Dewalt 734 cutter head bump jamming me up - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 09-26-2020, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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Dewalt 734 cutter head bump jamming me up

So I picked up a planer, DW734 about a month ago. Love it but on the infeed side there's a tab? that sticks down and catches the wood. It also makes taking off a 16th or more impossible though this should chew up an eighth. I've watched videos where it didn't seem like this was present on their machines and this doesn't seem to be anything but a mistake.
Now I did get this from a second hand retailer, it was sealed in a brand new box but was there an issue that Dewalt resolved or redesigned, is it a fluke defective machine, WTH is going on here...

I'm all for 5 seconds and my grinder fixing it forever but want to know what gives before I go drastic.

TIA
Akr
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post #2 of 14 Old 09-26-2020, 02:53 PM
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mine has a similar gadget - it gives you an inkling of how deep the cut is set.
push up on the tab - you should see the little red flag move up/down.


on my planer it slides up as the work pc feeds in . . . no problem - not looked, could be a wheel.
I'd crank up the cutter assemble and see it the thing 'looks right'
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post #3 of 14 Old 09-26-2020, 03:04 PM
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I had a 733. I don't recall the tab that you speak of. The only difference between the 733 and 734 that I am aware of is the 734 uses 3 cutter head blades while the 733 uses only 2. I know that after trying once and listening to the planer struggle I would not attempt to hog a full 1/8 off in a single pass. I tried to limit my removal passes to 1/32 or less. By letting the head keep spinning during passes the cutters cool down. I have been told that heat is a significant factor dulling the cutters.

Rich
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post #4 of 14 Old 09-26-2020, 03:26 PM
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Page 4/5 in the owners manual?

Detail number 47 in the drawing should be able to freely move. Maybe a burr or something is causing it to not move freely? Should be easy to disassemble inspect and correct. Or if it can't be made to function, just take it off and leave it off.


OPTION (B)

Are you referring to the protrusion of the casting along it's edge? \If so, that protrusion appears to be a solid part of the casting. My best "guess" is that is part of the "sprue", which is where the molten metal is poured into the mold. If that is indeed the case, then no it should not be there. The sprue should have been removed, ground flush, cleaned up and radiused along with the rest of the edge.
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Take care,
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Last edited by Dave McCann; 09-26-2020 at 03:46 PM.
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post #5 of 14 Old 09-26-2020, 04:27 PM
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I have a DW735, which is similar, but not the same.

I would not recommend grinding anything off until long after you have completed all of the careful troubleshooting you can do first. ... and then think about it some more before grinding.
-> In my opinion, something isn't right, and grinding isn't the fix.

Here are some basic questions:

* With the planer unplugged, can you use your hand to raise and lower the material removal bar to move the red material removal gauge needle all the way between 0 and 1/8 inch? Is the material removal bar stuck? Is the material removal gauge needle stuck? Could there be sawdust or chips interfering with the bar or needle?

* Is the material removal gauge needle accurate? When you lower the planer and the needle says it will take off 1/32 or 1/16 inch, is the actual measurement "in the ballpark"? Use calipers to check the thickness before and after planing. Try a small cut. Also try a large cut where the board is near the top of the opening, but not scraping that part that hangs down a little. How much is actually removed?

* Are the correct blades installed? Are they genuine DeWalt blades or could they be aftermarket blades that might be the wrong dimension? Have the edges been ground down or resharpened to make them less "tall" than new blades? (Note: There is nothing wrong with aftermarket blades, as long as they match the specs of the originals.)

* When you open the top to inspect the blades, does everything look right inside the planer?

* Are you remembering to lock and unlock the planer before making height adjustments? (Note, it applies to the DW734, but not the DW735.)
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post #6 of 14 Old 09-27-2020, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, thanks for the feedback. I'm not looking to grind anything before I know thats the right course. It is not the depth gauge but is part of the casting so it isnt mobil nor should it be. The depth gauge reads accurately it just won't allow anything more than 1/16th depth cause this tab is in the way. It isnt sprue from casting, its machined clean, i just cant see why its there...
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post #7 of 14 Old 09-27-2020, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a closer pic, the area between the black hash marks with the red arrow is .14" lower than the rest of the casting. It has sharp corners so it wasn't a mold issue or fluke thing but I havent seen another 734 with it...
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post #8 of 14 Old 09-27-2020, 09:44 PM
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That little tab is on my DW734. If you're catching the wood on it, you're trying to take off too much. It doesn't touch the wood until you're over 1/16". That's a pretty aggressive cut for a finish planer.
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post #9 of 14 Old 09-28-2020, 03:42 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanchez View Post
That little tab is on my DW734. If you're catching the wood on it, you're trying to take off too much. It doesn't touch the wood until you're over 1/16". That's a pretty aggressive cut for a finish planer.
Well yes, and its not as much that I'm trying to take and eigth in one shot but 1. Why say the max cut is 1/8 but then jam it up at a16th and 2. most of what I work with is reclaimed wood and at times it may feed at 3/64 but swell to a full 3/32 which turns into a mess of throwing the lock off and raising the head just to get it to finish feeding. I can do that but short of that tab I would be able to let it go and while it will dog that last foot it will cut.
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post #10 of 14 Old 09-28-2020, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanchez View Post
That little tab is on my DW734. If you're catching the wood on it, you're trying to take off too much. It doesn't touch the wood until you're over 1/16". That's a pretty aggressive cut for a finish planer.
My 2Ę, having recently given my 16 year old 735 its routine once-over -- reconditioning, belt and blade changes, etc. -- I seldom if ever attempt a 1/16 of an inch pass, and would NEVER under any circumstances consider taking off an 1/8" in a single pass. You always want to ease into your stock to see how it handles the setting and go from there. I generally stay a hair under 1/32", less if necessary. Like you said, it's a finish planer. Not even an $8000 Powermatic with a helical head recommends exceeding a maximum pass of 3/16".
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post #11 of 14 Old 09-28-2020, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexKitner View Post
Here is a closer pic, the area between the black hash marks with the red arrow is .14" lower than the rest of the casting. It has sharp corners so it wasn't a mold issue or fluke thing but I havent seen another 734 with it...
When that tab catches the wood... it is telling you the bottom side of the wood is not flat... or the wood is thicker in that area of the board. The planer references off of the bottom of the board, so when the board gets thicker in the middle of a pass it has to take more material off the top to compensate... and in this case could be too much. That is why a board should be jointed first before using a thickness planer. If you are planning a rough board (not jointed), you may find it helpful to set the planer to pull the wood with a non cut setting at first and slowly sneak up gradually to a full slice, flipping the board as you this. Also pay attention to the grain direction as you do this, you want the grain direction from the top of the board to slope downward toward the planer as it enters the planer. That tab is suppose to be there by the way.

Gary

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post #12 of 14 Old 09-28-2020, 04:11 PM
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I don't use reclaimed, but I do start most everything with rough sawn 4/4 and up.
some of it is bumpy.
some times there's a bit of a cupping.


once upon a time I carelessly got too aggressive on the first pass - ran into some lumps and bumps - and it was very not good.
choking/stalling/bogging . . .


so that little tab may save you a lot of grief - always check for cupping - that will get you into 'too heavy a cut' trouble faster than anything else.


running an industrial strength machine with a 3,000 hp drive, not so important.
machines for the home shop - much more important.
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post #13 of 14 Old 10-01-2020, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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Unfortunately with this wood I have to leave the weathered side untouched as it has all the character. That occasionally means working in nonstandard ways like planing the cupped side instead of to bow like normal. I dont take much more than a 16th but where it really gets me is when there is uneven thickness that rides just high enough to catch mid run or when im maybe taking a little thicker cut thats only in a small width of the board. Im also really using it in this application for pure material removal so I can even out different thicknesses to make jointing easier or for tables that don't have a border edge and needs boards of even thickness.
Guess I'll leave it alone for now, just odd cause I've watched several videos of this model just to see if its there and it doesnt seem like it is. And the advertised depth of cut is 1/8 which im not trying to do but odd that it can't be done...
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post #14 of 14 Old 10-01-2020, 07:12 PM
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On my makita thickness planer, they have recommended depths of cut depending on the board width. While it advertises 1/8", I doubt that was for the entire 12.5" in width.

Tim
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