Drilling hole in end of tapper spimdle - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 11-10-2018, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Drilling hole in end of tapper spimdle

I would like to know how to make a jig or set up lathe so I can drill a 2 inch hole in the end of a tapper wood spindle I can get close but not perfect. Than when I put 1/2 rod in hole it is not straight Trying to make handles to put on the end of 1/2 spear shaft. The wood handles are about 2 ft long with one end small and the other end larger. Big end is 1 or a little larger and the small end 7/8 are a little larger. Actually buying stair case wood spindle and using a metal lathe to drill the hole in the end. Any help would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 12 Old 11-10-2018, 11:08 PM
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I think you got a typo ...

There are 2 typos in the title and this one:
You can't drill a 2" hole in a 1" diameter end. You CAN drill a 1/2" hole in the end.

In a lathe, you can rotate the work, OR rotate the drill. Either way, a 2 ft long tapered piece will be hard to drill on center. If you are making these tapered pieces, drill the holes first before you taper them. If you can, make a short round shaft on the end to hold your steady rest support, them drill them using the tailstock and a 1/2" drill bit. Are you using a metal lathe? How long is the bed?

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 11-10-2018 at 11:21 PM.
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post #3 of 12 Old 11-10-2018, 11:17 PM
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You need a steady rest to support the outboard end, this is the type I use most often for wood:
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post #4 of 12 Old 11-10-2018, 11:28 PM
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Meant to add to use a center bit first before drilling the larger hole if you are using a twist bit. If you are using a forestner bit then that may not be necessary.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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post #5 of 12 Old 11-11-2018, 09:15 AM
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With a metal lathe I would put the spindle through the headstock and chuck it with a collet. This of course assumes it's a full size lathe with a 1-1/2" through hole. You might have to fabricate some sort of outboard support on the end behind the headstock to keep it from whipping.

Since your spindle is tapered you'll probably mar it with a collet due to the single point contact. An alternative would be a 3 jaw chuck and a custom made nylon or Delrin collet to match the taper and protect the wood from being crushed. Pool cue repair guys deal with this all the time.

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post #6 of 12 Old 11-11-2018, 09:32 AM
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A picture would help us with what you are trying to accomplish.
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post #7 of 12 Old 11-11-2018, 10:08 AM
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Steady rest, YUP

Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
There are 2 typos in the title and this one:
You can't drill a 2" hole in a 1" diameter end. You CAN drill a 1/2" hole in the end.

In a lathe, you can rotate the work, OR rotate the drill. Either way, a 2 ft long tapered piece will be hard to drill on center. If you are making these tapered pieces, drill the holes first before you taper them. If you can, make a short round shaft on the end to hold your steady rest support, them drill them using the tailstock and a 1/2" drill bit. Are you using a metal lathe? How long is the bed?
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Originally Posted by FrankC View Post
You need a steady rest to support the outboard end, this is the type I use most often for wood:
If the lathe spindle is large enough, as was mentioned @Maylar, then no steady rest is needed. If not, then the bed must be long enough to be able to use a steady rest, at least 36". If not, then a drill press with the table offset OR if the hole is a good fit for the end, drill it vertically. I used a hole saw 1/1/4", to enlarge the hole on my table for a specific operation. It worked just fine.

You may find the hole in the table is a wedge fit for your spindle ... I donno? If so, perfect! You would have to use a gentle feed pressure to avoid spinning the workpiece in this case. You would also need a floor type drill press, OR set your bench top so the quill is off the side of the bench when lowered. It would still work OK, just a bit more set up.
See tip number one here:
https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwor...ips-techniques

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #8 of 12 Old 11-11-2018, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
using a metal lathe to drill the hole in the end.
just chuck it up in a metal lathe, you might need to make some temporary tapered jaw inserts but that would be easy enough
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post #9 of 12 Old 11-11-2018, 02:16 PM
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Chuck it up and let it fly?

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Originally Posted by _Ogre View Post
just chuck it up in a metal lathe, you might need to make some temporary tapered jaw inserts but that would be easy enough
You can't just chuck a 24" length in the lathe and not support the end while drilling into it. We are still wondering the length of the bed on the OP's lathe......The midi and mini metal lathes are not long enough. A 3 jaw chuck would be easier to center, but the critical end is the other end which is being drilled into.


The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)

Last edited by woodnthings; 11-11-2018 at 02:29 PM.
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post #10 of 12 Old 11-11-2018, 02:26 PM
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If you are using a metal lathe chuck find a short length, about 1" long, of thin wall pipe, metal or plastic, that just fits over the the end of the wooden spindle. Saw a slit in it about 1/4" wide, so it tightens in the chuck on the large end without damaging the wood.

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Last edited by FrankC; 11-11-2018 at 02:33 PM.
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post #11 of 12 Old 11-11-2018, 02:31 PM
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unlike a wood lathe, a metal lathe has a hollow headstock just for feeding long bar stock in through the center
you can easily chuck up 24" or for that matter 24 feet in a metal lathe to center drill the end
now if this is a homeowners mini lathe he maybe limited to the size of the hole in the headstock
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post #12 of 12 Old 11-11-2018, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _Ogre View Post
unlike a wood lathe, a metal lathe has a hollow headstock just for feeding long bar stock in through the center
you can easily chuck up 24" or for that matter 24 feet in a metal lathe to center drill the end
now if this is a homeowners mini lathe he maybe limited to the size of the hole in the headstock
He would need to have a MT 4 taper to have a 1" bore through spindle, not too common as a handyman lathe, but if that is the case his 7/8" diameter small end would fit through it, however the outboard end would likely need to be supported unless he has a very secure method to hold it in the chuck.

We have to bear in mind that this appears to be a one off project so the simpler the better, so cutting tapered soft jaws to hold the taper from simply sliding out of them as pressure is put on the end by the drill bit would be somewhat of a challenge.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools because they have to say something -Plato

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