Diagnosing drawers - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 17 Old 07-05-2017, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Diagnosing drawers

I'm working on some garage cabinets, and I've made drawers that ride on ball bearing drawer slides.

The slides are mounted directly to the sides of the cabinet.

I'm having a problem where one side of the drawers (oddly always the same side) won't shut 100% of the way.

Sometimes it's only by 1/16th.. sometimes up to 1/4.. and I'm trying to gather an idea of what's causing the issue and how to adjust it.

I've attached a photo (sideways) and I have a short video I'm working at putting on line here in a sec. The other side closes all the way.. but this has happened on like 6 drawers now.. starting to think I'm the problem
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post #2 of 17 Old 07-05-2017, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 17 Old 07-05-2017, 05:04 PM
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Your cabinet isn't exactly square. It would be so much easier when you make a cabinet to use a 2"wide faceframe on the cabinet. That would leave enough clearance between the drawer box and the cabinet side to install it a little crooked so the front pulls up flush.

From where you are if you have a belt sander grind about 1/16" off that end of the drawer box so the drawer front fits flush. You more or less make the drawer box a little out of square to match the cabinet. You could also put a shem between the drawer box and the drawer front on the opposite side but it doesn't look too pretty.
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post #4 of 17 Old 07-05-2017, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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also the drawer box is pretty tight to the slides.. it's not binding, but it's a tight fit, not a looose fit.
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post #5 of 17 Old 07-05-2017, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Steve Neul View Post
Your cabinet isn't exactly square. It would be so much easier when you make a cabinet to use a 2"wide faceframe on the cabinet. That would leave enough clearance between the drawer box and the cabinet side to install it a little crooked so the front pulls up flush.

From where you are if you have a belt sander grind about 1/16" off that end of the drawer box so the drawer front fits flush. You more or less make the drawer box a little out of square to match the cabinet. You could also put a shem between the drawer box and the drawer front on the opposite side but it doesn't look too pretty.
One thing is for sure, I threw the cabinet together quite roughly and quickly... i didn't lend much attention to how square it was...

so you're saying if I used a face frame and clips at the back of the slides, I could then move the rear of the slide side to side without worrying a care in the world about the cabinet sides...
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post #6 of 17 Old 07-05-2017, 05:51 PM
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One thing is for sure, I threw the cabinet together quite roughly and quickly... i didn't lend much attention to how square it was...

so you're saying if I used a face frame and clips at the back of the slides, I could then move the rear of the slide side to side without worrying a care in the world about the cabinet sides...
Basically yes, only I don't like the rear clips. It causes you to make the drawer box less in depth. Instead I make a left hand and a right hand version of this and nail to the back of the faceframe out of 1/2" plywood with a 3/4"x3/4" piece of wood at the back to nail to a hanger strip when the drawer boxes are being installed.
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post #7 of 17 Old 07-05-2017, 06:33 PM
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You might want to check your drawer for square also, if it is out of square the drawer will act as you described also. If your drawer is tight, chances are your drawer is slightly over sized or cabinet under sized. You can give some slack by running one of the drawer sides through a table saw or sand it down a little where the slide goes.

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post #8 of 17 Old 07-05-2017, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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likely the cabinet. I was really careful on the drawer when putting them together.
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post #9 of 17 Old 07-05-2017, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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and so, for my knowledge, in looking at the way this drawer is behaving, not closing on the right.. would I adjust the right hand slides to the left at the rear of the slide?
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post #10 of 17 Old 07-05-2017, 07:38 PM
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and so, for my knowledge, in looking at the way this drawer is behaving, not closing on the right.. would I adjust the right hand slides to the left at the rear of the slide?
Yes.

The system I showed you the drawer mounts are fastened to the front of the cabinet and left loose in the back. You go ahead and make the drawer box and put the front on it. Then when you install the drawer you slide it all the way in and stand behind the cabinet and adjust the drawer angle until it fits the front and then nail the mounts through the back of the cabinet. Sometimes also when you install a cabinet the cabinet will conform to the wall making the drawer fit badly again. At that time you can take a hammer and adjust the drawer left, right, up or down until it fits good again.
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post #11 of 17 Old 07-06-2017, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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Yes.

The system I showed you the drawer mounts are fastened to the front of the cabinet and left loose in the back. You go ahead and make the drawer box and put the front on it. Then when you install the drawer you slide it all the way in and stand behind the cabinet and adjust the drawer angle until it fits the front and then nail the mounts through the back of the cabinet. Sometimes also when you install a cabinet the cabinet will conform to the wall making the drawer fit badly again. At that time you can take a hammer and adjust the drawer left, right, up or down until it fits good again.
if you had any photos of how you do this, I'd be interested in seeing them.

On this project here, it's almost too late.. I bridged several base cabinets with a top, and a miter saw is in the middle now.. moving it out would be difficult, and there is no back..
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post #12 of 17 Old 07-06-2017, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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OR I could install a face frame, and cut the draw down to be less wide, and reinstall the slides somehow.. I'm not sure it';s worth the effort.. I might not even put drawer faces on and save the wood for something else...

But on other projects, I would really like to develop a method or two of getting it absolutely right.
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post #13 of 17 Old 07-06-2017, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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also, I measured.. there is about an 1/8 inch difference from the front to the back
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post #14 of 17 Old 07-06-2017, 12:32 PM
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if you had any photos of how you do this, I'd be interested in seeing them.

On this project here, it's almost too late.. I bridged several base cabinets with a top, and a miter saw is in the middle now.. moving it out would be difficult, and there is no back..
This is the only cabinet I have in my shop right now with this drawer system. It was a cabinet I took out of someone's house and was built by some other company.
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post #15 of 17 Old 07-06-2017, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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This is the only cabinet I have in my shop right now with this drawer system. It was a cabinet I took out of someone's house and was built by some other company.
I see, ok that's exactly what I thought you meant.

I might could shim the back of these particular drawer slides or something.. or I could just live with it and consider it a reminder for all time.

to my credit, another bank of 4 drawers went in perfect, not near as a wide a cabinet though..
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post #16 of 17 Old 07-06-2017, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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and you said you nail that in from the back? How do you go about holding it in place while you're behind the cabinet?
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post #17 of 17 Old 07-06-2017, 03:22 PM
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and you said you nail that in from the back? How do you go about holding it in place while you're behind the cabinet?
You make the bracket for the hardware to fit a little snug between the faceframe and the hanger in the back so it stays pretty much where you put it. Then you hold the front of the drawer flush with the face of the cabinet and adjust the bracket as needed and shoot a single nail in each bracket. Then you let go of the drawer and slide it in and out to insure it fits well and finish nailing it.
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