Cutting board... yikes... - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 08-02-2011, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Cutting board... yikes...

Glued up my first cutting board last night. Shoot, I guess in reality it's my first actual WW project.

Lessons learned:

1) I really should have made my cuts with a TS. I didn't have anything that could cut out 14in and ended up using a RAS twice per cut.... That made some issues (edit -- I am CLing the RAS and putting that money toward a benchtop TS)

2) I should have put more effort in the hand planing on the individual strips that needed it since they weren't square. I came out this morning and a few pieces had worked their way out of formation.... There are 1/8th inch ridges now that I have to plane out on both sides. That's 1/4in I'm losing.

3) Less glue. WAY less glue. I was told to apply liberally and I think they meant like Obama, not Ted Kennedy. I I'm glad I already have to take a chunk out, because that glue definitely got in the pores.

Overall, this board is going to end up being about 1/2 inch and of so-so quality... Definitely a great learning piece, but I'm a little disappointed. Oh well. I'll post pictures tomorrow of the glue-up and the "after planing" look to get some more advice from the people on here.

Curtis
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post #2 of 15 Old 08-02-2011, 01:12 PM
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Nothin like the ole trial and error to get it right the next time.

-Rob

I can look at the knot in a piece of wood until it frightens me. -William Blake
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post #3 of 15 Old 08-02-2011, 01:50 PM
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if you're going to get a bench top TS (why?!?), may I suggest building a workstation for it for rigidity and support? Even if it's a multi purpose workbench that has a removable top so that you can drop the TS in, you REALLY need a lot of support when working with a table saw. Check out MariahHolt's thread on the workstation that wraps around the table saw.

Ut Prosim
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post #4 of 15 Old 08-02-2011, 02:00 PM
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about the table saw look on craigslist for a emmerson made craftsmen contractor table saw they normaly go for under 150 and are great saw and a lot better than a benchtop saw

Last edited by Woodworkingkid; 08-03-2011 at 12:18 PM.
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post #5 of 15 Old 08-03-2011, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Just edited and updated with a photo before the glueup. I ended up sanding quite a bit of the unevenness away, but I was still disappointed with the results and should have waited for a planer.

I'm going to try to salvage this one - stay tuned
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post #6 of 15 Old 08-03-2011, 11:57 AM
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Trial and error is how you learn. The next one WILL be better.

Red

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post #7 of 15 Old 08-03-2011, 01:23 PM
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Rip thru the bad joints with your new TS and reglue. Plane to thickness, sand and finish. It's looks better them some of my first projects. It ain't that bad, keep at it your be putt'n out better stuff before you know it.
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post #8 of 15 Old 08-03-2011, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctwiggs1 View Post
Glued up my first cutting board last night. Shoot, I guess in reality it's my first actual WW project.

Lessons learned:

1) I really should have made my cuts with a TS. I didn't have anything that could cut out 14in and ended up using a RAS twice per cut.... That made some issues (edit -- I am CLing the RAS and putting that money toward a benchtop TS)

2) I should have put more effort in the hand planing on the individual strips that needed it since they weren't square. I came out this morning and a few pieces had worked their way out of formation.... There are 1/8th inch ridges now that I have to plane out on both sides. That's 1/4in I'm losing.

3) Less glue. WAY less glue. I was told to apply liberally and I think they meant like Obama, not Ted Kennedy. I I'm glad I already have to take a chunk out, because that glue definitely got in the pores.

Overall, this board is going to end up being about 1/2 inch and of so-so quality... Definitely a great learning piece, but I'm a little disappointed. Oh well. I'll post pictures tomorrow of the glue-up and the "after planing" look to get some more advice from the people on here.

Curtis
look's like you should have turned some of the thicher ends end for end and it would have been more square? My be that was the look you were after?
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post #9 of 15 Old 08-04-2011, 07:47 AM
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Grab a plane and square those puppies out and you'll be just fine. I'd honestly hold off on the CL thing... unless it's the only way you can afford a tablesaw. RAS may not be the most versatile tool but it can really come in handy, especially if you already have one.
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post #10 of 15 Old 08-04-2011, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBull View Post
Rip thru the bad joints with your new TS and reglue. Plane to thickness, sand and finish. It's looks better them some of my first projects. It ain't that bad, keep at it your be putt'n out better stuff before you know it.
Out of curiousity, could a person simply clamp the boards together before glue up and apply the same process even with the RAS? I am thinking the single pass of the blade through the adjoining boards would leave you with a well mated joint. Of course the clamps would have to have minimal pressure so as not to squeeze the blade during the cut, an advantage for doing it after glue up.
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post #11 of 15 Old 08-04-2011, 09:46 AM
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I was going to add that you might not want to CL that RAS yet. Properly set up, it's a great tool for crosscuts. Supplement it with a good used table saw like an Emerson/Sears mentioned above and you'll be making happier sawdust. (then a jointer, then a planer......)

Woodworking is a life-long learning experience. You're off to a good start.

Bill
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post #12 of 15 Old 08-04-2011, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by would View Post
Out of curiousity, could a person simply clamp the boards together before glue up and apply the same process even with the RAS? I am thinking the single pass of the blade through the adjoining boards would leave you with a well mated joint. Of course the clamps would have to have minimal pressure so as not to squeeze the blade during the cut, an advantage for doing it after glue up.
DO NOT CLAMP WHILE YOU ARE MAKING THE CUT! IMO this is an injury waiting to happen. You could use the RAS if it is set up properly. If it were me I'd use the TS, I know you said you didn't have one but you also said you were getting one so...., Thus the comment.
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post #13 of 15 Old 08-04-2011, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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I guess this all leads me to my next question -- what kind of blade would you buy for the RAS? I have a framing blade that refuses to cut a nice even cut, so it's always a two step process (cut then sand).

Thanks for all your input guys!

Curtis
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post #14 of 15 Old 08-04-2011, 12:37 PM
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There is good info on the forum about blades for the RAS. As I learned with my own it should have a negative hook angle. Look on eBay for Onsrud blades (search the forum fir the extensive thread on this). Also there is lots of info on the forum about aligning your RAS. They can be a great versatile tool in your shop.
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post #15 of 15 Old 08-04-2011, 12:45 PM
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For the RAS you want a negative hook angle blade so the saw won't dig in and come at you. In other words, the teeth slant slightly back instead of forward. Since you should be using it as a cross-cutting machine (ripping on a RAS generally is hazardous) you will want a lot of teeth on that blade for a smooth, splinter-free cut.

The 60 tooth Freud LU91 is a good example: http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU91R010-10-Inch-PermaShield-Coating/dp/B0000223IA/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1312475943&sr=1-4 I have one on my RAS and it leaves a near-polished cut and has a -5 degree hook angle.

Also, if you aren't doing this already, pull to cut, don't push.

I see blades on RAS's on Craigslist that are truly scary, including some that are on backwards!

Bill
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