Finish trim work fasteners - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 5 Old 02-10-2018, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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Finish trim work fasteners

I have some trim work to do on small material for casing on doors, cabinetry trim, etc. What do you use to attach small wood pieces together? I have a finish nailer and a brad nailer but I think our cabinet guy and finish guy when we built about 6 years ago used a pin nailer for most of the small pieces. Wondering if that is the goto now for small wood pieces.

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post #2 of 5 Old 02-10-2018, 12:23 PM
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With trim, rather than being fastened together they will be fastened to the door casing or cabinet itself. If the trim is bulky/heavy I'd use a finish nailer since it'll have a stronger hold. If the trim work is light a brad nailer would be the way to go. The heads are smaller and require little to no putty work before painting or staining.
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post #3 of 5 Old 02-10-2018, 01:10 PM
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The only time I will use my pin gun is to hold the parts until the glue dries, they don't have much holding power.
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post #4 of 5 Old 02-10-2018, 03:20 PM
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To set door casings you need to use at minimum of 16 gauge finish nails.
For closet shelving 16 gauge minimum.
For door and window trim, base molds, chair rail and crown molds, an 18 gauge or 16 gauge nail will work.
For small decorative moldings an 18 gauge or pin.
Use a headless pin (usually 19-23 gauge) where you donít want any nail head visible.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #5 of 5 Old 02-11-2018, 10:35 PM
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As said in the other forums you've posted this question in, I use 18 gauge for holding power, colored head nails just because, and I vary the air pressure to control depth of pierce to avoid canyons or splits in the material being fastened.

I adjust pressure on scrap, and have a regulator immediately at the work site, not at the compressor. It goes compressor, 100 feet of line (which serves as an extra "tank"), then regulator, then a coil hose (those yellow helix things that are supposed to stretch out to fifty feet but I rarely stretch mine out beyond 10 feet), then IRAX swivel joint or equivalent, then pneumatic brad nail gun (mine is a Bostich B135). The ammo brads have T heads, and I align the head of the T with the grain of the wood, if tacking stain grade trim.

The randomization of the grain line, combined with the pre painted ammo, makes the fasteners disappear, even without finishing.
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