Fixing Warped Tabletop - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 11-03-2014, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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Fixing Warped Tabletop

This weekend we squared up & glued two 10x36 paduak 4/4 boards to be used for a new standup desk. A little too late, we noticed one end of one board was warped.

We should have noticed before we bought it, but didn't. It went through the planer ok. Water under the bridge, er money out of the wallet, now. Dangit.

...And my image won't upload. It's warped about 1/4 inch in one corner, diagnonally about half way on each sice. Copy and paste this link to see for yourself:

http://i57.tinypic.com/el8qar.jpg

Is there a way to fix this? My wife thinks we could rip the offending side into smaller pieces, flip, biscuit, and re-plane. I predict frustration and a waste of time. We'd like to avoid buying more wood, but I'm not sure if that's possible at this point.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 8 Old 11-03-2014, 01:20 PM
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No more than it's warped I think the framework of the table should pull it down.
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post #3 of 8 Old 11-03-2014, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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the desk will essentially be a rectangular box supported by four legs. the warped piece was to be the botton of the box. i'm not sure i can cut the dovetails straight & have all the pieces line up properly at assembly time.

it's a real biter. that wood wasn't cheap!
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post #4 of 8 Old 11-03-2014, 05:27 PM
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I'm not really picturing what you are building. If you get someone to hold down the opposite corner, the amount of pressure it takes to push the board down to the table is all the pressure you will be fighting against. I doubt if it will be very much.
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post #5 of 8 Old 11-03-2014, 07:31 PM
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I wouldn't want to try to cut fine joinery in a warped board. You're bound to be frustrated. I'm guessing you bought the lumber S4S? Do you have a jointer?
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post #6 of 8 Old 11-04-2014, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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bzwat -

the board was originally 72x10 4/4, pre-planed on two sides. we jointed one edge & skim-planed the top/bottom. had we thought to run a second surface on the jointer, we would have found the warp earlier. oops.

a thorough root-cause analysis was performed & determined that we should have checked the board before purchasing it. my bad.

we checked, and it takes significant pressure to force the corner flat.

i bought another (carpenter's dream, this time) board yesterday which will become the bottom surface. we should be able to use most of the warped board for the sides/stringers/etc.

the desk will be similar to the one in the picture below. essentially, a hollow rectangle with angled oak legs.

... and my picture-posting skills are still lacking, so you'll need to click the link below.

http://www.homedit.com/ikea-standing-desk/
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post #7 of 8 Old 11-04-2014, 01:11 PM
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I very rarely buy any lumber that is already surfaced, because I don't trust anyone else (especially a retail outlet) to flatten & joint my stock for me.
Not only that, it is better to work the stock flat in your own shop where it can acclimate to your relative humidity. This way you still have a chance of catching a potential warp/twist in the event that it freaks out after it's milled.
But be careful - if you do it all yourself then there's nobody else to blame if it's wonky lol
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post #8 of 8 Old 11-04-2014, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BZawat View Post
I very rarely buy any lumber that is already surfaced, because I don't trust anyone else (especially a retail outlet) to flatten & joint my stock for me.
Not only that, it is better to work the stock flat in your own shop where it can acclimate to your relative humidity. This way you still have a chance of catching a potential warp/twist in the event that it freaks out after it's milled.
But be careful - if you do it all yourself then there's nobody else to blame if it's wonky lol
+1

Fill your heart with compassion, seek the jewel in every soul, share a word of kindness, and remember; the people's what it's about.
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