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Desk flat oak top

2K views 20 replies 8 participants last post by  mmwood_1 
#1 ·
Hi everybody,

I have almost finished my first relatively large (to me) desk build for my office. Out of milled oak from a few trees i dropped in my backyard. Its not perfect by any means,Here are some photos.

But i have some dips and valleys on the top that i just cannot correct with sander.

I want to try a hand plane.
I was wondering if the grizzly 14" smoothing plane would top these raised areas off, in order for me to sand again even.

I don't want to spend alot on the tool since i will be experimenting, but i found one online for about $40.

Will this help me or would it be a waste of money?

Thanks!
 

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#2 · (Edited)
You could try a hand plane .....

The grain direction is crosswise to the length, so you'd end up planing across the width rather than down the length. Sanding does NOT produce tearout, but planing may if you aren't grain direction savy. Even through you plane in the correct direction, it may be up hill into the grain, rather than downhill with the grain, which will then tear out. Planing across the grain will help level it easier and faster, but it may take more work to remove any planing marks. Very thin shavings is the way to go.

I used a hand plane to flatten this door made of pressure treated wood:
https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/door-build-2-xs-1-4-ply-55717/






There's no way to tell what will work best, you'll just have to try it.... very cautiously! :vs_cool:
 
#3 ·
You would want to use a #6 or 7 for flattening.

The way to flatten a large panel is start out going 45° across the grain in one direction, then the other, then straight across. Using a straight edge and winding sticks to check for flatness and twist. I often just use the corner of the plane sole.

Once you're satisifed, you can move to final planing/sanding.

A word of caution: I do not recommend smooth planing the top unless you've oriented all the boards grain direction the same otherwise you'll probably be dealing with tearout.

In your situation, I suggest skipping the smooth plane & going straight to sanding.

Whole 'nother topic, but Grizzly hand planes are not a recognized quality brand. If you want new, IMO WoodRiver is an excellent value, or you can try finding an older Stanley.
 
#6 ·
I have a small cheaper block plane that i will try later tonight with small strokes.
See how that goes.
I dont want to mess it up but i want to learn how to use these tools.
Just for those 2 high sitting boards. Im not talking much you can't tell by looking but you run your hand across and feel the waves in these two boards.
 
#7 ·
A smaller plane will follow the irregularities ....

I have a small cheaper block plane that i will try later tonight with small strokes.
See how that goes.
I don't want to mess it up but i want to learn how to use these tools.
Just for those 2 high sitting boards. I'm not talking much you can't tell by looking but you run your hand across and feel the waves in these two boards.

Use a removable marker and rub it on the high spots. Find the high spots using a long straight edge. A plane with a longer sole will bridge the high spots and remove them rather than following them. This is somewhat advanced for a beginner starting out, but as long as you are aware of the grain direction, you should be fine.

:vs_cool:
 
#10 ·
When i first started with it it was tough going, but as soon as i got a couple of passes under its belt it seemed to become smoother. I don't know why. Im sure i can try to flatten the bottom or sharpen the blade more, but i don't have those kind of stones.
Plus the plane is brand new, i bought it about 2 weeks ago, tried it and said no way, let it sit until today then got up the courage to try it again, because the waves on the top of the desk were really bugging me.

In my mind the top was either going to get smooth or i was going to wreck the top.
 
#11 ·
Bill, I suggest you look at Paul Sellers Videos on sharpening a plane. A cabinet scraper plane can deal with the wild grain. Doing a desk top that size may require a re sharpen of your plane iron several times and is well worth doing for a pristine shaving. Set your plane very shallow and listen as you plane... you will hear the plane as it shaves down the high spots. Set your frog for a narrow opening when taking whisper shavings. Use the rag in a can (Paul Sellers) or wax on the sole of the plane to lessen friction as necessary. Almost all difficulties with a hand plane are because of improper sharpening... keep that in mind always!
 
#13 ·
Looks great. A little character often adds a lot to Oak. It also says it's home made. So if you don't have a 40" wide table belt sander you get a little dip or rise from time to time.

How long did you air dry the oak for? Did you move it inside weeks before you machined it?

Looks great. A nice table that will last a life time.

Mark Jones
 
#17 ·
Thanks mark.

After i cut the trees they sat in log form for a year outside. I had them milled and then they sat about 5-6 more months in a barn. Now they are in my garage and have been there about 4 months.
After i planed them a little i let them sit a few days then flattened, then let them sit again, then finished them.
 
#16 ·
How deep are we talking about that you cant get out with sanding? sometimes, especially if using a orbital sander you end up making depressions to get others out and on and on.

I would avoid going to the plane just yet. the project looks near completion and if you're not 100% confident in finishing it with a plane then your gunna kick yourself for chunking out pieces and having more work to finish it.

Heres what I would do:

1.zig zag pencil marks all over for high/low spot reference
2.take a really flat board material, like a 4" x 48" strip of Melanie or mdf, a 2x4 or other kinda natural board wont be flat enough, and double side tape some coarse sand paper to the entire underside.
3.kinda how concrete workers screen the concrete, you work the sandpaper board back and forth. the flat strip of melamine will reveal the low spots and take down the high spots.

its worked for me in the past in a similar situation. Just make sure that 4" strip doesn't flex and don't press down, let it slide over and it should get it flat.
 
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