Flush Trim Bit on Metal Guide - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 04-02-2012, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Flush Trim Bit on Metal Guide

Can you guide a flush trim bit with a bearing on the end with a metal guide. I.e., does the bearing separate the knives completely from the guide, or is there a bit of overlap? Potentially dumb question I know, but dont want to learn the hard way...
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post #2 of 12 Old 04-02-2012, 08:47 PM
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Not completely sure what you are asking but the entire bearing does not have to make contact with whatever is being flush trimmed
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post #3 of 12 Old 04-02-2012, 09:15 PM
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The bearing and the cutting edges should be the same diameter to make it a flush trim bit. However, there is a small space between the bearing and the cutter. A metal pattern would work provided it does not extend far enough so the cutting edges strike it.

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post #4 of 12 Old 04-02-2012, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnie52 View Post
The bearing and the cutting edges should be the same diameter to make it a flush trim bit.
The cutting edges are a microscopic dimension smaller in diameter than the bearing. Even on top brand new flush trim bits, when trimming off a laminate top to the laminate covered edge, the edge doesn't get scuffed at all. The overhang is slightly heavy. I find that true when also doing wood/laminate trims.






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post #5 of 12 Old 04-02-2012, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for the responses so far. This is a 1/4" bit (Bosch) I'm using, and the bearing is real skinny, plus there is a small gap between the bearing and the start of the cutting edges. So to get the bearing to "ride" completely on the metal guide, plus accommodate the gap between the bearing and the cutting edges, I will have to lower the bit to a depth where a part of the cutting edges are over the metal guide. In such a case I was worried about them scuffing against the metal, or am I concerned about nothing here. FYI, I am new to routers...
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post #6 of 12 Old 04-02-2012, 11:34 PM
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Give us the big picture, what are you trying to do?
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post #7 of 12 Old 04-03-2012, 12:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JollyRoger808 View Post
Can you guide a flush trim bit with a bearing on the end with a metal guide. I.e., does the bearing separate the knives completely from the guide, or is there a bit of overlap? Potentially dumb question I know, but dont want to learn the hard way...
Hi Roger - I routinely use the table saw throat plate for making zero clearance inserts for it. That's only about a sixteenth thick. If your nervous, you can shim it away from the workpiece a bit with some thin cardboard or MDF. Without knowing what you're trying to do it's kinda tuff to make suggestions.

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post #8 of 12 Old 04-03-2012, 04:38 AM Thread Starter
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Big picture... Here goes... I'm building a built-in closet, which essentially consists of three boxes. The box I'm busy with now measures 34" wide by 88" high by 24" deep. There's one shelve half-way up. I have the sides ripped and ready to go (cut 1/2" wider with skill saw, followed by "honing-in" rips on the table saw). Problem is with the 34" back panel, since my contractor style table saw can't rip that wide (and I would uncomfortable doing it as well). So the plan is to do a rough rip with the skill saw, and then bring to dimension with a router and straight edge guide (I have a long metal one that is clamped on). I have never used a router before, so my first attempts at this consisted of running the edge of the router base plate against the guide (no bearing on bit), but had a hard time gauging the depth of the cut. So next I'm going to try this cut by clamping the guide right on the cut line, and use a pilot flush trim bit running against the guide (clamped to the bottom). My fear though is that the bit will scuff against the metal guide.
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post #9 of 12 Old 04-03-2012, 04:45 AM
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Did you read post #4? The flutes should not scuff the metal. The bit you are using (1/4") is very narrow. I would prefer to use a 1/2" trim bit. If you are concerned, use a wood straightedge.






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post #10 of 12 Old 04-03-2012, 11:02 AM
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I may have overlooked this but is your bit a top or bottom bearing bit.?
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post #11 of 12 Old 04-03-2012, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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Did you read post #4? The flutes should not scuff the metal. The bit you are using (1/4") is very narrow. I would prefer to use a 1/2" trim bit. If you are concerned, use a wood straightedge.






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Thanks Mate! I did read message #4, but I wasn't using the "quote" function in response to another posters question. I'm getting there...
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post #12 of 12 Old 04-03-2012, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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I may have overlooked this but is your bit a top or bottom bearing bit.?
This would be a bottom bearing bit. I live on a small island in the middle of the Pacific, so I have to make do with whats in the local shops (if I want it right away).
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