Exposed edge plywood cabinets - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 19 Old 08-24-2016, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Exposed edge plywood cabinets

Hi Woodworkers,
I am building some cabinets for my garage and really like the look of these modern plywood cabinets where the edge is exposed. Any advice on how to achieve this look? Also want to make sure I have a good idea on how to plan for hinges and drawer slides.

Thanks!
mj

reference: https://www.pinterest.com/explore/plywood-cabinets/
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post #2 of 19 Old 08-24-2016, 01:30 PM
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the carcass of a cabinet can have a face frame attached to the front edge or not. those a frameless (or European style I think). what also contributes tot he look is the door position with respect to the cabinet. most in your pic are full inset doors, meaning the door sits entirely into the cabinet, leaving you a full view of the plywood edge (covered with a veneer/laminate strip. much fitting is required to achieve a consistent gap around the door. just look for hinges/hardware for frameless cabinets.
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post #3 of 19 Old 08-24-2016, 02:01 PM
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You can use regular hinges, as long you don't mind seeing the pinned part of the hinge. If you don't want anything but wood, you'll need special hinges that swing the door out a little, as well as "open".
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post #4 of 19 Old 08-24-2016, 02:33 PM
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Using Baltic Birch for the carcase would look best if the edges are going to be exposed. That's not for me - too expensive for a garage.
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post #5 of 19 Old 08-24-2016, 02:57 PM
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just look at any European style cabinet as far as construction and installing hardware goes, Baltic birch is more stable and looks better in my opinion.

Don't fasten any hinges to the edge of the plywood, the screws will pull out eventually, use a Euro style that fastens to the inside face of the carcass.

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post #6 of 19 Old 08-24-2016, 04:56 PM
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The pictures posted are just standard Euro cabinets with sheet-good/plywood square edges as opposed to solid wood with profile.
I literally made thousands of these boxes in a production shop in Florida.
Skip face-framing unless you are really in love with that look, waste of time and money for slab door look shown.
Baltic birch is way too expensive, it only provides a little more stability, marginal for this application.
The only viable reason to spend that money on plywood that has no voids if you like the edges with plies to show.
This incidentally comes in inconvenient Euro-sizes, (not 4' X 8"), is if you do not want to use cheap iron-on or peel & stick edge banding, then I guess go for it, I would not.
Most people use Baltic for drawers so they can profile edges for clean void-less solid wood-like edge.
Euro hinges all day long, clean hidden hinge look with 6 way adjustment.
Easiest way by far to keep all doors aligned perfectly straight.
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post #7 of 19 Old 08-25-2016, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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thanks guys! Yes, the baltic is a bit more expensive, so I may go with a cheaper solution for the garage (so I can get the process figured out--i'd like to eventually use in a kitchen application.)

One thing i've had difficulty with in the past, is figuring out the correct hinge size to match the doors and opening. As was mentioned, 1/8" in the wrong direction can look obviously bad.

The second question is how to achieve that super clean plywood edge. REI has some display units that use the same technique, and it looks so clean and sharp.

You all are rad and super helpful!

mj
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post #8 of 19 Old 08-25-2016, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mj_finn View Post

One thing i've had difficulty with in the past, is figuring out the correct hinge size to match the doors and opening. As was mentioned, 1/8" in the wrong direction can look obviously bad.
Concealed hinges are not that difficult once you learn what info is needed to get the correct hinge and mounting plate for your application.

Here are 3 types of Blum Clip Top 120* self close hinges, and the mounting plate, that would work for your inset door application.

They also offer soft close and free swinging hinges.

You pick the reveal you want and that will give you the hinge cup boring distance from the edge of the door.

Mounting plate boring distance is also provided + the thickness of your door.
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post #9 of 19 Old 08-25-2016, 01:50 PM
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Clean, sharp edges ....
Quality plywood, sharp saw blades, good sanding system. Cut slightly larger dimension than you need and sand down to the proper dimension.
You might need a good filler to correct small chips and holes.
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post #10 of 19 Old 08-25-2016, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by mikechell View Post
Clean, sharp edges ....
Quality plywood, sharp saw blades, good sanding system. Cut slightly larger dimension than you need and sand down to the proper dimension.
I have to disagree with this, panels cut on a table saw have clean edges, material loss from sanding is negligible.
If you try to sand too much you will wind up with out of square material with edges less than straight.
If you use peel & stick or iron on edge banding there is no sanding needed and you get a finished look like a slab of solid wood rather than the the plies showing.
Raw edges are by almost anyone's standards unprofessional, unfinished.
Link to edge-banding....http://www.cabinethardware.com/Peel-...ing-p/1110.htm

Last edited by bzguy; 08-25-2016 at 04:46 PM.
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post #11 of 19 Old 08-25-2016, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by bzguy View Post
I have to disagree with this, panels cut on a table saw have clean edges, material loss from sanding is negligible.
If you try to sand too much you will wind up with out of square material with edges less than straight.
If you use peel & stick or iron on edge banding there is no sanding needed and you get a finished look like a slab of solid wood rather than the the plies showing.
Raw edges are by almost anyone's standards unprofessional, unfinished.
Link to edge-banding....http://www.cabinethardware.com/Peel-...ing-p/1110.htm
Did you read the first post, he wants exposed plywood edges.

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Last edited by FrankC; 08-25-2016 at 05:26 PM.
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post #12 of 19 Old 08-25-2016, 08:13 PM
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I've found that the plywood that lumber yards carry have less voids than the plywood that the big box stores sell. I've gotten some good cabinet grade plywood that had minimal, easily filled, voids.
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post #13 of 19 Old 08-26-2016, 01:33 PM
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Exposed edge plywood cabinets

If you don't want to see the ply edges use a edge banding or some thin strips of solid wood edging would look nice. As far as the euro hinges go you will need a jig to set the 37mm distance from the edge of the ply to the Center of the hinge mortise. As much as I don't like them, Rocklers sell a good jig that's fairly inexpensive as far as euro mortise ng jigs go.

http://www.rockler.com/jig-it-deluxe...rilling-system

Good luck with your project

Last edited by sancho; 08-26-2016 at 01:35 PM.
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post #14 of 19 Old 08-26-2016, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sancho View Post
As far as the euro hinges go you will need a jig to set the 37mm distance from the edge of the ply to the Center of the hinge mortise.
Euro hinge mounting plate holes for inset doors are not set 37mm from the edge.

They are drilled 38.5mm + the door thickness.

Hinge mortise boring (in the door) is determined by the amount of reveal you want.

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post #15 of 19 Old 08-26-2016, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankC View Post
Did you read the first post, he wants exposed plywood edges.
Perhaps he does but in the pictures he posted there is only one baltic birch job with formica over it, even the trashy looking Ikea 4' X 8' "sheathing plywood" look seems to be edge-banded?
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post #16 of 19 Old 08-27-2016, 04:29 AM
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Exposed edge plywood cabinets

Quote:
Originally Posted by mdntrdr View Post
Euro hinge mounting plate holes for inset doors are not set 37mm from the edge.

They are drilled 38.5mm + the door thickness.

Hinge mortise boring (in the door) is determined by the amount of reveal you want.

I don't use inset doors as a norm. I use overlay primarily. Buttttt thanks for the info. The next time I set up my LR 32, I'll fiddle with the 38.5 dimensions and see how it works....

Last edited by sancho; 08-27-2016 at 05:10 AM.
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post #17 of 19 Old 08-27-2016, 05:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sancho View Post

I guess the 1.5 mm difference between yours and mine doesnt make difference as it can be made up in the hinge adj.

http://www2.woodcraft.com/PDF/77B85.pdf
Quote from your link... "When using inset hinges, the mounting plate must be set back from the 37mm location by a distance equal to the thickness of the door."

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post #18 of 19 Old 08-27-2016, 05:42 AM
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Now I'm trying to figure out how to use the lr32 with inset doors I'm sure it can be done, I won't be building any for a while but it will be nice to know . I don't build f/ f cabinets as a matter of course. So it will give me something to do,
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post #19 of 19 Old 09-06-2016, 11:57 PM
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Here is a video of what you are talking about. He used bamboo plywood and I think it looks great.


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