Which glue to use on top of old glue - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 08-05-2018, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Which glue to use on top of old glue

My kids' bunk beds' ladder's rungs are cylindrical wood glued into holes in the rails. They loosened so I tried to clean up the old yellow glue in the holes in the rail with vinegar but there is still a thin layer embedded in the grain.

Which wood glue should I now use the glue the rungs back in that has the best chance of bonding with any remaining old glue?

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post #2 of 9 Old 08-05-2018, 06:18 PM
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The only think I would use in that situation is epoxy.


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post #3 of 9 Old 08-05-2018, 07:50 PM
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I'd go with epoxy too.

I would also make sure to rough up the ends of the rungs and the holes so the epoxy has something to make a good mechanical bond with. I recently repaired a chair with the same issue. I used a dremel cutter like the one in the picture below on the inside the holes and a sawzall blade on the ends of the rails. My initial goal was just to rough up the inside of the hole, but it turned out to do a pretty good job of cleaning off the glue as well.

By the way, I used West System G-Flex epoxy. It's got a little more "give" than regular epoxy.
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post #4 of 9 Old 08-05-2018, 10:54 PM
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Wood glue works by soaking into the wood and turning to a plastic so that is the wrong adhesive for a reglue. You can use hide glue or epoxy when regluing.
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post #5 of 9 Old 08-05-2018, 11:35 PM
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Ive never used anything like this, but it might be an easy option to look into.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...at=1,110,30261





In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.
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post #6 of 9 Old 08-06-2018, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry Q View Post
Ive never used anything like this, but it might be an easy option to look into.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...at=1,110,30261





In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.

That chair glue also relies on penetration. So would not be good over old dried glue.


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post #7 of 9 Old 08-07-2018, 01:24 PM
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I would use an abrasive and get all the old glue out. A small flapper sander should do the trick. Or wrap an undersized dowel with self-adhesive sand paper and use that to clean it out.

https://www.amazon.com/Flap-Wheels-E...n%3A4539399011
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post #8 of 9 Old 08-07-2018, 02:32 PM
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[QUOTE=Packard;2001268]I would use an abrasive and get all the old glue out. A small flapper sander should do the trick. Or wrap an undersized dowel with self-adhesive sand paper and use that to clean it out.


The problem with that is the fact that in doing so, the hole will get bored out larger and the spindle will fit sloppily into it, because the wood glue penetrates into the wood. So the only way to get it all out is to remove some of the wood. There are ways to deal with that situation, but that's not the OP's question.
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post #9 of 9 Old 08-07-2018, 05:32 PM
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[quote=mmwood_1;2001290]
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Originally Posted by Packard View Post
I would use an abrasive and get all the old glue out. A small flapper sander should do the trick. Or wrap an undersized dowel with self-adhesive sand paper and use that to clean it out.


The problem with that is the fact that in doing so, the hole will get bored out larger and the spindle will fit sloppily into it, because the wood glue penetrates into the wood. So the only way to get it all out is to remove some of the wood. There are ways to deal with that situation, but that's not the OP's question.
It depends upon what you consider to be of greater importance.

1. Old glue residue that might compromise adhesion.

or

2. A subtly compromised fit with good adhesion.

I think the second choice is a better option. The there are going to be multiple rungs to lock in the uprights. The rungs are not being stressed in tension. They are going always to be stressed in the downward direction. So if the rungs are clamped in that direction the 70% or so contact will make a strong joint.

We don't know the original adhesive. It might have been assembled using hot glue, in which case the wood glue might not hold at all. He could wedge the rungs in the holes, but If I were worried I would cross pin them with 3/16" or 1/4" dowels (or even nails).

A dowel wrapped in sandpaper can be directed at the offending glue. If it is no longer a tight fit, then the best gap filling structural glue is probably epoxy. Gorilla glue gap fills well, but that fill is not structural.

So I agree with the epoxy if the fit is compromised to the point that it is no longer a snug fit. But I would clean out the old glue no matter what. Even epoxy might not adhere to something like hot glue, which is more wax like than anything else.
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