Glue question - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 19 Old 09-19-2016, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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Glue question

I've made a variety of small wood puzzles in the past consisting of cubes & rectangular blocks glued together to form the various puzzle pieces. Many times the glue, typically white glue or Titebond, has oozed out a bit, necessitating more cleanup & sanding than I would prefer. And I've generally felt the need to clamp the assemblies for a while to avoid misalignment.

I see that there cyanoacrylate adhesives intended for wood joinery & I wonder if they might be a better choice. I've used CA in non-woodworking applications, and enjoyed its relatively instant bonding properties.

What I'd like to be able to do is put a few drops on the pieces to be joined, hold them together for some number of seconds, & be able to put them aside without having them fall apart, with no glue squeezeout, and have the assembled pieces be strong enough to withstand handling by grandkids, dropping on the floor, etc., without coming apart. (The foregoing is among the longest sentences I've ever written, and may not be grammatically correct.) The pieces I have in mind would be, at their smallest, 3/4" cubes.

If anyone has used CA for similar applications, I'd appreciate hearing how well it works, and if it would meet my expectations.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 19 Old 09-19-2016, 09:04 PM
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Works great. Glue on 1 piece, accelerator on the other.

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OH, wait a minute ............Yep!.............That's what he said!

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post #3 of 19 Old 09-19-2016, 09:15 PM
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I never liked CA glue for wood. Regardless of the thickness the stuff never seem to hold together as well. I don't have a problem with wood glue. What ever oozes out is easily cleaned up with a wet rag.
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post #4 of 19 Old 09-19-2016, 11:29 PM
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Just finished redoing a picture frame I used CA for the thin profile.
Used tite bond on the second glue up and seems a lot stronger.

Cut it twice, measure once and it's still too short.
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post #5 of 19 Old 09-19-2016, 11:52 PM
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You could try this.


I haven't used it but I have heard good things. A video I have seen of it had no cleanup needed and it was strong enough to hold a 200 pound man.
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post #6 of 19 Old 09-20-2016, 01:53 AM
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Not sure of your application exactly, but have you tried a five minute epoxy? For smaller things in a low production setting where open time isn't an issue, it can be handy.
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post #7 of 19 Old 09-20-2016, 03:09 AM
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I use CA all the time on smaller stuff. It's not the strongest, the bond is pretty brittle actually, but for smaller parts that don't need a whole lot of strength the benefit of faster cure time outweighs the strength detriment

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post #8 of 19 Old 09-20-2016, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. I'll probably try the CA on a few sample pieces of the wood I'm going to use & see how strong the joint feels. The real test, of course, is when I give these things to the grandkids to play with!

I hadn't thought of using epoxy; that might be a good idea also. A small enough blob probably wouldn't ooze out, and the right formulation would grab & start to set pretty quickly.

When I get to cutting some of the pieces I'll post a pic so what I'm talking about might make more sense.
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post #9 of 19 Old 09-24-2016, 12:41 AM
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About the only thing I use CA for is to repair chipouts and the like.

I find the bonds to be way to brittle to last over time, especially if you use an activator for instant curing.
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post #10 of 19 Old 11-04-2016, 10:07 AM
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I've seen videos where normal CA is used then the guy sprays the activator at the joint, not on the glued face. Has anyone here tried that?
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post #11 of 19 Old 11-04-2016, 10:11 AM
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I have. It really doesn't work that way unless the joint is saturated with CA or activator.

Although, some of the newer formulations such as 2p-10 seem to be much less brittle, and I think they are specifically formulated for woodworking.

I still don't trust a joint glued that way to last over time though. JMHO

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post #12 of 19 Old 11-04-2016, 01:21 PM
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I was in a UAV unit in the military. The guys who flew the units were basically model airplane enthusiasts. They built and flew model airplanes as practice, so when they were flying the more expensive units ... well, you get the idea.
Anyway, the built complete airplanes using balsa, and all the joints were put together with CA glue and activator.
I never saw one of those joints break. Crashed aircraft would have broken struts and components, but the joints would still be whole.
I know, it's only balsa wood, but that glue held up under some pretty stressful flexing and use.

I am not advocating it's use for carpentry ... just saying it would probably work for your application, Steve.
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post #13 of 19 Old 11-04-2016, 11:24 PM
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I have not tryed these other CA glues but at www.starbond.com they have many different kinds of CA glue. They even have colored CA. I've been tempted to try their super strong CA.
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post #14 of 19 Old 11-05-2016, 09:25 AM
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If you have TB oozing out, you might try using a bit less. As mentioned, it is easy to clean with a damp rag.

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post #15 of 19 Old 11-05-2016, 02:11 PM
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I am constantly using Zapagap CA and activator for jigs, mock-ups, and some permanent glueups, works well and you are proposing a perfect use for it.
I like Zapagap because of the little nozzles they sell for it, allows very precise application with little to no glue where I don't want it. Sometimes, esp. endgrain, the glue gets sucked up into the wood and leaves a glue starved joint, so priming it is required. I would experiment with and without activator as I think activator may weaken the joint slightly.
One of the best uses for CA is for jigs or similar where it is OK to leave an exposed fillet of glue where the parts have a corner, like the inside of a drawer. After the initial glueup I run a bead of CA along the joint and then hit it with activator and it adds a lot to the strength.
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post #16 of 19 Old 11-06-2016, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pineknot_86 View Post
If you have TB oozing out, you might try using a bit less. As mentioned, it is easy to clean with a damp rag.
Pineknot_86 you beat me to it. My thoughts exactly. I used to over apply wood glue and then get frustrated by too much squeeze out. A thin layer spread across both surfaces provides enough strength and durability with little clean up involved.
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post #17 of 19 Old 11-06-2016, 02:34 PM
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One other thing to watch out for with CA glue is any residue from squeeze out may affect the subsequent finish. It also can leave a white stain behind that is difficult to see until the finish is applied.
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post #18 of 19 Old 11-07-2016, 12:10 AM
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Apply a little dab to the center of one of the pieces and sort of rub the two pieces together to spread the glue evenly and this will help reduce the creeping.
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post #19 of 19 Old 11-07-2016, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the continuing replies; more to think about for future projects.

I did a couple of test pieces with CA & Titebond. Titebond seemed to have a bit more breaking strength, so that's what I went with. As suggested, I used a very small amount & smoothed it with my fingertip to avoid any squeezeout.

All of them have gone to grandkids, with no reports of breakage yet!
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