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post #21 of 45 Old 07-30-2011, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
You got your way, I got mine. If it don't feel safe don't do it...sound familiar? There was not even a hint of an issue lift up or otherwise with this set up and all the work was safely supported from end to end.My son and I worked together as a great team.
Ripping on a RAS can be done safely.... otherwise 5 million RAS saws should be recalled nation wide just in case some bozo wants to try it without following the safety instructions and not using the safety equipment. And I didn't particularly want to find a 12 foot straight edge or cut to a marked line freehand, and measure each piece twice, actually 4 times, 2 on each end....etc...etc...

What I did find was the mill's straight line rip was less than straight on many of the 8 boards I have cut thus far...hmmm

I could have used my Festool and a 130" guide and attached another shorter guide, but I had used a RAS set up like this before and was comfortable with it. There were no issues.
Here's some more pictures:
I like your set up and also the RAS. Where did you get the roller is it homemade?
Also I built and put up a set of 5'x10' doors on my barn with a door in one of them. I built it on the hinges so to speak, on the barn. Only my son and i and i couldn't see picking it up. A few shims off the ground, glued and screwed everything. I'll get pictures and post them.
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post #22 of 45 Old 07-30-2011, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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Build 'em in place...hmmmm

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Originally Posted by Curly54 View Post
I like your set up and also the RAS. Where did you get the roller is it homemade?
Also I built and put up a set of 5'x10' doors on my barn with a door in one of them. I built it on the hinges so to speak, on the barn. Only my son and i and i couldn't see picking it up. A few shims off the ground, glued and screwed everything. I'll get pictures and post them.
Pictures are always good!

That's not a bad idea. However, I just came up with the idea of building them on my 5 x 10 ft utility trailer which has a 12" rail around it.
Gets them off the ground to work on comfortably and loaded and ready for delivery! bill

BTW the roller is from one of those elcheapo roller stands from HF. it just pops out when you push in one end.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 08-05-2011 at 09:07 PM.
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post #23 of 45 Old 07-30-2011, 09:12 PM
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I wanted tracks but that was another $350.00-$400.00 I didn't have at the time and the hinges were available. These doors are 7 years old and I'm still painting them as you can see. They open and close about 2-3 times per week and still no sagging. It's 5/4 pine. The wood did shrink quite a bit, but it is a barn.
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post #24 of 45 Old 07-30-2011, 10:09 PM
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I learned how to rip cross cut on an old RAS....when i was a kid....sure wish i had one again....man those thing are intimidating for a kid......
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post #25 of 45 Old 07-31-2011, 02:43 AM
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I really like the roller set up. If it were me, I would add a coil spring to push the roller against the YP.

Also for the dado plow pass, Try to use a finger board before and after the cutting area to hold the YP against the fence. Although I think that a router might be a better choice for the rabbet. Multiple passes though.

Use the right tool for the job.

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post #26 of 45 Old 07-31-2011, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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The roller setup

The roller is from a roller stand at Harbor Fright. They just push in the axle and pop out. I drilled a 3/8 hole in the fence and then make a bracket and raised it up with a wooden spacer to be parallel. It seemed like a good idea
to prevent lift up, but turned out to be unnecessary for that but made a good finger blocker from a safety standpoint. WE had to use a push stick under the roller and then on top to get the board entirely through the blade.
My son was on that end pushing, and he got the hang of it real quick.

Actually in using the roller I left a 1/16" gap under the roller to allow for thickness variation from the mill. I never saw the board lift up and make the roller turn after probably close to 100 rips of the 14 ft edge. Did I mention how NOT straight the mill's straight line rips were? It was about 1 out of 3 that were perfect by my standards. At any rate, all the boards are ripped and as straight as I can make them. Since I'm gonna rabbett the edges on the boards they need to be as straight as possible for the best overlap and mating.

On to the rabbeting... I have a monster Porter Cable 518 router, one of the first of the 3.5 HP it's heavy. So I used that with a rabbet bit, a smaller 3/8" dia bearing on the bottom to make a 1/2" x 1/2" rabbet. The problem is that because the Cypress is a "fuzz" over 1" and the bearing is riding, below the rabbet, you have to make 2 passes per edge to get the correct depth, otherwise you have routed away your bearing surface.
So that's 4 passes per board... I switched to the Milwaukee 5625 . What a dream, light weight, comfortable handles and convenient on/off switch. Much better than the PC.
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 07-31-2011 at 12:57 PM.
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post #27 of 45 Old 07-31-2011, 09:15 AM
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Lookin Good!

What did you use to cut the 2' off? Handsaw?

Got a plan for all them cutoffs?

Scott
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post #28 of 45 Old 07-31-2011, 10:28 AM
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A suggestion for rabbeting that may give an overall straighter edge would be to mount to your router edge guide jig a straightedge like this. The longer fence would track a less than perfect edge than a bearing that will seek every nook and cranny. This will permit you to use a 3/4" straight faced mortising bit.

There is also a production advantage in that a rabbeting bit machines at a different torque axis than a straight mortising bit. The theory is that the router seems to perform more effortlessly from an inline (straight) machining rather than the cutting action basically on the side. JMO...it's what works for me.








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post #29 of 45 Old 07-31-2011, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Cut offs

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Originally Posted by mdntrdr View Post
What did you use to cut the 2' off? Handsaw?

I used the "evil machine" in cross cut mode with a stop block at 12 ft to allow a bit extra.

Got a plan for all them cutoffs?

Cypress woodduck houses and other bird houses and feeders.

bill

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post #30 of 45 Old 07-31-2011, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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Got 'R Done, sorta'

I got the rest of the boards "milled" today. 18 double laps and 2 singles. Tried out a 3rd router using C-man's edge guide idea. The little 690 PC got 'r done. I'm gonna buy/make an edge guide for the Milwaukee. Man, I love that router.

I made a sun shade with a tarp rolled up on some 1 x's then used 2x 4's to prop it up. It only blew over 3 times in the 15 MPH breeze we had today, but what a difference not working in direct sun on a 90 degree day!

My son and I modified the trailer to use as an assembly table and transport means. Turned out pretty cool just over 11 ft long.

Tomorrow I start assembly if all goes well..... bill
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Last edited by woodnthings; 08-01-2011 at 12:09 AM.
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post #31 of 45 Old 07-31-2011, 11:15 PM
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The old PC 690 is a work horse, raised many a panel with mine.

BTW.. That looks like one of them Sunsetter awnings... gonna motorize it?

Scott
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post #32 of 45 Old 07-31-2011, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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The old PC 690 is a work horse, raised many a panel with mine.
BTW.. That looks like one of them Sunsetter awnings... gonna motorize it?
Nope, that's a $8.99 Harbor Fright tarp. Don't need no stinkin' motor. I wouldn't mind a 40 x 60 pole barn though.....
Michigan hillbilly engineered sun shade saved my arse. Only 2 showers and 4 soaked tee shirts. Funny how wood chips get down inside your shoes and socks, even in your pockets. Glad that part is over. bill

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post #33 of 45 Old 08-01-2011, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Assembled the doors today

I framed out and leveled the trailer to support the 1 x 10's and
started dry fitting them together. PROBLEM! Usuing the 2 different routers one with a bearing bit and the other with a straight cut bit and edge guide. Slightly different rabbets which did not mate with each other which I found out each time I got everything spaced out then noticed the gaps from the mis-match.
OK take it all apart and re-rout using the edge guide.
Finally got the first one all assembled and we stayed in the shade by moving the trailer under the trees. That was a "brilliant" idea if I must say so..... and apparently I'm the only one who cared.
I used "lifetime" coated torx deck screws. Pound it to start then impact it in...about 5 lbs worth so far, on about a 3" square grid. 6 screws per 1 x 12. OH yah, had to go to Armstrong Millworks this AM and get 8 pieces of 1 x 12" Cypress.
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post #34 of 45 Old 08-01-2011, 10:14 PM
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Looking forward to seeing how this one works out Bill. Looks like erecting the doors may be as much of a challenge as your RAS setup. Interesting thread.

There is a very fine line between a "hobby" and a "mental illness"
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post #35 of 45 Old 08-02-2011, 12:47 AM
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Looking forward to seeing how this one works out Bill. Looks like erecting the doors may be as much of a challenge as your RAS setup. Interesting thread.
All it should take is to knock on a few neighborhood doors and start with, "I have a few six packs and I could use your help...."

Use the right tool for the job.

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post #36 of 45 Old 08-05-2011, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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How they hangin' ?

They are finally vertical!
Pictures don't expain how, but they were slid off the trailer until they touched the ground, then walked up to vertical. The last one was tricky since my buddy had to high hurdle over the frame members on the trailer. They measured 96" x 141 " and they are heavy, all Cypress. Rollers and brackets were stripped and repainted and oiled for the first time in 100 years probably. I'm glad this one is finally finished. bill
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post #37 of 45 Old 08-05-2011, 05:34 PM
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Looks great!

Sweet azz barn!

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post #38 of 45 Old 08-05-2011, 05:41 PM
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Great job on the doors, man! Love those old barns. Does that one have the peg construction? Monster tenon joints?

Harrison, at your service!
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post #39 of 45 Old 08-05-2011, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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This is a deconstructed/reconstructed barn

First barn was 100 years old...according to the owner and located elsewhere. It was deconstructed, and reassembled on this property 100 years ago...according to the owner. That makes it 200 years old....not likely, but possible.
The posts inside have a ton of old mortise pockets where other wood was attached. The entire space is free span from the floor all the way up. It gets entirely filled with hay for the beef cattle my friend raises. My reward/barter for this project was a 1/2 side of organic beef. Melt in your mouth steaks. bill

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post #40 of 45 Old 08-07-2011, 07:52 AM
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Bill,just got back from spending 4 days in WmsBurg.........spent mucho time in the joiner's shop.They're re-building the Blacksmith's shop.The one they built/replicated 30 years ago had issue with sill being too close to ground,which failed....along with a cpl other reasons to redo.

Anyway,the joiners are making the windows/frames/shutters,all done with period handtools.The frames and sashes are reclaimed SYP but,the exterior shutters are being made with Cypress.No glue......vert grain on outside layer,horiz bds on inside of the two layer "system".The inners are shiplapped,outers are sq edged.The whole thing being held fast with cutnails(from Blacksmith shop),around 70 or so per,16x42" shutter.They're driven from inside out,where the 3/4" or so extra length is being clinched over.

Nice work on your doors,BW

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