Fence to Miter Slot Parallel Settings - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 04-22-2011, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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Fence to Miter Slot Parallel Settings

My Unisaw fence was 0.02" closer to the blade at the rear than the front. I adjusted it to where the rear of the fence is 0.005" farther from the blade than the front.

The blade is between 0.001" and 0.002" from being perfectly parallel, so I think that the 0.005" on the fence is good. What is your suggestions regarding the settings? Are they good like I think or should I tweek them some more. I would like to have the rear of the fence a little farther from the blade than the front.

Thanks.

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post #2 of 18 Old 04-22-2011, 12:32 PM
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My Unisaw fence was 0.02" closer to the blade at the rear than the front. I adjusted it to where the rear of the fence is 0.005" farther from the blade than the front.

The blade is between 0.001" and 0.002" from being perfectly parallel, so I think that the 0.005" on the fence is good. What is your suggestions regarding the settings? Are they good like I think or should I tweek them some more. I would like to have the rear of the fence a little farther from the blade than the front.

Thanks.
Decimal notations just confuse me. I'm just a simple guy. I like the fence parallel to the slot/blade. Why start off with a problem.








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post #3 of 18 Old 04-22-2011, 01:24 PM
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i'm with c-man on this one. for the main reason if you ever position the fence on the other side of the blade, you will be pinching by 0.005"!
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post #4 of 18 Old 04-22-2011, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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i'm with c-man on this one. for the main reason if you ever position the fence on the other side of the blade, you will be pinching by 0.005"!
I never have used a fence to the left of the blade after 10 years of owning a saw. Unless the blade is perfectly parallel, a perfectly parallel fence would have the same problem.
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post #5 of 18 Old 04-22-2011, 01:58 PM
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I never have used a fence to the left of the blade after 10 years of owning a saw. Unless the blade is perfectly parallel, a perfectly parallel fence would have the same problem.
How do you figure that? Blade parallel to slot, fence parallel to both slot and blade.








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post #6 of 18 Old 04-22-2011, 02:17 PM
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When you start talking about thousandths (.00x) of an inch, and you are as close as you are, I really don't think that would really be a factor in pinching, or alignment. The saw will cut straight enough for any project that you throw at it. IF it was hundreths (.0x) of an inch, then that MIGHT factor into a problem, but I highly doubt it.

We are woodworkers, not machinists. Our tolerances in the pieces we cut do not need to be precise, IMO.

That being said, I think your saw is set up just fine. You might lose your mind trying to get it dialed in perfectly.

Fabian

Fabian

I used to be fairly indecisive, but now....... I'm not so sure.
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post #7 of 18 Old 04-22-2011, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cabinetman

How do you figure that? Blade parallel to slot, fence parallel to both slot and blade.




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Most blades are off by 1 or 2 thousandths of an inch. That means a fence off by zero inches will pinch on one side or the other. I would love to know how many fences are off by zero thousandths of an inch. We are splitting hairs here. I am using a sensitive gauge to measure, so I am seeing the thousandths if an inch.

If it is possible to be perfect on the blade and fence, we would still have to deal with arbor or blade run out.
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post #8 of 18 Old 04-22-2011, 02:26 PM
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Most blades are off by 1 or 2 thousandths of an inch.
If that's the case, the out of parallel would show when measured at different parts of the blade. In cutting it would leave a larger kerf (which is another check). Maybe you should buy better blades. You can drive yourself crazy with trying to get zeros.








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post #9 of 18 Old 04-22-2011, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cabinetman

If that's the case, the out of parallel would show when measured at different parts of the blade. In cutting it would leave a larger kerf (which is another check). Maybe you should buy better blades. You can drive yourself crazy with trying to get zeros.




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I should have said the front and back of the blade are 1 to 2 thousands an inch from being perfectly parallel to the miter slot. My blade is a Freud Premium Fusion, which is a pretty good blade.
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post #10 of 18 Old 04-22-2011, 02:34 PM
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Decimal notations just confuse me. I'm just a simple guy.
0.001 inches is also known as a 'mil' (1/1000 of an inch). 'Mil' should not to be confused with a millimeter (1/1000 of a meter).

To the OP, if your set error for the fence front to back of the blade is smaller than the side of the blade to the outside of the kerf, your blade should not pinch as the cut should have clearance from the blade. Remember that if you veer one side away from the blade, you are veering the other side toward the blade.
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post #11 of 18 Old 04-22-2011, 03:03 PM
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I would set it as close as parallel as possible without getting to obsessed about zeros and have any measurable deviation go away from the blade on the side I use the most. Ur setup can be pretty badly out and still cut it is wood afterall. And especially if we're talking thousandths of an inch. But I agree with what was said about starting with a problem. All these little deviations can sometimes add up. Just my opinion.
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post #12 of 18 Old 04-22-2011, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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I will work on it some more, but we are talking about really small turns of the fence allen wrench screws.
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post #13 of 18 Old 04-22-2011, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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OK. The fence front edge and back edge are the same as I can not visually tell a difference on my gauge. The center of the fence is actually not flat, so it is a couple of thousanths of an inch away from the blade.

The blade is within 1 to 2 thousanths of an inch. If you add the thousanths from the blade and center of the fence, it is less than the kerf of the blade.

After doing all of this, I read that I had it correct before at 5 thousandths of an inch based on my blade instructions, which state to make the rear of the fence 0.005 to 0.015 inches different from the front.

With my settings, I don't anticipate any problems, so I am leaving the blade 1 to 2 thousanths different front to rear (closest I can get it) and the fence at an undetectable different from front to rear.

I really think we were splitting hairs, but the only thing left to do is clean my table saw top and wax it with Johnson's Paste Wax.
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post #14 of 18 Old 04-22-2011, 05:18 PM
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I really think we were splitting hairs, but the only thing left to do is clean my table saw top and wax it with Johnson's Paste Wax.
There ya go...might as well contaminate all the wood you'll be pushin' thru. Oh, forgot to add... the contaminated dust created that goes airborne in your shop, by cutting that wood.







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post #15 of 18 Old 04-22-2011, 05:18 PM
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I really think we were splitting hairs, but the only thing left to do is clean my table saw top and wax it with Johnson's Paste Wax.

And then its time to fire that bad boy up and start making some firewood!!!!!!

Fabian

I used to be fairly indecisive, but now....... I'm not so sure.
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post #16 of 18 Old 04-22-2011, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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There ya go...might as well contaminate all the wood you'll be pushin' thru. Oh, forgot to add... the contaminated dust created that goes airborne in your shop, by cutting that wood.

.
Around here I need some protection for the top. Also, many woodworkers use Johnson's paste wax (used on wood anyway), which is why I am trying it. I do have a dust collector and air filtration unit and cartridge mask and ear muffs.

Any idea of a better protectant for the top?
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post #17 of 18 Old 04-22-2011, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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And then its time to fire that bad boy up and start making some firewood!!!!!!
I would love too, but I need to run some 240 to the garage first, LOL.
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post #18 of 18 Old 04-22-2011, 06:13 PM
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Any idea of a better protectant for the top?
I sure do...Top Cote.








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