex gloves.

Al

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