Dining room table made out of cherry - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-15-2016, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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Dining room table made out of cherry

If you were to make a dining room table, say 45" x 96"... what sized stock would you use? I'm leaning towards 5/4 x 6" (5.5").

I will be making it out of cherry.
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post #2 of 11 Old 08-15-2016, 05:26 PM
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I would make it out of the size stock that is available. I would have no particularly preference for 5/4 or other thicker stock. I would want the width of the planks to vary if I was making the top out of solid wood.

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post #3 of 11 Old 08-15-2016, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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I would make it out of the size stock that is available. I would have no particularly preference for 5/4 or other thicker stock. I would want the width of the planks to vary if I was making the top out of solid wood.

George
Interesting, may I ask why you would want the width of the planks to vary? Is it strictly due to character and aesthetics?
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post #4 of 11 Old 08-15-2016, 07:37 PM
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Interesting, may I ask why you would want the width of the planks to vary? Is it strictly due to character and aesthetics?
Yes and when joints are consistant in spacing your eye will pick that up quickly....or at least a trained eye will. Looks more professional also!!
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post #5 of 11 Old 08-15-2016, 10:20 PM
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Depends on the design of the table. Most tables are made with 4/4 but some designs would look bad with that thin of wood.

When you are working the table keep it covered with blankets or black plastic to keep the sun off of it until you put a finish on it. Cherry can turn noticeably darker in as little as 30 minutes in direct sun. I saw a guy leave a saw blade on a sheet of cherry plywood one time during lunch and when he came back you could see the outline of the blade in the sheet.
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post #6 of 11 Old 08-15-2016, 11:02 PM
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The design of the table can dictate the thickness of a table top.
A harvest table may have 1 1/2" or thicker top.
A top for a Duncan Phyfe table may be only 3/4".
You should always adhere to the original design to some degree to keep the table from looking home made. You start to feel you're finally getting pretty good as a furniture maker when your work no longer looks home made.
A quick I D of the furniture you've made yourself by a novice is no compliment.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #7 of 11 Old 08-16-2016, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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Depends on the design of the table. Most tables are made with 4/4 but some designs would look bad with that thin of wood.

When you are working the table keep it covered with blankets or black plastic to keep the sun off of it until you put a finish on it. Cherry can turn noticeably darker in as little as 30 minutes in direct sun. I saw a guy leave a saw blade on a sheet of cherry plywood one time during lunch and when he came back you could see the outline of the blade in the sheet.
I'm a very rigid planner, having it perfectly random is painful for me, so pardon me if it sounds like I'm over thinking it. What would be the widest and thinnest boards you would use? An assortment of 3.5", 4.5", 5.5", and 7.5"? I feel like 2.5" boards are too thin an would be annoying to work with since it will take a lot of these boards to make up the entire table (3.5" may be pushing it). Any downside to using 9.5" boards?

What do you guys think?
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post #8 of 11 Old 08-16-2016, 12:44 PM
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Red face

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Originally Posted by OakTableN00b View Post
I'm a very rigid planner, having it perfectly random is painful for me, so pardon me if it sounds like I'm over thinking it. What would be the widest and thinnest boards you would use? An assortment of 3.5", 4.5", 5.5", and 7.5"? I feel like 2.5" boards are too thin an would be annoying to work with since it will take a lot of these boards to make up the entire table (3.5" may be pushing it). Any downside to using 9.5" boards?

What do you guys think?
Stay with your original plan in your first post. That will be fine.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it over?
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post #9 of 11 Old 08-16-2016, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by OakTableN00b View Post
I'm a very rigid planner, having it perfectly random is painful for me, so pardon me if it sounds like I'm over thinking it. What would be the widest and thinnest boards you would use? An assortment of 3.5", 4.5", 5.5", and 7.5"? I feel like 2.5" boards are too thin an would be annoying to work with since it will take a lot of these boards to make up the entire table (3.5" may be pushing it). Any downside to using 9.5" boards?

What do you guys think?
Any assortment of 3 to 4 inches difference would be good.

George
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post #10 of 11 Old 08-16-2016, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OakTableN00b View Post
I'm a very rigid planner, having it perfectly random is painful for me, so pardon me if it sounds like I'm over thinking it. What would be the widest and thinnest boards you would use? An assortment of 3.5", 4.5", 5.5", and 7.5"? I feel like 2.5" boards are too thin an would be annoying to work with since it will take a lot of these boards to make up the entire table (3.5" may be pushing it). Any downside to using 9.5" boards?

What do you guys think?
The width of the boards isn't so important, in fact using more narrow boards usually makes for a more stable top than wide ones. Still you can't just glue them together at random you need to alternate the end grain and select boards for grain and color and glue them together book matched to where the grain of one board seems to flow into the one next to it.

As far as thickness if you are making a traditional table then 3/4" is an appropriate thickness for the top. Usually on a farm type table the tops run 1 1/4" to 1 3/4" thick. It just depends on the design.
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post #11 of 11 Old 08-23-2016, 06:28 AM
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Just use whatever is readily available.
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