Do I need a chip separator? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 07-19-2010, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
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Do I need a chip separator?

I have a grizzly G0548 DC and was wondering why I would need a chip separator. Will the larger chips harm the DC?

Bud

"Veggie burgers aren't bad if you put enough meat on them"
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post #2 of 16 Old 07-19-2010, 12:15 PM
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Bud,
I put one in line after a few chunks of oak hit the impellers with a twang.
Mine is just a "cyclone lid" over a 30 gallon metal trash can.
Saves emptying the DC bag as often, too.
But, since I vented mine through the wall to the outside, I don't empty bags any more.
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post #3 of 16 Old 07-19-2010, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Gene Howe View Post
Bud,
I put one in line after a few chunks of oak hit the impellers with a twang.
Mine is just a "cyclone lid" over a 30 gallon metal trash can.
Saves emptying the DC bag as often, too.

But, since I vented mine through the wall to the outside, I don't empty bags any more.
I second everything he in red.
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post #4 of 16 Old 07-19-2010, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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But, since I vented mine through the wall to the outside, I don't empty bags any more.
Great idea ! I think I'll vent mine right into my wifes flower garden. That's where she puts it anyway. And if I'm sawing something while she's working in the garden, all the better because she can work with it on the fly.

Bud

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post #5 of 16 Old 07-19-2010, 03:06 PM
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Venting from a "conditioned space"

If you extract the heated or cooled air from your shop you will see an increase in those costs. You will also create a "negative" pressure in any stacks used for exhausting fumes and Carbon Monoxide, unless they are a closed loop system. Humid air will also enter the shop and may cause some wood movement issues, unbalance spraying conditions and some tools may rust. In my situation, it's better to contain and filter the air in my shop here in Michigan where outside, it's 90 degrees and the humidity is at 78%. At 1500 CFM that's a lot of air to replace and condition...JMO. bill
BTW the wife will need her own respirator for gardening under the dust collector outlet....

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #6 of 16 Old 07-19-2010, 03:32 PM
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If you extract the heated or cooled air from your shop you will see an increase in those costs. You will also create a "negative" pressure in any stacks used for exhausting fumes and Carbon Monoxide, unless they are a closed loop system. Humid air will also enter the shop and may cause some wood movement issues, unbalance spraying conditions and some tools may rust. In my situation, it's better to contain and filter the air in my shop here in Michigan where outside, it's 90 degrees and the humidity is at 78%. At 1500 CFM that's a lot of air to replace and condition...JMO. bill
BTW the wife will need her own respirator for gardening under the dust collector outlet....
You're right. Wouldn't recommend venting the DC to the outside for everyone. In my case, we don't need A/C and only heat maybe 25-30 days all year. And, humidity is certainly of little concern to us desert rats. Heck, loggers tell me that a pine is "dry" as soon as it is fallen.
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post #7 of 16 Old 07-19-2010, 08:41 PM
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The chip seperator on my Grizzly DC was an investment well worth the cost. I don't regret it at all. Changing bags is a PITA, but taking the trash can out is simple as pie.
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post #8 of 16 Old 07-20-2010, 12:06 AM
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I think that Colt has summed it up perfectly.

My trash can separator gets emptied every week or two. It has been a year or so since I've emptied my DC bag.

Woodcraft or Rockler have the separator lid for the trash can $35 or so. Your local Ace or True Value can get you a 30 gallon galvanized trash can. I think that mine cost almost $30 but like most old methane gas clouds, I have CRS disease.

Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
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Remember that when we have the "BIG ONE" everything east of the Rockies falls into the ocean.
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post #9 of 16 Old 07-20-2010, 09:56 AM
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You might also want to consider adding this to the lid seperator. He designed his own but I added my version to a Woodcraft lid and it works great. I will post pictures later.http://www.cgallery.com/jpthien/cy.htm
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post #10 of 16 Old 07-20-2010, 10:44 AM
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Has anyone made their chip separator out of a fiber drum? I wouldn't think it would collapse under vacuum, but then I heard about one trash can being sucked in. Maybe a fiber drum lid would be too flimsy, but I like the locking band on them. What's the minimum and maximum gallon capacity of a separator that one could use on a 1100 scfm collector without adversely affecting the performance? I have a plastic 55 gallon drum with a removable lid. Would this be too large? Would it take forever to get the proper flow going due to it's size? Oh yeah, I would definitely ground the contraption. Also, if you lined any style of separator with a standard trash bag, would that get sucked up into the exit piping?

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You might also want to consider adding this to the lid separator. He designed his own but I added my version to a Woodcraft lid and it works great. I will post pictures later.http://www.cgallery.com/jpthien/cy.htm
It appears that the commercially available separator lids are just two ports on the lid with a 90 attached to the underside of the exit port running along the rim of the lid. I need 6" ports so I could just jury rig one using plumbing or HVAC fittings. Or is there more to them than that?
Thanks for any input and sorry for hijacking this thread. It seemed like a logical place to put my questions.

Last edited by djg; 07-20-2010 at 11:05 AM.
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post #11 of 16 Old 07-20-2010, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djg View Post
Has anyone made their chip separator out of a fiber drum? I wouldn't think it would collapse under vacuum, but then I heard about one trash can being sucked in. Maybe a fiber drum lid would be too flimsy, but I like the locking band on them. What's the minimum and maximum gallon capacity of a separator that one could use on a 1100 scfm collector without adversely affecting the performance? I have a plastic 55 gallon drum with a removable lid. Would this be too large? Would it take forever to get the proper flow going due to it's size? Oh yeah, I would definitely ground the contraption. Also, if you lined any style of separator with a standard trash bag, would that get sucked up into the exit piping?


It appears that the commercially available separator lids are just two ports on the lid with a 90 attached to the underside of the exit port running along the rim of the lid. I need 6" ports so I could just jury rig one using plumbing or HVAC fittings. Or is there more to them than that?
Thanks for any input and sorry for hijacking this thread. It seemed like a logical place to put my questions.
My Grizzly seperator doesn't even have ports attached to the underside. The underside looks just like the top.
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post #12 of 16 Old 07-20-2010, 09:02 PM
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My Thien desigh

Go to my album click on bobs stuff and brouse my pictures. Click on the picture and there is a note by each for the DC chip collector. I guess one could modify the lid to meet your needs such as 6" ports with off the shelf fittings. Just use your imagination experiment. The inportant thing is to get the intake port elbow as close to the side as possible. Try to direct the intake elbow in the same direction as your DC is running. You know clock wise or counter clock wise.

Last edited by Bob Willing; 07-20-2010 at 09:07 PM.
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post #13 of 16 Old 07-20-2010, 09:47 PM
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Thanks Bob'
Looks like a good design. Might try it on a 55 gallon size. May be too large to draw, but all I'll loose is a lid.
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post #14 of 16 Old 07-22-2010, 03:58 PM
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djg you might want to consider the weight when it comes tome to empty a 55 gal drum. 30 gal is heavy enough to empty.
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post #15 of 16 Old 07-22-2010, 06:35 PM
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that's for sure!

My 30 gal fiberboard drum is plenty heavy and has to be carried down a long fllght of stairs. I would not be able to manage a 55 gal drum through 2 doors and down the stairs. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specific. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo that illustrates your issue. (:< D)
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post #16 of 16 Old 07-22-2010, 09:36 PM
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djg you might want to consider the weight when it comes tome to empty a 55 gal drum. 30 gal is heavy enough to empty.
Yeah, you're probably right. I was speaking without thinking it through. I got a couple of plastic 55 gallon drums that I was looking for a use for. And I though the extra height would help keep debris from being carried over. And I was going to religiously empty it when it only got half full. Yeah right you know how that would work.
So now I'll try using a fiber drum. I might have one with a plastic lid (more rigid than a cardboard one. They are about 30 gallon size and have a nice locking band too.

Thanks everyone.
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