Dinnig room table - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 4 Old 05-18-2011, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Dinnig room table

Hello everyone! I'm new to the forum. I just wanted to drop in and say hello and ask a couple of questions.

I'm a novice wood worker. I've made a couple of poker tables and done plenty of carpentry work. I have a table saw and a router. I'm also in the process of making a router table. I want to make a dinning room table for my mother in law and I want to make the top out of either red oak or walnut (haven't made up my mind yet). I was wondering what the best way to make the top? I can get 4/4 hardwood at a reasonable price and I was thinking about ripping the boards to 4 or 5 inches wide and using my tongue and grove bit to join the boards to make the solid top. Would this method be ok and would it allow the table top enough strength. The table will set on a pedestal.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
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post #2 of 4 Old 05-18-2011, 06:33 PM
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I would acclimate the wood, and joint the mating edges so they fit well. I wouldn't use T&G. You could straightedge on the table saw, and dress by hand if necessary, with a handplane, or a block sander.

Do a glue up with clamps on top and bottom to even out the pressure. Use clamps and cauls to maintain alignment. You could do a few boards at a time until the entire top is fabricated. You could profile the edge with a decorative router bit, or make breadboard ends.

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post #3 of 4 Old 05-18-2011, 08:26 PM
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I just finished a red oak dining room table with one 24" leaf for my daughter. I used RO plywood with solid wood edging for the top. Plywood has several benefits, it is very stable, doesn't need much sanding and with solid wood edging, you don't have to deal with end grain issues like solid wood. I was a little concerned that the plywood and solid wood would take the stain a little differently, but after sealing both, it turned out fine. Good luck on your project.
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post #4 of 4 Old 05-18-2011, 10:06 PM
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Cabinetman gave some good advice. I donít normally use a T&G, though I wouldnít completely discount it. Edge to edge joints that are done properly are stronger than the wood itself, so the T&G doesnít add strength. The T&G can help with alignment though. It would depend on how bowed the wood is to begin with, and how easily you can line up the boards. I typically buy rough stock, do an initial surfacing then glue them together a little fat. Then I use a plane or belt sander to even out any slight discrepancies. Donít count on machines to get out big discrepancies though - get it as perfect as possible when you glue and clamp.

For anything except a huge table or an odd design, a final thickness of ĺ inch should be adequate for a tabletop. Ripping the boards into thinner strips should help you avoid a wavy top, but make sure you align the grain properly when you glue up the boards.

If you are planning on doing much woodworking, a jack or jointer plane to flatten boards is a good investment. I agree that plywood is an option, but you can sand through the thin face veneer easily.
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