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Lovegasoline 09-26-2015 06:37 PM

Difficult Sanding Challenge ... Any Ideas?
 
3 Attachment(s)
I'm making a kitchen shelf to store glass pot lids made of hard maple.
The lids will be stored on end in routed grooves (the router bit I used is 1/2" in diameter and I think is called a cove bit). I don't have a plunge router and it's been long time since I used this bit ... instead of going in 1/8" or so passes, I did each groove in one shot of almost 1/2" deep. Yes I did.

I lingered a bit to long at the beginning and end of each stroke and ended up burning the wood. See attached pics.

I screwed the routing up ... in fact, the bit took such a strain it started creeping out of the collet and went deeper into the the wood than the depth I set it to. I had to use wood filler to fill those errors. Anyway, a bit of a fiasco on many counts. I don't want to do this piece over and I think I can salvage it to the degree that where it will be located above the stove it will still pass general muster.

So, I've been sitting on this thing for a while, tried sanding it by hand, tried using a Dremel with a sort of rubberised grit attachment (not spherical but odd conical shape) but it wasn't really designed for sanding wood.

Anyway, I want to put this project behind me, remove the dark burn marks off the end of the grooves, put some finish on it and install it.

Does anyone have a good suggestion on how to sand the end of these grooves?

Thanks a bunch guys!

epicfail48 09-26-2015 07:19 PM

Dunno bout sanding, but you could take a hacksaw blade and grind a curve on the end, use it as a scraper

hwebb99 09-26-2015 08:27 PM

828 Attachment(s)
Why don't you just lower the bit 1/32 more and recut it?

Lovegasoline 09-26-2015 10:41 PM

Setting up a guide for all three cuts and struts/stops will be a huge PITA.
Looking for an easy sanding solution. Is there any type of ball-end sander?

was2ndlast 09-27-2015 01:51 AM

I would imagine you could find a sanding ball type attachment for the Dremel...or attach the router bit to your drill and do a couple light turns...I've never tried it myself but I probably would if I needed to and could avoid sanding ☺

epicfail48 09-27-2015 02:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hwebb99 (Post 1115322)
Why don't you just lower the bit 1/32 more and recut it?

^This guy. Sometimes the best way to fix a mistake is to start over after all

Lovegasoline 09-28-2015 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by was2ndlast (Post 1115562)
I would imagine you could find a sanding ball type attachment for the Dremel...or attach the router bit to your drill and do a couple light turns...I've never tried it myself but I probably would if I needed to and could avoid sanding ☺

This is an interesting idea and worth a try.

Lovegasoline 09-28-2015 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by epicfail48 (Post 1115570)
^This guy. Sometimes the best way to fix a mistake is to start over after all

Agreed.
However, in this instance, due to the location where it will be mounted and its function, it's worth it to try to find a quick &/or dirty &/or clever way to fix it.

Any more clever suggestions anyone?

NickDIY 09-28-2015 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hwebb99 (Post 1115322)
Why don't you just lower the bit 1/32 more and recut it?

Quote:

Originally Posted by epicfail48 (Post 1115266)
Dunno bout sanding, but you could take a hacksaw blade and grind a curve on the end, use it as a scraper

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lovegasoline (Post 1115426)
Looking for an easy sanding solution. Is there any type of ball-end sander?

If you can't re-cut as hwebb99 said, then I'd definitely be leaning towards scraping. Sanding requires a lot of back and forth movement that you simply don't have the space for. If you choose any rotary method, IMO, you're going to be taking a lot of risk of damaging this piece worse than you already have.

I'd use a sharp carving gouge. You can pick em up cheap from Harbor Freight or ebay. Sharpen it up and it would work fine for this application. I have a small set that I use for stuff like this all the time.
http://www.woodcarvingworkshops.tv/M...=330&crop=true

TimPa 09-28-2015 01:18 PM

if not re-cut, a dremel is the best with 3/8" drum sander attached.

woodnthings 09-28-2015 02:10 PM

make a router plane
 
Using the rounded end of a hacksaw blade, make a two piece block that will secure the blade at the depth you need. Register the sides of the block against a straight edge to guide it in the cove/groove you have routed previously. It will look like this, but with a flat blade.

You could use a round bar or a bolt and just drill a single hole, rather than the two piece block. File a flat on the bolt side to keep it from twisting. Sharpen the end and give the cutting edge a "relief" back angle. It will take about 15 minutes to make and save you hours of sanding by hand.

At the ends of the groove you will have some hand sanding or use a Dremel.

http://www.felding.net/image/pic/rou...mallrouter.jpg

JCCLARK 09-29-2015 08:35 AM

I use short sections of dowel rods and wrap with sandpaper.

Maylar 09-29-2015 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCCLARK (Post 1117577)
I use short sections of dowel rods and wrap with sandpaper.

Yup. Round the ends of the dowel.

I did exactly the same mistake routing finger slots into the ends of a cutting board. My fingers were about bleeding by the time I sanded out the burn marks. Live & learn.

Pirate 09-29-2015 05:57 PM

I bought a used Porter Cable profile sander to sand some difficult parts on my boat years ago.
They have a profile that looks like it would work. You use adhesive backed sandpaper. I use adhesive discs and cut as needed.
Not having the sander, I might grind a scraper to the profile and scrape it.
Maybe a round nose gouge chisel.

shoot summ 09-29-2015 06:21 PM

It's funny to see that you are willing to spend so much time trying to sand and scrape this, when the right fix, that has been suggested multiple times, is to cut the grooves just a little deeper.

I could have knocked the new cuts out in about 15 minutes, done, no more searching for an "easy" fix...

Other than that, I would likely mask the slots, then lightly media blast them, would take the burning right out. But the time to mask and blast, and then the finish sanding after would be way beyond just cutting the grooves a little deeper.

You shouldn't need stops, just guides. When you are taking a small bite like this it's very easy to just touch the ends of the cut. Slow and steady, and just a lite touch.

Make sure your collett is tight, the bits don't creep if they are properly tightened.

EdS 09-30-2015 08:38 PM

Personally, I agree that the fastest and best way to fix the problem is with a slightly deeper router cut. Failing that, a very sharp half inch gouge chisel used carefully could clean up the burn marks, followed by some light sanding.

Al B Thayer 09-30-2015 09:49 PM

Haven't any of you guys ever used a cabinet scraper? They make them shaped like a French curve. This will remove the burn and leave it baby butt smooth.

Most likely the starting and stopping of the router cut will leave yet another burn mark. Also I would imagine the bit is "burned" too and won't leave a clean cut anyway.

Al B Thayer

Exactly. I got me a set of these....

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/150...raper-set.aspx

http://www.woodcraft.com/Images/products/400/150105.jpg

berdman 10-06-2015 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lovegasoline (Post 1115226)
I'm making a kitchen shelf to store glass pot lids made of hard maple.

What good are pot lids made out of hard maple?

cornelsteyn1 10-06-2015 01:33 PM

+1 To what Jim said. Use a dowel with coarse sandpaper wrapped around it. No need for special tools or techniques

Ant 10-06-2015 01:43 PM

I would not do it myself, but paint would resolve the discoloration. I have a Dremel and would use that. If I did not I might wrap a dowel with sand paper and put it into my hand drill or get a Dremel sanding attachment and put it into a drill.


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