File hanging drawer question - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 04-26-2008, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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File hanging drawer question

Hey, I am building a very nice file cabinet and have everything already built and am now at the sanding stage. The only problem is that I realized that I did not plan for the hanging rods that the hooks on the sides of the files hang on. The draws are already built so I cant instal rods directly into the wood, And there is no clearance at the top of the draws for something like this to work: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=212

Please help me, I would like to think that I did not spend all of this time making a file cabinet that cant hold files.
Thanks.
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post #2 of 6 Old 04-27-2008, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loren View Post
Hey, I am building a very nice file cabinet and have everything already built and am now at the sanding stage. The only problem is that I realized that I did not plan for the hanging rods that the hooks on the sides of the files hang on. The draws are already built so I cant instal rods directly into the wood, And there is no clearance at the top of the draws for something like this to work: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=212

Please help me, I would like to think that I did not spend all of this time making a file cabinet that cant hold files.
Thanks.

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There's an easy solution to your problem. Solving what you do depends on the size you made the drawer. The inside of the drawer must be wider than the metal tabs on the Pendaflex type file folders. The inside height must be enough to clear the tabs of a file folder so the drawer opens and closes without rubbing. Also allow enough height to add index tabs to the top of the folders if you desire.

You can use 1/8" x " flat metal bar stock for your hanging rails. You can use the table saw (1/8" saw blade kerf) or can be done with a hand saw, or jig saw, and cut 2 slots in the front and 2 in the back of the drawer pieces to a depth that when the " bar stock is tapped down and the file is hung on it, an empty file folder won't rub on the bottom of the drawer.

Once you have determined the distance between the slots (for letter, and for legal), a one time fence set-up will do the slots by running the drawer upside down through the saw. This has to be done as the drawer is already together. But, the good news is, if you set up right, it comes out perfect.

The length of the bar stock should be the length of the drawer (outside measurement). The slots can be any depth, and the file folders slide nicely on 1/8" stock. That stuff is pretty cheap, and I think it's sold at the box stores in the hardware section.

If all else fails, and there is enough room inside the drawer for clearance, you could use a drawer rack, like this.






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post #3 of 6 Old 04-27-2008, 08:39 PM
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If you made the drawers about 3/16" wider than the hanging folders you can use 1/2"x1/2" aluminum "L" stock. Screw it onto the top edge of the drawers. This is how I make all of mine, works good and the aluminum is slippery and the folders slide well.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
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post #4 of 6 Old 04-28-2008, 12:39 AM
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How deep are your drawers? (bottom of drawers to bottom of above rail)? If the folders need to rest on the bottom of the drawer...Try using 1/4" wood dividers. Rick

Never... I mean always... never mind Rick
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post #5 of 6 Old 04-28-2008, 06:45 AM
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Staples or one of those places, sells a thing you put in the drawer. It's basically 12 pieces of chrome rod made into the shape of the drawer. It just sits in the drawer.
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post #6 of 6 Old 04-28-2008, 11:06 AM
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Many office supply stores carry a file holding rack which you can assemble in your drawer.

Gerry
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