Edge Jointing table leaves for big dining room table - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 11-14-2016, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Edge Jointing table leaves for big dining room table

So I'm kind of a novice, but it hasn't stopped me from tackling big expensive projects like the 106" cherry dining room table with 2 leaves. I've already glued up my 4 panels for the table, including the two big pieces and the two leaves. Of course for an extension table, the boards need to be perfectly edge jointed because they aren't getting clamped together nor glued or anything like that. Some alignment pins and some little locks are all I'll have when I put the boards together, but right not there is a 1/32" to a 1/16" gap on the extreme edges of the 48" boards when attempting to put the table together without clamps.

So I DON"T have a jointer. I DO have a table saw, but its the Dewalt Compact Job site table saw. The length of the edge required to be true is about 48", so that table saw won't work.

I do have a Bora 50" straight edge (actually two of these).
I do have a circular saw.
I do have two routers.
I also have a hand plane but I'm terrified of it because I think there is no way I'm skilled enough to do it by hand and I don't want to ruin my project.

How do you recommend I do this edge jointing for the panel/leaf/leaf/panel given the tools i have. (or spending <$100)

The leading thought is using my router along the Bora 50" straight edge and doing it by hand using the router. I don't see how I could use this particular table saw. The circular saw can attach to the Bora straight edge to be converted to a track saw, so that's also a possibility.

Any thoughts or advice on this would be great! (Also I posted this in the Joinery subsection but I realized those threads get very little traffic compared to this one, I'm sorry of this is against TOS).
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post #2 of 8 Old 11-14-2016, 02:53 PM
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I wouldn't use a table or circular saw, won't leave a clean finished edge. I'm sure it could be done with the right saw, blade, & hand control, but I'm confident that it wouldn't work for me, with my skills.

If you have a straight router bit deep enough for the table/leaf thickness, I'd set up a straightedge & run the router down the length of the table, with leaves installed. I've done something similar, and it worked well.
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post #3 of 8 Old 11-14-2016, 03:59 PM
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You can also purchase a router plate online for your Bora straight edge that will basically turn it into a track router. This would be the most likely route (no pun intended) I would take.

Another possibility is to make yourself a router table, and use that, but it would probably be a bit cumbersome working the piece to the table.

I use my Bora straight edge guide for this and other things on pieces up to 100",and it works beautifully. Just don't take to big of a bite with the bit.

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post #4 of 8 Old 11-14-2016, 05:45 PM
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If you are within 1/32", you are almost there. Put your saws away. I would not use a router.
I would use a sharp hand plane. If you're uncomfortable with the plane, use a board wrapped with 80 grit sandpaper. It will be a slower but will accomplish the same thing.
You are primarily concerned with the top edge. A slight bevel of a few degrees at the bottom won't make a difference, you want the top edges to meet.
Take your time and remove tiny amounts from the parts that already touch until you have a consistent line.
Good luck.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #5 of 8 Old 11-15-2016, 04:47 PM
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I agree with Toolman, trying to trim 1/32 with any of the tools you mentioned is going to be tough. You will probably end up removing more material than necessary and likely end up making the problem worse. I would go with a sanding board, get some adhesive backed sandpaper or spray glue and sandpaper then stick it to a 1x4 about 18 inches long. Install the leaves, mark where they touch to make the gap and then make a few passes at those spots with the sanding board. Repeat as necessary till the gap is gone.

Good Luck, TT
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post #6 of 8 Old 11-16-2016, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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so after reading the above responses, I began thinking about making a sanding block with a fence. What do you guys think about this? And does the suggestion change of the amount required to remove is slightly more than 1/32", like 3/64" or even 1/16" of an inch. Definitely not more than that.
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post #7 of 8 Old 11-16-2016, 01:19 PM
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any more than 1/16" and I would use the router against a straight edge. or if the 1/16" is for a long dimension.

cherry is soft and sands easily. I would start with 80 grit then move up. your sanding jig will work fine.
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post #8 of 8 Old 11-16-2016, 03:21 PM
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I faced the same problem when building this dining table. It has one extension piece.

It is essential not only to get the mating edges straight but they must also be "exactly" perpendicular to the outside edges of the table so that when everything is in place, the outside edge appears to be a straight line. Like any other woodworking task, there are multiple ways to get the desired end result. I opted to use a router and straight edge. I rough cut the two table slabs and the insert piece using a circular saw and straight edge, cutting them slightly oversize. Since the table top is 1.25" thick I couldn't get the job done in one pass using a 1" long bit. Therefore, I used a pattern bit and straight edge for the first pass and then flipped the piece over and finished the job with a flush trim bit. This was done on all four edges of each piece and when the layout was done, there was a lot of measuring diagonals before the routing started. The process worked great and I am quite happy with the result.
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