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End zgrain Cutting Boards

9K views 42 replies 12 participants last post by  Masterjer 
#1 ·
When I put the mineral oil on my end grain cutting boards the maple turns really dark. I like the looks of the boards after sanding but not after oiling. I see a lot of maple end grain boards posted that don't look as dark as mine. I am currently sanding my end grain boards to 220. I went to 320 on one board but it didn't make a difference. Why are mine going so dark? I use 100 percent mineral oil. I have not mixed in wax with my finish.
Tom
 
#5 ·
rrbrown said:
Nope but only because I just now looking to build some cutting boards. First thing is to get a drum sander.:thumbsup:
I agree with that. The first one I made I had about 6 hours in sanding. With the drum sander it still take about 40 to 50 minutes with 100 grit paper on the sander. It doesn't take long with the ROS after drum sanding.
Tom
 
#7 ·
Tom, I know what you mean. 'Tis the nature of the beast.

The oil is being absorbed into the end grain pores which are the "straws" through which the sap runs.

Depending on the size of the end grain pores, more or less oil will sit. The more oil, the darker the wood. I experienced this myself and the oil was as clear as water - until it went into the end grain and made it look dark.

End grain purpleheart looks a very dark purple.

Not much you can do with the oil.

I think if you used beeswax instead of the oil it would not get as dark.
 
#8 ·
Dave Paine said:
Tom, I know what you mean. 'Tis the nature of the beast.

The oil is being absorbed into the end grain pores which are the "straws" through which the sap runs.

Depending on the size of the end grain pores, more or less oil will sit. The more oil, the darker the wood. I experienced this myself and the oil was as clear as water - until it went into the end grain and made it look dark.

End grain purpleheart looks a very dark purple.

Not much you can do with the oil.

I think if you used beeswax instead of the oil it would not get as dark.
Have you ever just used bees wax for a cutting board finish? If so how do you apply? How well does it hold up and how often do you reapply? Sorry for so many questions just wanting to do something to keep the board from getting so dark.
Tom
 
#10 ·
I have only made 1 end grain board and that was given to a friend some time ago. Likely not used for cutting, just decoration.

I tried beeswax on one of my maple "working" cutting boards. This was face grain. It did not seem to last as long as oil. No surprise, it cannot penetrate as deep.

So you may have a tradeoff, more frequent application but not as dark, vs less frequent but darker.

Then there are the mixes, oil and wax. I have this, but rarely use it. I normally just use the mineral oil.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2084854/38930/howards-butcher-block-conditioner-12oz.aspx
 
#11 ·
Dave Paine said:
I have only made 1 end grain board and that was given to a friend some time ago. Likely not used for cutting, just decoration.

I tried beeswax on one of my maple "working" cutting boards. This was face grain. It did not seem to last as long as oil. No surprise, it cannot penetrate as deep.

So you may have a tradeoff, more frequent application but not as dark, vs less frequent but darker.

Then there are the mixes, oil and wax. I have this, but rarely use it. I normally just use the mineral oil.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2084854/38930/howards-butcher-block-conditioner-12oz.aspx
Maybe someone else has some secrets. I don't have a problem with face grain. When I post a picture I will post a picture of a board oiled and just sanded. I have 2 in the final stage of glue up. I will sand in the morning and post pictures of both.
Tom
 
#12 ·
Pictures

Here are some pictures of my end grain cutting boards. The first picture is of a board just out of the drum sander(no finish). The second picture is of an identical board with a mineral oil finish. The third picture is of a face grain board with maple and a mineral oil finish. To me the end grain cutting board with the mineral oil finish is darked than it shows in the picture.
Tom
 

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#13 ·
Nice looking boards.

I think there is not much you can do to prevent the end grain and oil looking as dark as it does. It is a surprise when the oil is as clear as water.

Perhaps a sealer would prevent it going as dark, but that would also prevent absorbing the oil and defect the purpose of the oil.
 
#14 ·
Dave Paine said:
Nice looking boards.

I think there is not much you can do to prevent the end grain and oil looking as dark as it does. It is a surprise when the oil is as clear as water.

Perhaps a sealer would prevent it going as dark, but that would also prevent absorbing the oil and defect the purpose of the oil.
I think you are correct. I will try bees wax on this one. I have one more ready to sand. Based on how the bees wax comes out will depend on how it gets finished.
Tom
 
#15 ·
Well I order the Doctors paste wax for cutting boards. I should have it late next week. I will post pictures of the previously unfinished boards when I get them waxed. I guess there are no secrets to use on end grain boards to keep most finishes form turning them extremely dark.
Tom
 
#17 ·
yank said:
That is the color my cutting boards look after I put mineral oil on them. That is the nature of the wood. Not any thing you can do to prevent it.
I agree, but I don't have to like it. I am curious to see how the wax looks. I know it not a very durable finish and need to be reapplied frequently. However, if it doesn't turn the board dark it will be worth it. As of now the wax hasn't shipped. It may be next week before I get it.
Tom
 
#19 ·
Al B Thayer said:
I have a 1st gen and post just fine with the pad. ?

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
What's your secret? It would take me longer to post with the iPad. First take a picture, then transfer it to my computer and then transfer it to my iPad so I can post. I just go ahead and post while the computer is up.
Tom
 
#20 ·
TomC said:
What's your secret? It would take me longer to post with the iPad. First take a picture, then transfer it to my computer and then transfer it to my iPad so I can post. I just go ahead and post while the computer is up.
Tom
I take a pic with my phone. Email it. Open it with the pad. Clic the arrow. Clic save image. Then when posting on WWF clic advanced. Then Clic attach from photos. After it downloads add a line of text. Push the sideways v on the Same download tab.

I'm still trying to figure out the iPad app too.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
 
#21 ·
Al B Thayer said:
I take a pic with my phone. Email it. Open it with the pad. Clic the arrow. Clic save image. Then when posting on WWF clic advanced. Then Clic attach from photos. After it downloads add a line of text. Push the sideways v on the Same download tab.

I'm still trying to figure out the iPad app too.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
I went cheap about 2 years ago and got rid of my Verizon cell phone and went with a track phone. It doesn't have a camera. I was paying around 50 dollar a month. Now a $40 card will last me between 3 to 4 months or about $12 to $14 per month. So I have to use a digital camera and upload it to my computer.
Tom
 
#23 ·
Masterofnone said:
Tom, try continuing up through the grits. Every project I do, face grain gets sanded to 220, while end grain gets hit with 400 and 600. The color becomes consistent throughout.
I had thought of that. Isn't the reason the color is more consistent it that the finer sanding causes the wood to soak up less finish? You want the board to absorb the mineral oil to protect it agains water. I have a board that I made several months ago and I did not use cauls to keep everything aligned. It has just been laying in the shop. I may try it on this board.
Tom
 
#27 ·
You're right, a finer sand causes the end grain to absorb less material, be it stain, dye, whatever.

I've heard you use mineral oil on a cutting board because, as a finish, it wont redissolve should it get on your food. Mineral oil is actually used in laxatives. It wont hurt you. As far as it protecting against water, I do not know if it does that.
 
#24 ·
TomC said:
I went cheap about 2 years ago and got rid of my Verizon cell phone and went with a track phone. It doesn't have a camera. I was paying around 50 dollar a month. Now a $40 card will last me between 3 to 4 months or about $12 to $14 per month. So I have to use a digital camera and upload it to my computer.
Tom
Well that is the bummer about the pad. Can't upload from your cam.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
 
#36 ·
With the 4th generation you can buy a card reader and download pictures that way. I am actually using it to store some of my photos.

Don
 
#29 ·
I just finished my first end grain board and put on a butcher block oil (mineral oil with some "vitamins") and the board just feels greasy. It's been a few days since I put any on and it still feels oily.

Is that normal? All of the wooden blocks i've ever used in my life have been pretty dry, so I'm just curious if it's something I should be worried about or not.

I will say the oil made the grain pop big time and it looks like a totally different board now (good thing).
 
#31 ·
It is normal process to wipe off the excess. Assuming you did wipe off the excess it is possible the wood is open grain and will ooze oil for some time.

A friend purchased an end grain board made out of red oak and walnut. This continued to ooze oil while I worked on it in the shop. Likely the red oak rather than the walnut.

The mineral oil is safe, but I agree it does not feel good on the hands.

Give it time. Try wiping down the surface with sponge and dishwasher liquid.
 
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