Drawer slide install help - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 04-28-2018, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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Drawer slide install help

I have a rookie question for install drawer slide.

My draw opening is 17” wide, my drawer is 15.75” wide and sliders are .50” per side (1”) so I’m off 1/4” (.25”) ?? Is this normal? I follow these measurements from a plan I found.


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post #2 of 14 Old 04-28-2018, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dws780 View Post
I have a rookie question for install drawer slide.

My draw opening is 17” wide, my drawer is 15.75” wide and sliders are .50” per side (1”) so I’m off 1/4” (.25”) ?? Is this normal? I follow these measurements from a plan I found.


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Been there. Done that. Shim 1/8 on each side (behind the case side) or rebuild the drawer. These slides are as intolerant as a jilted mother in law.
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post #3 of 14 Old 04-28-2018, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dws780 View Post
I have a rookie question for install drawer slide.

My draw opening is 17” wide, my drawer is 15.75” wide and sliders are .50” per side (1”) so I’m off 1/4” (.25”) ?? Is this normal? I follow these measurements from a plan I found.


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With any slide I've ever used you make the box 1" to 1 1/32" smaller than the opening.
From where you are you could shim out the hardware that goes on the drawer or the cabinet. It would be less noticeable to shim out the cabinet.
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post #4 of 14 Old 04-28-2018, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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So I assume the measurements I got from the plan is wrong?

Btw these are the slide I have.

16 in. Soft-Close Ball Bearing Full Extension Drawer Slide (1-Pair)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/302867516
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post #5 of 14 Old 04-28-2018, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
With any slide I've ever used you make the box 1" to 1 1/32" smaller than the opening.
From where you are you could shim out the hardware that goes on the drawer or the cabinet. It would be less noticeable to shim out the cabinet.


Yes that’s a good idea I will shim the cabinet.

Thanks for the tips I will follow the 1” to 1 1/32” small than the opening on future builds.


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post #6 of 14 Old 04-28-2018, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dws780 View Post
So I assume the measurements I got from the plan is wrong?

Btw these are the slide I have.

16 in. Soft-Close Ball Bearing Full Extension Drawer Slide (1-Pair)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/302867516
If your plans called for a 15 3/4" drawer with a 17" opening the plans were wrong for typical drawer slides. The slide in the link is a typical slide. I don't know of any slides that are 5/8" thick. Did they specify a particular product? It would be interesting to find out if there was a 5/8" slide or not. Personally I wouldn't want it. Slides do wear out and if you had an odd size slide it would give you a headache trying to track down the proper slide.
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post #7 of 14 Old 04-28-2018, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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Drawer slide install help-img_1735.jpg
Drawer slide install help-img_1736.jpg

Rookie mistake on my end I guess

At least it’s an easy fix to shim the cabinet.




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post #8 of 14 Old 04-28-2018, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by dws780 View Post
Attachment 358282
Attachment 358290

Rookie mistake on my end I guess

At least it’s an easy fix to shim the cabinet.




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The problem isn't yours. If you work off bought plans every part of it should work. You didn't get these plans from a guy named Ted did you? It's all wrong. The front calls for 16 3/4" wide. Even if it's inset drawers that would make an 1/8" gap on each side. 1/16" is plenty for an inset drawer.
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post #9 of 14 Old 04-29-2018, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
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No not from Ted.
I did my drawer different then the plan. I use dado on the bottom and use 1/4” insert. For the front I will be using false face. So the 16.75” is no good?


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post #10 of 14 Old 04-29-2018, 09:03 AM
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whenever I follow plans, especially those with drawers I build the frame and double check the measurements with the slides in hand to make sure I didn't mess up or the plans were wrong.

not sure how many magazine plans I've seen with a incorrect measurement note the following month.
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post #11 of 14 Old 04-29-2018, 09:27 AM
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If you haven’t attached the false fronts first, mount your drawers. Size and attach the fronts to match your final opening. You don’t need 1/8 inch spacing around the drawer front. Try for 1/16 or less spacing, you can adjust later if needed with a block plane.

With drawers installed I use playing cards to space my drawer fronts so there is even gap all the way around. You can use double sided tape to temporarily hold it in place while you open the drawers to drill your screw holes. The screw holes through the drawer (not false front) should be larger than the screws so that you make small adjustments to the fit. Remove the double sided tape first so they can move.


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.
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post #12 of 14 Old 04-29-2018, 11:01 AM
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You do not state whether you plan to use inset drawers or overlay drawer fronts. The picture in the drawing makes it look like there is a handle on the drawer front, making that an inset drawer. A 1/4" opening on each side of an inset drawer would not look good.

At this point you need to plan on adding a front to the drawer. If you do not want a front then you need to remake the drawer to correct dimensions.

George
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post #13 of 14 Old 04-29-2018, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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I didn’t even build the front face yet

Just want to double check first before making another mistake.


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post #14 of 14 Old 04-29-2018, 12:21 PM
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I see where the drawing went bad. They didn't take into account the margin when they chose the sizes. This is a case of not maintaining a constant reference. They allowed an 1/8" margin, witch is common. Ball bearing slides will always have some side to side play and if you make the face too close the finish will get dinged and look like sh**.
For ball bearing slides, especially the Chinese ones sold by HD allow at least a 32nd extra opening. That tolerance gives the draw glide an allowance of 1/64" for variances in forming the metal. Not a lot considering there are 3 parts that are formed metal.
I run a production shop and our standard margin is 1/8". Since we only make Euro type cabinets all hardware is installed before the case is assembled. A lot easier & faster than trying to install guides inside of a cabinet box. It requires a decent level of accuracy but there is no such thing as absolutely accurate.
Make some supports to rest your guides on when installing so they are perfectly parallel to each other.
From now on make your own plans, lesson learned??
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