The roller is from a roller stand at Harbor Fright. They just push in the axle and pop out. I drilled a 3/8 hole in the fence and then make a bracket and raised it up with a wooden spacer to be parallel. It seemed like a good idea
to prevent lift up, but turned out to be unnecessary for that but made a good finger blocker from a safety standpoint. WE had to use a push stick under the roller and then on top to get the board entirely through the blade.
My son was on that end pushing, and he got the hang of it real quick.
Actually in using the roller I left a 1/16" gap under the roller to allow for thickness variation from the mill. I never saw the board lift up and make the roller turn after probably close to 100 rips of the 14 ft edge. Did I mention how NOT straight the mill's straight line rips were? It was about 1 out of 3 that were perfect by my standards. At any rate, all the boards are ripped and as straight as I can make them. Since I'm gonna rabbett the edges on the boards they need to be as straight as possible for the best overlap and mating.
On to the rabbeting... I have a monster Porter Cable 518 router, one of the first of the 3.5 HP it's heavy. So I used that with a rabbet bit, a smaller 3/8" dia bearing on the bottom to make a 1/2" x 1/2" rabbet. The problem is that because the Cypress is a "fuzz" over 1" and the bearing is riding, below the rabbet, you have to make 2 passes per edge to get the correct depth, otherwise you have routed away your bearing surface.
So that's 4 passes per board...
I switched to the Milwaukee 5625 . What a dream,
light weight, comfortable handles and convenient on/off switch. Much better than the PC.