Dado blade recommendation - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
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post #21 of 34 Old 02-11-2018, 09:50 AM
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[...] I don't recommend cutting dados on a radial arm saw, either. :-)
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Really, I find cutting dados one of the best uses for a radial arm saw.
I was young at the time, and it was scary. We made a lot of half-lap joints for cabinet door frames. The exposed dado blade, the way the blade wobbled, that powerful motor, and my inexperience with power tools all made for a scary cut. I lived through it without serious injury. We didn't have a table saw at the time, only the radial arm saw that belonged to my roommate.

There are advantages - you see the dado cut as you make it on a radial arm saw. On a table saw, the cut is hidden until after you are done.
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post #22 of 34 Old 02-11-2018, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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This is a 1.2" square piece of wood. The cut depth is .600 on each side. I want to know if It's possible to make this cut in one pass (4 passes total) I know it would probably be a little on the hairy side and I will have this square clamped down to a cross cut sled. My table saw is a delta unisaw and it is not direct drive.

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post #23 of 34 Old 02-11-2018, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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Also this is a tapered cut, it feathers out to basically nothing (shown in the picture) the other end of the blank is barely cut at all so I still have plenty to grip on to.

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post #24 of 34 Old 02-11-2018, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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One more thing, I use a milling machine to make these cuts. Certain woods of course are more fragile than others and when I feather out the ends they have a tendency to snap do to the side cutting pressure. Figured a table saw would be tons better for this.

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post #25 of 34 Old 02-11-2018, 10:42 AM
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Wouldn't try this on anything but a very dense, close grained wood, maybe even one that has been chemically reinforced. Also vibration of the work piece is going to be very, very difficult once a couple of cuts are made. I have no idea how to stabilize the workpiece past the cutter head.

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post #26 of 34 Old 02-11-2018, 10:44 AM
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You'll want to make sure your saw has a long enough arbor for a 7/8 dado blade set. Some saws (direct drive saws mostly) don't have a long enough arbor to accept a full dado set. You'll also want to make or purchase an insert plate for your particular saw.
About those insert plates..some are for 8" sets, some for 6".. I inadvertently ran my 8" set into my 6" plate..no serious harm, but did spook me so I use shop made wooden inserts just because I don't really enjoy little shards of steel flying in and around my eyeballs.. I guess I'm just weird that way, not that I'm weird in other ways.. Well, maybe one or two or a million other ways..

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post #27 of 34 Old 02-11-2018, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Hopefully this helps with a visual.

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post #28 of 34 Old 02-11-2018, 01:16 PM
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I lost two fingers in 1985 using a dado set on a table saw. What do you need to know?
I can't imagine that kind of injury. If you don't mind explain the circumstances I would like to understand what happened.

I own the 6" Freud stack set and it has worked well for me and the few friends I've lent it to.
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post #29 of 34 Old 02-11-2018, 01:22 PM
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I can't imagine that kind of injury. If you don't mind explain the circumstances I would like to understand what happened.

I own the 6" Freud stack set and it has worked well for me and the few friends I've lent it to.
I was told to do something on a table saw that i was not experienced to do. I blame the owner and so did the other employees. 34 years later I don't do anything that resembles incorrect, but accidents still happen.
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post #30 of 34 Old 02-11-2018, 01:49 PM
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Hopefully this helps with a visual.

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Do it on a table saw with dado blade or router in a table with straight bit.

Make a carriage to hold the material at an angle, much like you would to cut a taper, think I would mount the stock so it is angled vertically rather than horizontal so I could run the carriage against the fence. Set fence for final side distance to keep remaining stock and make several passes turning and lowering in steps until you reach a stop on carriage for final pass. Probably want something to keep carriage tight to fence on each pass, either a hook mechanism to fence or a side guide, roller or fingers.

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post #31 of 34 Old 02-11-2018, 02:15 PM
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You'll want to make sure your saw has a long enough arbor for a 7/8 dado blade set. Some saws (direct drive saws mostly) don't have a long enough arbor to accept a full dado set. You'll also want to make or purchase an insert plate for your particular saw.
My Delta tablesaw uses a cup-shaped washer on the arbor, when using a dado set I use a 5/8" flat washer instead.
You can also make zero clearance insert plates for the dado sizes you most often use.

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post #32 of 34 Old 02-11-2018, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Maintenance Man View Post
You'll want to make sure your saw has a long enough arbor for a 7/8 dado blade set. Some saws (direct drive saws mostly) don't have a long enough arbor to accept a full dado set. You'll also want to make or purchase an insert plate for your particular saw.
They did not make the arbor short just to save material, the width of dado it will accommodate is the max for the motor, you may get away with cheating on short runs, but you could burn out the motor on long runs.

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post #33 of 34 Old 02-11-2018, 10:23 PM
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I was told to do something on a table saw that i was not experienced to do.
What were you told to do?

How did you do it then?

How would you do it today?
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post #34 of 34 Old 02-11-2018, 10:52 PM
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What were you told to do?

How did you do it then?

How would you do it today?
Blind dado.

Table saw,,

Router
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