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post #1 of 8 Old 08-01-2013, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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Engineered wood floor

Has anyone had success refinishing engineered wood flooring. I have several bad spots in the flooring, that warrant full refinish or replacement and would like to try and save it with out spending $3k to replace the floor plus labor. I've seen different sites with suggestions of how to do it but I don't know anyone that has done it. Any input would be great, Thanks.
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post #2 of 8 Old 08-01-2013, 11:12 AM
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I've never done it but I think depending on how the engineered floor is made think it could be done. Do you have any of the flooring to see how thick the outer veneer is? That would determine whether it could be done or not. Some of the flooring the wood is 1/8" thick so would be safe to refinish if care was taken. Not very much material is usually sanded off when you refinish a floor.
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post #3 of 8 Old 08-01-2013, 03:32 PM
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did you save any pieces from the install? sometimes you can cut out the bad pieces and insert new. you'll have to cut off a tongue or two, but can be done.
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post #4 of 8 Old 08-02-2013, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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Tim, the floor has been in for about 12 yrs. I bought the house about 3 yrs ago so I don't have any left over pieces. It's more than just one or two pieces also, a full replacement is justified I just don't want to pay what it costs. Steve, It is about an 1/8", I had a piece of the veneer I had to glue back down. I may give it a shot when I'm ready to replace it, that way if I mess it up I'm ready to spend the money! Thanks for the input, I'll let you know how it goes!
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post #5 of 8 Old 08-02-2013, 06:32 PM
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How big are the bad spots. If they are relatively small there may be some ways you can touch it up.
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post #6 of 8 Old 08-04-2013, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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The spots themselves are not big but it's across the entire floor. Scratches and dull worn finish and high shine areas under where the table sets.
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post #7 of 8 Old 08-04-2013, 04:20 PM
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A 1/8" thick veneer should allow wood for refinishing. Unless the scratches and marks are very deep.

The major problem is that most of these floors have a special finish that you cannot duplicate.

George
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post #8 of 8 Old 08-04-2013, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielK View Post
The spots themselves are not big but it's across the entire floor. Scratches and dull worn finish and high shine areas under where the table sets.
It won't hurt anything to try to touch it up. You can either use old english scratch cover to darken the scratch or you could try to fill the void with varnish. If you want to try the varnish I would clean the floor where the scratch is with Dupont Prepsol Solvent or equilivent. It's a wax and grease remover available at stores that sell automotive paint. Try a small spot to completion in an enconspicious place before doing the entire scratch. Start with a small soft artist brush brush and some oil based floor varnish and brush it on the scratch. Use as close sheen as you can guess the finish on the floor has. If it works keep adding the varnish until you fill the scratch with the varnish but try not to build a hump. Let the finish dry well between coats and let the last coat dry a week before rubbing out. When you get it level wet sand the spot with 400x sandpaper and then 800x and then 1500x and then 2000x. By this time it should be smooth but has a cloudy spot from the sanding. Then to polish it out use some rubbing compound and buff the spot with a soft cloth. I use 3m rubbing compound available at Walmart. Then use a floor wax and see if the sheen blends in with the rest of the floor.

To make the job easier you can use a electric auto polisher to buff the floor with rubbing compound. You might make some kind of a wall on each side of the scratch because the polisher slings the rubbing compound pretty bad.
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