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post #1 of 51 Old 10-21-2012, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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Deck

Hi,

I'm trying to build a deck and using 2x6 hangers with 2x6 stringers. However the 2x6's are sitting up above the frame so when we go to nail the decking down there will be a hump in the middle. Why is the wood sitting up from the hanger? It
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post #2 of 51 Old 10-21-2012, 05:16 PM
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The trick is to nail it together first and then use your metal connectors. Another way is to nail your connectors to the ends of your wood first and then when you joint o the side you adjust the height so they are even across the top.

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post #3 of 51 Old 10-21-2012, 05:24 PM
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Another potential reason is that the boards are saturated from the pressure treatment process and have expanded.

Not fun to work around. If they are temporarily expanded they will shrink as they dry out, but then something will not fit either now, or later.
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post #4 of 51 Old 10-21-2012, 08:41 PM
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Use a different hanger. Dimensional lumber, especially PT are never the same widths, never.

You forgot half your nails in those hangers, which are not really designed for that application.
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post #5 of 51 Old 10-21-2012, 09:15 PM
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I have worked in the construction industry for about 25 yrs. I have worked with rough sawn, planed all round, seasoned, unseasoned, recycled, pressure treated and various mixed combinations of all mentioned.

In my experience if you set all your top edges level at assembly there should be little effect on the level of your decking over time. Your construction method is one I would only use if there is significant reason to do so.

Using Australian terminology we have joists and bearers. What you call stringers I imagine are our joists, this is what the decking nails to. What you call a hanger we call bearers - the joist are held up by these. Cutting joists between bearers would typically only be done if there is limited ground clearance or if you wanted the under side to be flat for fixing a ceiling too.

In my humble opinion you would have a much stronger deck if your joists / stringers ran over top of your bearers / hangers. Then all you do is either pack the joists level or the preferred method is to notch a little out of the joists / stringers so they are all level across the top. Any shrinkage or movement will have minimal impact on your decking.

If you you stick with your current method I would suggest a smaller metal bracket that does not need to be bent over the top of your timber or trim it with tin snips so as to avoid other lumps and bumps that will effect your decking.

Bearer sizes typically used in Australia are 4 x 3 and will span 4 to 6 feet depending on stress grade of timber and frequency of bearers. If you want a larger span between points of support then larger timber would be used.

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Last edited by DaveTTC; 10-21-2012 at 09:25 PM.
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post #6 of 51 Old 10-21-2012, 09:44 PM
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post #7 of 51 Old 10-21-2012, 09:58 PM
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Measure your framing material. I bet some of it is 5 1/2" wide and some of it is 5 5/8" or more wide. You may have to either rip the framing to consistant width or notch the end of the framing to let the excess hang down.

Last edited by Steve Neul; 10-21-2012 at 10:02 PM.
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post #8 of 51 Old 10-22-2012, 07:34 AM
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That is the only type of hanger that I have ever seen used in this type of application.

I think the type of hanger used by the original poster is typically used in a different application.

George
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post #9 of 51 Old 10-22-2012, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeC

That is the only type of hanger that I have ever seen used in this type of application.

I think the type of hanger used by the original poster is typically used in a different application.

George
+1 I agree the joist hanger in the link is the one to use

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post #10 of 51 Old 10-22-2012, 07:58 AM
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I don't like the hangers either but if the OP has already purchased them I would continue to use them and make the wood fit it. Regardless of which hanger is used I would encourage the OP to nail the hangers to the face of the joists instead of just the top. The hangers help hold the joint together, not just to support it and keep the board from slipping down.
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post #11 of 51 Old 10-22-2012, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for your time and comments. I am an unexperienced do-it-yourself-er :) and you all make these projects doable for me! I cannot thank you enough!! Going to return the hangers I have and purchase those recommended that will nail to the face of the stringers.

Thank you!
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post #12 of 51 Old 10-22-2012, 08:34 AM
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If you can't exchange them or take them back, just cut off the top tab, and drill more mounting holes.





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post #13 of 51 Old 10-22-2012, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you cabinetman! - will do :)
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post #14 of 51 Old 10-22-2012, 02:10 PM
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if you are dealing with a inspection department do not cut the joist hangers as recomended above. it will not pass, you will be better off with new joist hangers. nail all your frame together first then put on your joist hangers.
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post #15 of 51 Old 10-22-2012, 05:37 PM
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If you plan to to just change the brackets you can just plane down the high points on your joists. It would only take a few minutes if the timber is nailed together all ready.

If you don't have a plane it is a very quick job if you know someone with one.

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post #16 of 51 Old 10-22-2012, 09:59 PM
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renee....here's a way around the minor dimensional differences in the width of PT lumber in deck construction. when you are ready to set a joist, attach a 1' piece of scrap 2x4 to the 1.5" edge of the joist so that the scrap extends 1.5" beyond the end of the joist. rest that scrap overhang on the ledger or beam and THEN attach the face mounted hangers to the ledger and the joist. since the bottom of the scrap is also the top of the joist, it aligns the joist perfectly with any adjoining structural members to which it is attached. any difference in the width of the joist is at the edge of the joist opposite the underside of the decking.

BTW, 2x6 is not terribly large for structural members. how much distance are those 2x6s spanning?

there's a solution to every problem.....you just have to be willing to find it.
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post #17 of 51 Old 10-23-2012, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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They are 12' spans; too large? Should I cut in half at 6' and brace?
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post #18 of 51 Old 10-23-2012, 11:03 AM
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What is your joist spacing...16", 24"? General ROT (rule of thumb) is that you can span 1 foot for every inch of joist depth. In that case, you should only span 6 feet. In the decks I've built, I personally don't like to use anything less than 2x8s, but I tend to go overkill. In fact, the first deck I built I used 2x10 joists. Might be overkill but that was one stout deck. While 2x6s may technically work, you will likely feel some bounce to the deck, unless you get the span down to about 6 feet.

Here is a link to an online calculator. Select the type of wood you are using and the other variables.

http://www.awc.org/calculators/span/...rcalcstyle.asp

Another link from the same site about building decks: http://www.awc.org/publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf

And yet another tool: http://www.ideasfordeckdesigns.com/c...calculator.php

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post #19 of 51 Old 10-23-2012, 12:13 PM
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I've learned - by making expensive mistakes haha- to ask questions FIRST if unsure, THEN buy materials and plan my attack. I - like most other guys who have built a couple two tree decks - would have done it much different.
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post #20 of 51 Old 10-23-2012, 12:45 PM
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12 foot is way to much for a 2x6 to span. you may want to post some pics of what you have framed already. that way you can get some advice on what may or may not work. it is easier to fix it now rather than after you have decked the whole thing.
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