Finish length for bevels amd miters - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 09-29-2018, 07:32 AM Thread Starter
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Finish length for bevels amd miters

Hello I am new here and have a question. Sorry if this has beem answered before.

Question is when a length is called with a degree what is the total length?

Ex. Someone says cut a 30" piece with 22.5 degree bevel. Is the finished length 30" or is it 30"+bevel degree? I am assuming it is the former.

Also besides a window frame when would you measure from the inside (heel) as opposed to the outside (toe) i hope those terms are correct.

Any advice is much appreciated.
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post #2 of 17 Old 09-29-2018, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mixwell View Post
Hello I am new here and have a question. Sorry if this has beem answered before.

Question is when a length is called with a degree what is the total length?

Ex. Someone says cut a 30" piece with 22.5 degree bevel. Is the finished length 30" or is it 30"+bevel degree? I am assuming it is the former.

Also besides a window frame when would you measure from the inside (heel) as opposed to the outside (toe) i hope those terms are correct.

Any advice is much appreciated.
Probably means to run the bevel on one long edge. It could be both edges and it could be one edge and one end and it could be all four sides.

I assume you are trying to interpret someones plans. It would help if we had a picture of the finished project so we would know the application of the part or parts in question.
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post #3 of 17 Old 09-29-2018, 09:01 AM
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. . .

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Last edited by John Smith_inFL; 09-29-2018 at 09:43 AM.
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post #4 of 17 Old 09-29-2018, 11:02 AM
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"Ex. Someone says cut a 30" piece with 22.5 degree bevel. Is the finished length 30" or is it 30"+bevel degree? I am assuming it is the former."

The stated length is generally the overall length, so from the above sentence I would take it to mean a piece 30" long and one end cut at 22.5 degrees, but as has been mentioned circumstances may dictate the meaning. For example it could mean a piece 30" long, square ends and one edge bevelled at 22.5 degrees.

From the above examples I would say cut 30" long with one end mitered at 22.5 degrees, or cut 30" long and bevel one edge at 22.5 degrees.

Today we have a lot of plans available on the internet written up by people, simply to sell ads, that have little or no experience working with wood so any "common practice" terms mean nothing to them.
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Last edited by FrankC; 09-29-2018 at 11:10 AM.
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post #5 of 17 Old 09-29-2018, 06:13 PM
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one of my pet peeves ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mixwell View Post
Hello I am new here and have a question. Sorry if this has beem answered before.

Question is when a length is called with a degree what is the total length?

Ex. Someone says cut a 30" piece with 22.5 degree bevel. Is the finished length 30" or is it 30"+bevel degree? I am assuming it is the former.

Also besides a window frame when would you measure from the inside (heel) as opposed to the outside (toe) i hope those terms are correct.

Any advice is much appreciated.
When is a miter a bevel? Not ever in my opinion. On a table saw, miters are made using the miter gauge. Bevels are made by tilting the saw blade, and running the piece against the fence for it's entire length.

Miters are made across the grain, and bevels run with the grain. Depending on the width of the piece, you can make either using either method and that's where the confusion may arise.

In your example, you cut a piece 30" long and then make a bevel down the length at 22.5 degrees. Otherwise the instruction should be make a piece 30" and "miter" the end at 22.5 degrees.
That's my .02$
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 09-29-2018 at 06:17 PM.
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post #6 of 17 Old 09-29-2018, 07:48 PM
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that is why I deleted my earlier response - I don't fully understand
the question enough to provide an accurate answer.
if a drawing from an instruction sheet or set of plans is available,
that might clarify things a little.

.

.

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post #7 of 17 Old 09-29-2018, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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I was referring to when a bevel is on both ends. The scenario is for the legs of a saw horse to have 22.5 deg bevels on both ends. Here is the video link on youtube I was referring to with the dimensions. The confusing part is having 2 bevels and the toe ends on opposite sides of the board and measuring them . Thanks.

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post #8 of 17 Old 09-29-2018, 08:40 PM
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depends on the width of the matrerial

You can bevel the ends of a 2 X 4 is two ways depending on which tool you have. On a table saw tilt the blade over to 22.5 degrees and use the miter gauge at 90 degrees like any other crosscut. On a miter saw, either sliding compound or tilt head, set your head over to 22.5 degrees and make you cut at 0 degrees on the table.

Now with the miter saw, you can also set the table to 22.5 degrees and leave the head at 90 degrees in this case because a 2 X 4 can be cut with a 12" blade standing on edge. .... as I said material width AND then the specific capacity of the tool/saw. I don't know if a 10" miter saw with cut a 2 X 4 on edge, but it might. Given the choice, I would use the 22.5 degree fence setting on the miter saw.

In the case of your sawhorses, nothing is super critical as far as leg length goes. It's kinda arbitrary. If the plans call for a 30" leg length, then I'd make them 30" from acute angle to the obtuse angle as you would lay your tape down on the sides and make a mark at 30". Then you would cut to the mark OR if you want them identical set up a stop along an extended fence and bump the acute angle cuts against the stop. That way measure once, cut 4 times.

But then again, you could always use a radial arm saw .....

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 09-29-2018 at 08:46 PM.
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post #9 of 17 Old 09-29-2018, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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I was using a regular miter saw with the edge against the fence. It's an old makita and I'm thinking about drilling holes in the metal so i can attach a 1x3 or something for a longer fence to setup a stop block for longer cuts in the future.

I was thinking about getting a cheap sliding miter saw as cutting anything wider than a 2x4 doesnt cut all the way through. I dont care for compound because I usually turn th le wood on edge and adjust to the degree for bevels.

Thanks for the help.
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post #10 of 17 Old 09-30-2018, 12:12 AM
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I can't watch the video but the legs would be 30" long point to point with the 22 1/2 degree angle angled the same direction both top and bottom.

Those are pretty poor unstable saw horses. Are you sure you want those? The one end with the straight leg would wobble pretty bad.
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post #11 of 17 Old 09-30-2018, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
When is a miter a bevel? Not ever in my opinion. On a table saw, miters are made using the miter gauge. Bevels are made by tilting the saw blade, and running the piece against the fence for it's entire length.

Miters are made across the grain, and bevels run with the grain. Depending on the width of the piece, you can make either using either method and that's where the confusion may arise.

In your example, you cut a piece 30" long and then make a bevel down the length at 22.5 degrees. Otherwise the instruction should be make a piece 30" and "miter" the end at 22.5 degrees.
That's my .02$

This is the terminology I would certainly use.



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post #12 of 17 Old 09-30-2018, 08:03 AM
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I've always thought of bevel cuts running in any of the longer dimensions of a workpiece. As an example, the base pieces of a table lamp I recently finished (photo below) have what I'd call bevels on their upper edges, even though some are with the grain & some are across. Of course, what I think isn't always going to match what others think, so a picture, drawing, plan, etc., is always best.
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post #13 of 17 Old 09-30-2018, 12:55 PM
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When cutting an angle, the total length is always measured from the longest point to point regardless of the degree of the angle.
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post #14 of 17 Old 09-30-2018, 02:06 PM
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Double post, site loads really slow this AM

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post #15 of 17 Old 09-30-2018, 02:07 PM
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We could play word games all day long, it basically comes down to preference or popular use of the terms.

The length is always the distance between the two farthest points at each end of an object.

An angled cut is a bevel, two angled cuts make a mitered joint.

A mitered cut is one half of a mitered joint, if there is no joint it is a bevel cut.

Mitered cuts will often be marked using a sliding bevel tool.

A beveled edge may also be referred to as a chamfer.

Thiis is why it helps when a plan has good instructions and drawings.
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post #16 of 17 Old 09-30-2018, 03:03 PM
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when in doubt do a search using each term

https://mitersawhub.com/miter-cut-vs-bevel-cut/

Chamfer vs bevel:
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/566468459364998787/

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=41197

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #17 of 17 Old 09-30-2018, 03:20 PM
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Don't believe everything you read on the internet because I wrote a bunch of it.

http://sawdustmaking.com/GLOSSARY/gl...dworking_t.htm
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