Filling screw holes to rescrew - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 11-29-2017, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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Filling screw holes to rescrew

I have a rather ambitious project going on. I am taking an old display case and making it into a humidor. The bottom of it actually had a large Marble Slab. I unscrewed the old screws that held the slab to the wood. Now I wish to fill in the holes in such a way that I can put new screws in to reattach the marble to the bottom. Any ideas and or product recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much.
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post #2 of 14 Old 11-29-2017, 10:47 AM
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When I need to do that, I glue in as many toothpicks that will fit comfortably in the hole. Of course, I cut them flush after the glue has dried. Then I can put in a new screw and it holds.
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... turning perfectly good wood into firewood every day ... :smile3:
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post #3 of 14 Old 11-29-2017, 01:26 PM
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I sometimes use toothpicks. But, I prefer to insert as large a dowel as I can get into the hole. Glued in of course. If necessary I will predrill for the dowel.

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post #4 of 14 Old 12-11-2017, 01:53 AM
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Square pegs into round holes. Sorry the picture is blurry.

Filling screw holes to rescrew-img_0129.jpg
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post #5 of 14 Old 12-11-2017, 04:45 PM
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Iím having a hard time understanding your problem. If the screw goes through the wood into marble, the holes should be fine as is. If the screw goes first through the marble first and screws into the wood I wonder why it was designed that way. I wouldnít want screw heads visible on top of my marble.
Depending on the size, Marble is so heavy, we sometimes donít even need to screw it down. A thin layer of silicon will hold it firmly in place.
I know this isnít a kitchen but for example on kitchen cabinets covered with a marble countertop there are no visible screws.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #6 of 14 Old 12-11-2017, 06:24 PM
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If at all possible I just use a fatter screw. Gluing a stick in the hole works but it doesn't hold for as long.
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post #7 of 14 Old 12-12-2017, 06:35 AM
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If an oversize or slightly longer screw isnít an option, I would recommend making plugs (not dowels) and gluing them into the appropriate size holes. Then drill and screw as usual. The cross grain of a plug holds better than the end grain of a dowel.

Toolmanís idea of silicone is a good one. I attached a glass vase to a wood base a while back using silicone. I always figured that Iíd be able to just pull it off when the time came, but when I tried to remove it, it just wouldnít come off. I ended up having to saw it off. The only problem with silicone is that it has an unpleasant smell that can take a long time to go away as it cures; something that might not be good for cigars.
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post #8 of 14 Old 12-17-2017, 02:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
If at all possible I just use a fatter screw. Gluing a stick in the hole works but it doesn't hold for as long.
Driving a square peg into a round hole (with glue) works perfectly. If it can hold on a boat it can hold on anything.

Epicurus....
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post #9 of 14 Old 12-17-2017, 05:25 AM
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I used to fill holes with resin (Plastic Padding) car filler and redrill. Never a problem.
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post #10 of 14 Old 12-17-2017, 05:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4ND3R5 View Post
Driving a square peg into a round hole (with glue) works perfectly. If it can hold on a boat it can hold on anything.
After you have been around a while you will start seeing holes which have been pegged several times. It doesn't make it good as new.
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post #11 of 14 Old 12-17-2017, 06:54 AM
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I fill the old hole with Wood Hardener, then glue a dowel in that's been dipped in Wood Hardener making sure it's long enough to completely fill the void.
Let it dry, cut it, sand it, screw it. Never had one come loose, ever.

"Error of opinion may be tolerated where reason is left free to combat it"


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post #12 of 14 Old 12-17-2017, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
After you have been around a while you will start seeing holes which have been pegged several times. It doesn't make it good as new.
Thatís why you do it correctly the first time so you donít have to keep plugging the hole. :)

Epicurus....
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post #13 of 14 Old 12-17-2017, 07:50 PM
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Thatís why you do it correctly the first time so you donít have to keep plugging the hole. :)
It's just that what ever stress caused the screw to strip the wood out in the first place will pull out the plug easier. It has very little to do with how well the plug is put in.
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post #14 of 14 Old 12-17-2017, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
It's just that what ever stress caused the screw to strip the wood out in the first place will pull out the plug easier. It has very little to do with how well the plug is put in.
I am sorry, but I have to respectfully disagree. When replanking boats we would drive square pegs into the old spike or lag bolt holes on the frames, hang the replacement planks, and then refasten. A lot of this was on work boats, that would take a lot of abuse. Peoples lives were literally at stake. The boats were repaired and performed as like new.
Boats, especially work boats withstand a tremendous amount of abuse, and the fastenings always held in the repaired fastening holes.
This type of repair isnít anything new. Shipwrights have been doing this for hundreds of years. It is a tried and true method that is trusted by boat builders world wide. I believe fixing an old worn out hole in a piece of furniture using this method is not only easy, but also a permanent fix.

Epicurus....
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