Durable water poloy - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 2 Old 01-06-2018, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Durable water poloy

Need some advice please.
First time ever even considering a water based poloy. But have a gray stain to cover.

Big concern is I need the durability I am used to with oil poloy. May do a test to see if I could live with the amber color of oil poloy over gray. But dont like that idea either.

Stain is a Varathane oil based. Manufacturer did say there water based poloy was fine over the stain with 2 days drying.
Have a sample piece. After only 24 hours I left a damp paper towel on it overnight for a test. Result was a large white blotch area.
And no use kidding myself. The furniture I am working on will endup with the occasional cold drink set on it and then the condensation from that. Not for over night of course.

So have a few questions
Is water based poloy easy to spot repair?
If I waited a week longer, would it have been more durable?
I used varathane ploy to be sure it was compatible with the stain I was using for the first time. Oil but dries very quick.
Hear general finishes HP water poloy is top rated. Is it worth switching and using the GF product?

If so, use it directly over the oil stain. Or a coat of the varathane water poloy (so no question on compatibility) and then switch to the general finishes poloy?

Hope not to confusing, have a few questions in the above.

Thanks for all suggestions.
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post #2 of 2 Old 01-07-2018, 12:33 AM
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They call it water based polyurethane but it's Polyurethane. It's an acrylic clear coat. It's no where near as durable as oil based poly.

The reason they say to let the stain dry two days is all waterborne finishes are incompatible with linseed oil contained in stain. If the weather is cool and damp or the stain was applied especially wet it may take much longer for the linseed oil to dry completely. The two days is when the weather is warm and dry. If conditions are not good it's better to smell the wood and see if you can smell the linseed oil still before topcoating. A shortcut would be to apply a single coat of zinsser sealcoat and then apply the waterborne finish. The sealcoat will provide a barrier coat between the finish and the linseed oil.

I wouldn't be mixing different finishes. If you start with one product stick with it. Sometimes different products are incompatible with each other and you almost have to be a chemist to determine that.

One thing to consider about oil based finishes is if your project is light in color oil based finishes will give a yellow tint to the wood and continue to yellow as they age.

Another option would be an automotive urethane clearcoat. It's expensive but would dry fast and be very durable.
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